Friday, August 20, 2010

Life is What Happens While You’re Making Other Plans 2X.

As my immediate crew already knows, Virago has overstayed her welcome in Costa Rica. It seems there is a new law dictating that a vessel visiting Costa Rica cannot get its 90 day Temporary Import Permit extended. There are a couple of ways to stay longer, but they involve having a contract with a marina that meets criteria set out by the Costa Rican government. Unfortunately for Virago, the Costa Rica Yacht Club doe not have such an arrangement with the authorities. In addition, her TIP has already expired. Some people are of the opinion that an exiting vessel need not provide its TIP when applying for an International Zarpe--the document that is required to enter the next country, in Virago’s case, Panama. Our friends Paul and Tamar on S/V Xanadu were required to present their TIP when they recently left CRYC. We expect to pay a fine and be required to leave CR. The net result is that I am here at CRYC preparing Virago for an early departure as early as next week.

On a lighter note, I had a wonderful experience on the trip down. I flew from SFO to San Jose, Costa Rica arriving at 5:22 AM. I had a reservation to take InterBus to CRYC in Puntarenas. The pickup point is a near by restaurant called Calalu where I planned to have breakfast. I told the driver that I wanted to have breakfast and he asked if I wanted an authentic Tico breakfast. When we saw that Calalu was not open yet, he told me that the cab company office is next door and that I could get breakfast there! There is no sign outside to indicate the existence of a small breakfast counter with a smiling woman named Sobeida behind the counter and a group of joking and laughing cabbies chowing down. 

Taxi Office Cafe 1 Taxi Office Cafe 2

Cabbies Chowing Down

Sobeida Slinging Hash

There are no menus here, but with a little help from an English speaking cabbie I was able to order. I had Gallo Pinto (a traditional rice and bean dish), scrambled eggs, fried plantains, and coffee for 2,000 colonies or a little less than four dollars.

Monday, July 12, 2010

Bahia del Sol to Puntarenas

This is text from Bill Eddy with photos added from various crew members.

Crew for this leg was: Paul Goss, Bill Eddy, Jim Labbe (as far as Bahia del Sol) and Harry Reppert.

Saturday 5/1 Bahia del Sol, El Salvador

Up at 7:00am to full tropical rain and an incredible 3k current past the hull in the estuary. Tides change 6-7’ in here each tide cycle. Took laundry to the resort office for $1 per lbs. Back tomorrow. Resort grounds are lush with 3 large colorful parrots near the entry area ponds. See pictures. Cultural Emersion Time. While Harry and Paul are on their computers, Jim and I walked across the resort property (1/2 mile from inner estuary to the sea shore across peninsula) to see the other ½ of the resort. More hotel bungalows with another pool, restaurants and a large beach bar. Extremely crowded with a large group of approximately 900 people. We walked the beach to the end of the peninsula and the dreaded entry channel. 1000’s on the beach. All the shade palapas were full of families with flags, signs and banners up, along with vendors, food booths etc. We went to the top of a 2 story palapa for a cervesa and were corrected by the 12-13 year old bartender that we should ask for a Pilsner, the national beer of El Salvador. Great spot to people watch. Apparently they come from San Salvador each weekend by 30 extremely colorful busses to escape the hotter interior climate. Like gambling junket busses at home.

La Punta Beach 6 Street Food La Punta Beach 5 with People

We returned to the boat down the spine road of the Peninsula. Did projects, and Harry fixed us cheese burgers and baked beans for lunch around 2:00pm What a cook. After setting up our sun tarp (getting old and tattered), we visited boat neighbors Doug and Jill on La Campanera and toured their boat. Met them in Huatalco. They are heading to Chile from Alaska. They had an old dog on board that I befriended and scratched. They are world class canoe people and she has written books about their canoe trips. Given our late lunch, we passed on dinner and just went to the bar for drinks and snacks of fried tortilla diamonds, guac and bean dips.

Compenera at Huatulco 

La Campanera in Huatulco

After dinner guys returned to the boat and I went looking for the casino. Found a large one with 10 card tables, roulette table, 50-60 each of wheel slots and poker machines. I was the only person there at 9:00pm, along with an armed guard, 2 cashiers and two attendants, all watching soccer games on TV. I have never gotten so much attention in a casino. Won $20 on poker machine. Back to boat and bed at 10:00pm

Bill and Jean

Crew with Bill and Jean who Organized the Cruisers’ Rally to El Salvador

Sunday 5/2 Bahia del Sol

Up at 6:30am. Harry made fresh cinnamon rolls and coffee and we contemplated a trip to the small town of Herradura for exploration and some light shopping. It was 88 degrees and humid.

Pool at Bahia del Sol

Pool at Bahia del Sol with Restaurant and Marina in Background

At 10:00am, Jim arranged through concierge Claudia for a local in a pickup truck to take me, Jim and Harry up the road to his panga, take us through the Mangrove jungles in the estuary to the docks at Herradura town. About a 25 minute ride past many dugout and panga fishermen. We initially walked through some really poor/broken down areas where the fishermen live, then into town that consists of a 2 mile stretch of shops and residences with maybe 1-2 blocks on either side of the main bus congested road. Town was in a lot better condition than the dock exit area. The main mode of transportation for the tourists and locals was 3 wheel Cushman type motor carts. The busiest place in town with SRO was the Catholic church in the middle of town. We visited a well supplied hardware store and a ghastly covered marketplace for vegetables and some supplies boat neighbors wanted us to get. The market people were very friendly. We visited a cellular phone store and bought Paul a charger for his phone. Despite the poverty there, the people were clean, neat, friendly and very interested in the three gringos. Harry got stiffed by a bunch of kids selling wooden crosses. He was going to get one to take to the kids at his school later in the week. After he got the price bargained ($1) and paid he asked their mother if he could take a picture of them all with their crosses. She refused to let him do so. He let them have the $ and left empty handed and no picture.

 La Harradura Taxi La Herradura Landing La Herradura Landing at Low Tide La Herradura Mercado La Herradura Mercado Buying Vegitables La Herradura Shop   

Harry with Toucan Bill with Toucan

After our town tour, we caught the fun bus back to the coast road where we would catch another down the Costa del Sol peninsula highway to our marina. What a trip. The busses were packed with neatly dressed church attendees and their kids. The busses there literally stop at everybody’s’ houses (huts, most without electricity and wood stoves) to let them off. Thus a slow ride but worth every moment in cultural emersion.

Back to the boat at 2:00pm for lunch and a swim in the pool. Tonight was pizza night with $1 beers. To bed by 9:00pm in 90 degree heat, and impressive lightening storms in the volcano rich hills to our east.

Monday 5/3 Bahia del Sol

Up at 6:00am (Crazy) and off to breakfast at 7:00am. Three boats arrived this am. Rumb Line, Calypso and Trumpeter. All were with us in Huatalco but left a day later and took the shoreline route. Bad decision as they got slammed with severe electrical storms, squalls and rough seas. At 11:45am Jim, Paul and Harry departed for Harry’s church project, bringing aid and supplies to a school in Sonsonate in the central part of El Salvador. They traveled in a rental van. Paul and Harry’s blogs/facebook pages will cover that trip in detail. I retreated to Virago for projects and relaxation. Among other things, I fixed the electric forward head, sanitized the interior, and cockpit, floors galley and walls. Basically I adopted Virago as my own and did projects accordingly. Went swimming in between projects and eating. At 6:30pm, a CT54 ketch came in with Peggy and Craig from Long Beach. Took 3 tries in the strong currents to finally land the thing. A lot of boat for a couple to handle. To bed at 9:30pm with lightening storms in the east.

Tuesday 5/4 Bahia del Sol

Up at 7:00am in 88 degree temps and major humidity. Spent the morning fueling the boat. Bought 31.5 gallons at $3.69 per gallon and filled 7 jugs. A lot higher price than Pemex in Mexico. Broke for breakfast after hauling the jugs to the boat, then pumped the jugs into the tanks. It all took about 5 hours as the siphon hose was very small. Done with tasks by 2:00pm and off to the local “super market” by fun bus. Quite an adventure. Shopped for fruit, beer, soft drinks and vodka. ($7.60 per quart) The market did not have garbage bags, deodorant or Coke Light. In fact, the stock was very poor. More of a 7-11 type place.

The bus ride home was the best part. Kids getting out of school thought I was quite a sight. Learning English, so they wanted to practice on me. The bus was full of nuns, vendors with baskets on their heads and servants coming and going from some of the bid estates and resorts. Bus was $.50 for a 10 mile ride. Back at 4:00pm for some rust removal activity in the cockpit and at the chain plates. After, swam, visited with boat neighbors and ate at the dock palapa. Rained just before bed so had to close the boat hatches up in the 90 degree humidity. Fun. To bed at 9:30pm Lightening storms to the east again. Finished up reading my biography on Les Schwab.

Wednesday 5/5 Bahia del Sol

Up at 9:30am (slept in) Clear and 96 humid degrees. Did some boat projects, read a new book, Fiasco by Tom Ricks about the run-up to the Iraq invasion and our failed policies relating thereto. I swam and went to dinner. During dinner I was whining about my phone costs and the local boatyard owner, Murray offered me his $.3 per minute prepaid phone to use to call home. What a nice gesture and I bought him a beer. Had best talk since Mexico with Nora. Murray from Canada built robots for the auto industry and now does occasional contract work for Caterpillar Tractor Co in the tar sands of his home province of Saskatchewan. He says that the sands are now a big deal again since they can harvest oil at $18 per barrel. To bed with Fiasco at 8:00pm

Thursday 5/6 Bahia del Sol

Bar Inside

Inside Marina Bar

Up at 7:30am had some fruit and went up to breakfast. While there, an expat from Chicago named Danny who lives across the estuary from the marina had a 3 month old female Keeshund puppy. Had fun playing with her. He adopted her on a San Salvador street corner and basically nursed her back to health with medical care. Did some boat projects before the boys returned.

At 6:00pm, no boys yet so I toughed it out and went to the Thursday Cruisers Social on behalf of the crew. Had 2 for 1 drinks and $1 snack plates of chicken wings, and beef and veggie shish- ke- bobs. Sat in the pool with the other cruisers, enjoying English conversation while Mojitos (a first for me) were served in the water for $4 for 2. Had live music and a singer doing Burt Bacharach and bosa nova mostly in English. Another big amp band was setting up on the patio for a party later that night and the crews were preparing the banquet hall for a fancy dinner for a Central American Rotary Youth convention coming in. Chinese lanterns were strung all over the patio area.

The boys arrived at 7:00pm from their trip to the school. They brought provisions, water and an air conditioner. Reported a good time while we had dinner. To bed by 10:00pm after screwing around installing the AC in the companion way door. Despite the mess it made, it did cool the boat’s interior effectively. I missed all the noise from the big party after 10:00pm, but Harry, sleeping in the cockpit got it full blast. That and the heat,noise and water vapor pouring out of the new AC really made his night. He will have to sleep below henceforth.

Virago at Bahia del Sol

Virago at Bahia del Sol

Friday 5/7 Bahia del Sol

Up at 6:00am to Paul working on his AC unit. Sent Harry in the rental car to Jacahulto for provisions. Went to breakfast and saw the remains of the big party last night that some of us missed. They had 15 large wooden pallets on the patio ground with mattresses on top with a sheet wrapped box next to each with votive candles. People sat on them during the party. Interesting custom.

After breakfast, Jim and I cleaned the cockpit again and helped Harry haul the new found groceries to the boat. Jim and I went to the end of the peninsula again to watch 3 boats come over the bar. No major excitement as the sea state was relatively calm. This was Jims last night with us. We toasted his departure pre-dinner and reflected on his long sample of the cruising lifestyle and his first overnight sailing.

The boys went to the boat at 8:30pm for rest and I did another Casino run. This time I hit 4-2’s and won $100, for a net profit of $80. All alone in the casino again To bed at 9:30pm.

Saturday 5/8 Bahia del Sol Departure-Maybe

Up at 5:00am for coffee, then walked Jim to his taxi to San Salvador for his TACA Airlines flight to Mexico City and on to Cabo San Lucas for a great vacation with his wife Judy and another couple. Sorry to see our Chief Engineer and Safety Officer have to leave. Our trusty crew was now down to 3.

Spend early morning prepping the boat for departure for Costa Rica around slack high tide at 11:00am. While doing so I inspected the rig for a final time. Found that the tack fitting connector holding the head stay on had deformed and the large clevis pin holding it together was about 1/16th of an inch from backing out completely. It appears that the cotter pin holding the clevis in had sheared leaving the pin free to move out of its designated holes. Any sudden movement of the head stay or furling system would have been catastrophic for the rig. Like crossing the bar later on this morning. After analysis and thought, and facing a bar crossing time window, it was decided to delay our departure a day and fix the problem without compromise. We can still make Costa Rica on schedule.

After spending most of the morning disassembling the furling system and head stay, we got the holding assembly out and gave it to Murray the boatyard owner to reshape and fix for us at his shop. Good thing he was there since there was no way we had the tools to reshape ¼” stainless steel. Napped from 2-4 then spent until dark working to put the refurbished part and furler back together. Paul and I made a couple of college trys but found that some parts left out or wouldn’t align, so we kept on trying until we ran out of light and energy. Will finish in the am, and read the directions for the furler as well. Brilliant!! Had a nice BBQ beef dinner with salad, vegis, and pudding on board thanks to Harry. After calls home on Harry’s World Phone, hit the sack early at 8:45pm. Thank you so much Harry.

Sunday 5/9 Departure for Costa Rica-Happy Mothers’ Day

(Captain’s note: The voyage across the Papagallo is also documented in the May 13th post.)

Up at 6:00am for a nice breakfast on board, final boat prep, including getting the furler totally and correctly reassembled. We left the dock at 11:40am led by Bill and Raylondo on the skidoo. They called the surf break perfectly and Paul gunned the motor and we crossed the bar perfectly and into the ocean in 10 minutes. Once out, the 8-12k breeze did not favor us so we spent the afternoon heading west out to sea to later turn to a SE heading to CR. Since nobody was particularly hungry we had a nice green salad and kept on sailing. Our plan with only 3 crew was to do 2 on, 4 off shifts through the night. A small colorful land bird joined us in the afternoon and rode along for hours on the stern pulpit.

By 8:00pm, we made the SE turn and motor sailed till 10:00pm with good SOG toward our Nicaragua waypoints. At that point in time, the wind built to 31k, the sea state built up substantially and we got pounded.

After cheating death again, we finally reefed the main to ¼ size, conformed the jib and got through the night. All 3 of us stayed in the cockpit as the cabin was hot all day and night and we had to keep the ports closed due to the green water pouring over the cabin top all night.

Monday 5/10 At sea off Nicaragua Coast

Sunrise brought us calmer seas in the mid to high 20’s and we could see the volcano laden Nicaragua coast 15 miles away. We were deep in the Gulf of Fonseca and the Gulf of Papagyo. By 9:00am breakfast, bran bars and fruit it was already mid 80 degrees. Everybody was tired as even off shift sleep was difficult with the boat movement and heat. Another very colorful land bird (like a Canary ) joined us and was so tame that it climbed on my chest and face as it explored the cockpit.

8.5 Knots in 30.8 Knots Avian Vistor 2

Extremes: 8.5 Knots at 30 Knots of Wind – Calm Seas Visitor

With calmer winds, we motor sailed for SOG to a Nicaragua mark more inshore for safety, then had a bean and wieners dinner with fruit salad. The evening wind again built into the 32k range with high seas and yet another pounding into the night. We passed a large city on shore but with the sailing excitement didn’t sight see much. Had a large motor yacht on AIS so we weren’t alone but he was further inshore. Never actually saw him. The wind and rig noise was quite high, but Harry could still sleep on the cockpit floor. Paul and I were envious that he could actually do that.

Tuesday 5/11 At sea off Nicaragua Coast.

At 6:00am I came up on deck from a nap to find the wind and sea state the same as last night with 27k and 8-10’ swells. The clue that we weren’t in Kansas any more was that Paul and Harry had their foul weather gear tops on in 90 degree temps.

Are We in the Bay Area Again

Are We Back in the Bay Area Again?

They were soaked. We will be in Costa Rican waters in 2 hours. As we traversed Papagyo Gulf, conditions continued to abate back to the mid 20k range and we entered Costa Rican waters around 9:00am and rest became possible. As we approached Tamarindo mark we saw a town with lots of hotels and high rises. Very remote but very beautiful. We later learned that this is a major coast side resort area for Costa Rican tourism.

Around 3:00pm , Paul was resting and Harry and I were doing watch. As the wind subsided we decided to put up more sail. Kiss of death. The wind completely shifted and quit. Weather was beautiful and the sea state flattened quickly. This was the official end of our sailing on the trip. We motored the rest of the day and into the night down the Costa Rican coast, dotted with resorts and very expensive looking homes on the cliffs. We were 10 miles off shore at this point with good views of the coast.

By sunset, under motor, we had a nice relaxed dinner (our last at sea) of salad and pasta. We rounded the southern tip of CR called Punta Guciones and headed for Punta Blanco the entrance to the Gulf of Nicoya, the entrance to a giant bay leading to our final destination of Puntarenas. Some lightening ahead but as our luck would continue to have it, it abated by the time we approached it. We all took this more relaxing time to rest, shower and organize our stuff that got tossed around for 2 ½ days at sea. During the night we entered the Gulf of Nicoya.

Wednesday 5/12 At sea/Puntarenas arrival—End of Voyage.

Up for 4:00am shift. We were in the Gulf, dodging buoys, fishing boats and other lighted and unlighted markers. Kind of nerve wracking after being in open ocean so long. With daylight at 5:30am we could see everything and made our final approach to Puerto Caldera and Puntarenas, our final destination. The town looked unchanged to me.

Estuary Waterfront of Puntarenas Costa Rica Yacht Club

Backside Waterfront and Costa Rica Yacht Club

A total armpit. Since it was low tide we could not get up the inner estuary behind the town all the way to the Costa Rica YC. We killed time off shore and had our final breakfast by Harry. Pancakes, sausage, fruit and coffee. Thanks Harry, you are relieved of galley duty. We got impatient so started up the channel only to ground in soft mud. We threw in the towel at 9:14am and anchored. Voyage officially over. Tech Note: We are now at Latitude 9 degrees, 43 minutes and 20 seconds. Remember the Bay Area is at Latitude 38 degrees.

We spent a few hours on the hook, waiting for high tide and a yacht club guide to come out and guide us into their marina area. Had some CDA beer and cleaned up the boat. Around 2:00pm the YC’s panga guy came out to get us. He led us right into another soft grounding. After much maneuvering by Paul and our bow thruster we got back into the deeper channel and proceeded to the mooring platform at the club. We side tied to a wooden raft in the middle of the estuary with an Erickson 27. No power or water and mooring cleats that looked like they were going to break off any minute. Arrival time 2:00pm.

At the Dock at the Costa Rica Yatch Club

Virago at Costa Rica Yacht Club

At 2:15pm, Paul went ashore in the YC provided 24/7 water taxi panga to do fact finding and the immigration/customs check in to a new country. Harry and I stayed aboard to organize our stuff and drink beer. Now 93 degrees and very humid.

Paul called on VHF and requested we come ashore, bring our laundry and join him for lunch. Did so and had a good lunch at the large and very well appointed CRYC open air dining room/bar. We decided right then that we would get off the boat, take a $10 per night club hotel room with air conditioning, showers and real beds. Not a tough sell. After lunch, we returned to Virago, gathered our stuff and moved into the YC rooms 19 and 20. Harry and I bunked together in a Spartan but nice room. We fired up the AC and relaxed until dinner time. Still full of a late lunch, we only had drinks, followed by calls home and an early turn in. 95 degrees and 90% humidity outside.

 Pool at Costa Rica Yacht Club Motel at Costa Rica Yacht Club 1

Motel and Pool at Costa Rica Yacht Club

Beach from CRYC to Puntarenas

Black Sand Beach Across Highway from CRYC—Puntarenas in the Distance

Note: The club bar and food menu was very nice. Fernando was our waiter. Handsome and trying his best to speak English. As always soccer was on the TV sets in the club. There was a 20 room club motel, a large pretty pool/patio area and lush grounds. Also 24/7 security on the boats.

Thursday 5/13 Puntarenas moored at Costa Rica YC

Up at 7:00am for club breakfast. Food very good. Harry did reservations to match mine in San Jose with transfers etc. We checked out the beach and took some pictures. Paul had to do the immigration dance with the help of a very nice club manager Carlos who was bi-lingual. Carlos also manages the boatyard and informed us that we would haul out at high tide today vs. next week. So, with that schedule change, and while Paul was doing immigration stuff, Harry and I went to the boat to do cleanup and stowing of gear in preparation for haulout. Harry cleaned out the refer boxes and freezer and sanitized the galley while I did the heads and floors. We removed the jib and bagged it, removed the life raft, anchor, all sheets and lines and stored them below. If it could “walk” it got taken below.

Around 2:30pm at high tide we moved the boat over to the boatyard travel lift entry dock. It was all very dramatic and there were at least 10 guys there to “help”, all with conflicting ideas on how to sling Virago. We believe that Virago is the biggest boat that they have hauled, and she barely fit in the entry bay and lift. We had to remove the furler and head stay. After much excitement and the help of a diver, we got airborne and cleared the ground by 2-3” on exit onto the yard’s concrete area. If we had a fin keep, there would have been no way period!!

Virago Aground at Costa Rica Yatch Club

The Two White Spots Under the Bow are Actually Light Coming Through the Bow Thruster

Virago is Aground!

Once set up on blocks around 4:30pm, we panga’d back across the estuary to the club and our air conditioned rooms for showers, laundry pickup and rest. Tough day doing boat tasks in the heat and humidity. I think Harry and I each lost 5-7 lbs. Harry and I packed for our adventure tomorrow to start home. We had dinner around 6:00pm at the club. It felt good to have worked hard all day to help Paul get Virago hauled, then clean up and put on freshly laundered clothes and have a relaxed dinner and drinks. Today was 96.4 degrees and 85% humidity. Heavy rain while we were at dinner. We shut the place down at 7:45pm.

On the Hard in Puntarenas 017 On the Hard in Puntarenas 015   On the Hard in Puntarenas 016

On the Hard in Puntarenas 020 Virago in the Lift at Costa Rica Yatch Club

How Close Was Virago to the Capacity of the Travel Lift at Costa Rica Yacht Club?

Friday 5/14 Departure day to San Jose Costa Rica

Up at 6:00am for final packing, breakfast at the club and the 1 ½ hour shuttle trip to the capital of Costa Rica, San Jose. Around 10:00am, Harry and I said a sad farewell to Captain Paul and headed downtown to the Tioga Hotel on the beachfront to catch our shuttle. Paul will follow leaving late next week. Town looked quite tattered and empty as no cruise ship was expected until tomorrow. All the casinos were shut down. Lots of bars on windows and doors. Why cruise ships go there is a mystery to me, but from past cruises there the place does come alive during the early winter when the weather is better and San Jose folks come over to escape the heat at the beach. Our ride to San Jose was very educational. We traveled on a super modern highway most of the way, with a few detours around the toll booths on the road into the country. With all the rain, the country was lush and green. Saw full electrification of the houses and farms and nicer houses than El Salvador and its poverty. Not as much of a gap between rich and poor.

Restaurant at Trapp Family Lodge Pool at Trapp Family Lodge

Restaurant and Pool at Trapp Family Lodge

We got to the San Jose airport to catch a cab to the Trapp Family Country Inn where we were going to stay the night before our 6:40am flight home. We drove through an awful and congested area off airport industrial property. When the cab driver turned down a rocky dirt road to the hotel we thought we made a big mistake on the hotel choice. Then we arrived at a big steel guarded gate. Once opened we entered a lush and beautiful Spanish colonial estate property. (see pictures). We called home to let our wives know we were there and on schedule. We then sat on a beautiful open patio in soft couches and had a few drinks to unwind from the trip. We had dinner on a beautiful patio dining area with linen table coverings and candles and deluxe trimmings. Steak dinner was wonderful and off to bed early in very large rooms with double doors onto a veranda overlooking a beautiful pool area and a stream going through the property. What a good choice. (see pictures)

Saturday 5/15 Going Home

Up at 3:00am for shuttle to the Juan Santamaria International Airport. Wake up call by a human, and the shuttle were absolutely on time. The airport was modern, spacious and clean. Had to pay an “exit tax” of $26 each before we could check in. Frontier Airlines charged no baggage fees. Our fellow passengers were mostly young surfers, mountain hikers and bikers. Eco tourism reigns in Costa Rica. Our flight to Denver was on time and Harry and I parted company for San Francisco and San Jose, CA respectively. Great to have Harry as a traveling companion. We hope Paul’s journey home goes so well.

JOURNEY’S END

Acapulco to Bahia del Sol

This is the text prepared by Bill Eddy with photos from several crew members added.

On this leg the crew was Paul Goss, Bill Eddy, Jim Labbe, and Harry Reppert.

Tuesday 4/20 Acapulco YC Marina

Up at 8:15am. Did some miner inspection of the wheel squeak problem. Since we did not know where the source of the noise was for sure, Jim went into Paul’s cabin, removed the ceiling and lubed every possible friction point in the steering system. We replaced the ceiling cover and hoped for the best when we get back out to sea. Went to brunch at the club at 10:00am and returned to boat to make up provision list for the next leg of the trip to Huatulco. Harry and I and a taxi driver/shopping assistant Jose went into old central Acapulco town to the Mercado Commercial Mexicana. Very crowded store, but we got everything on the list including vodka. Lost my “Eddyline Bar and Grill” ball cap, and had to buy a new one at the AYC store on the club grounds. $150 peso rip off ($12USD) Brought stuff back to boat and sat around as Paul put the goods away. For the record, it should be noted that Harry will be officially taking over the cooking and menu planning from Paul, who has done a fine job for the trip so far, and the entire Ha Ha in November.

Restaurant at Acapulco Yacht Club Acapulco Yatch Club Entrance Pool at Acapulco Yacht Club 1 Pool at Acapulco Yacht Club 2

Scenes at the Acapulco Yacht Club

In the pm Jim and I went to the pool. We could see two NCL Cruise ships in the Bay. One berthed and one anchored. Their presence would account for the crowd we saw in town and in the market. At 7:00pm, we went to the club for our final dinner in Acapulco. Filet mignon again. After drinks and wine, we chatted till 10:00pm and back to the boat to call our wives and rest up for the next trip leg to Huatalco.

Harry Repairs Sump Pump Harry in the Galley

Harry Quickly Makes Himself at Home

Wednesday 4/21 Departing Acapulco Day

Up at 7:30am to prep boat for departure. Had final breakfast at the YC, then Paul and Jim went looking for a replacement retaining pin for the large clevis through the gooseneck. Jim had luckily discovered that it was missing after he found the old bent pin on the deck shortly after we arrived. It took awhile but Engineer Jim got a custom pin made and put it all together. We left the AYC dock for the 231 mile trip to Huatalco at 1:24pm.

We were out into the ocean by 2:00pm and headed SE. Put up the asym and off we went in 10-15k breeze at 5-8k boat speed. Delightful weather and flat sea state through 7:30pm. No wheel squeak. Whatever Jim did stopped the noise and made the trip so much nicer for all of us. Kind of like tackling the entire football team to get to the ball.

Dinner at 5:30pm by Harry. Big salad followed by vegetable and chicken and noodle soup. Dessert was custard cups from the store. We also had a ½ hour dolphin show during dinner. Too hot to sleep much. Bill and Harry teamed for the 12-4 while Paul and Jim had the 8-12 and 4-8 shifts. We ran all night with the asym up on port and the jib poled out on starboard with consistent SOG of 5+ k. Wind died around 7:00am.

Thursday 4/22 At sea

Up at 7:00am for sail changes to the main and asym. SOG low at 4.5k but expect better speed as the wind picks up this afternoon. The change brought us to 5k, SOG of 6.2k with the 1k current running with us. Had French toast, sausage and OJ for breakfast. Hot and humid but semi cool in the cockpit with breeze. Cabin very warm.

At 1:00pm just as lunch was served we had to reduce sail as overpowered. Paul pulled the asym down and we put up the jib alone for now. Averaging 6k on jib alone. No particular hurry as we do not want to overrun our Hualtulco target. After lunch, we got another big dolphin show, jumping out of the water for food. Beautiful animals and fun to watch. Many tankers around us as well traversing to and from Panama canal.

We sailed all day. We tried the asym in mid afternoon but too much with winds at or above 20k. Experiment failed so we took it down immediately. So we reefed the main to 50% and bound it out on starboard (jib on port) and sailed that way at 7-8k the rest of the afternoon and into the night shifts. Bill/Harry 8-12 and4-8. Paul/Jim 12-4. Exciting night sailing with no problems.

Friday 4/23 Huatulco Arrival

We approached Huatalco Bay as the wind and sea state calmed down a bit. We needed to kill time so we would approach the harbor area in daylight. Same old story as in so many previous port approaches. We make such good speed that we overrun the approach targets and bays. Obviously we did better than our trip plan of a 5k average. We were in the channel approach at 7:30am. The channel approach presented a difficult look as the actual marina was tucked around behind a southerly cliff and not visible until we were committed to what looked like a beach landing.

Huatulco Marina

Marina Entrance is Behind the Two Palm Trees in the Distance

All went well and we secured in a berth in the Chahue Marina in Huatalco with help from the harbor crew at 8:24am. Cheated death again. They took Paul away for check in activities with Customs and Immigration.

Captain & Crew at Huatulco

Crew Safe and Sound at Huatulco

Set up boat in berth, showered and gave our laundry to an enterprising young lady who came by the boat as we were berthing. Said we would have it back tomorrow. We took a $20 peso cab ride to the central Huatalco town for a wonderful breakfast in an air conditioned restaurant off the Zocollo. Recommended by the Harbormaster’s very helpful assistant. After breakfast, Jim and I took an exploratory walk around town while Paul and Harry went to an auto parts store for a temperature sensitive battery hydrometer. Took pictures of many restaurants, a beautiful central park area, many nightclubs and little shops. The real people part of town was neat and clean, and obviously taken care of by Fonture, the government tourist development organization. The town was really well layed out and clean with wide boulevards with palm trees and trimmed grasses. We got some maps at the Zocollo to show our families and had a fresh papaya drink at a corner stand while people watching. Really fun. Returned to the marina by cab for a nap.

The marina 5 miles from town is well built but clearly still under development. Their vision is probably good but a long way from done. For example, the marina office is surrounded by commercial space, but no business yet. The showers are crude outdoor ones behind cinder block walls. Also of note was a heavily armed military force of 4 men guarding a very sleek silver cabin model speedboat down from out berth. Apparently confiscated due to an ownership issue. 4 guys, 24/7. Gives dock security a whole new meaning. We think drug smuggling might be at the root of the problem.

Spent the post nap hours cleaning up personal gear and getting organized, waiting to call Nora and the family while still on the lame Verizon Mexico phone plan. After Mexico, the calls will go to $2-3 per minute under regular plan. Windy in the marina and very dusty from development and 94 degrees inside the boat and out.

At 7:00pm we went to dinner downtown at Lechalote Restaurant Bar and Gallery, recommended by a friend of Pauls. Hidden on a back street and few customers but a wide menu. I had a beef tenderloin wrapped in bacon, mashed potatoes salad, vegis bread and 2 drinks for $400 pesos @ $32USD. A little high for Mexico but wonderful. Back to the boat by 10:00pm for sleep and calls to home.

Saturday 4/24 Huatalco

Up at 8:15am. Navy guards changing shifts. Laundry arrived at 9:15am folded neatly for $56 @ $5USD. Spent the day on boat cleanup and projects:

Dinghy off top, washed, dried and put away

Complete boat wash and dry

New float switch for grey water pump (first of many)

Unclogged forward head

Fixed battery balance problem (we hope)

Relubed steering cable system and replaced aft cabin ceiling

Put up blue shade tarp

Rewired starting battery.

We got battery system help from a berth neighbor who by luck was a retired marine electrician. Found one large battery wire had become unhooked and likely led to the voltage/load issues Paul was detecting. Broke at 5:00pm for Margaritas.

Did final head cleanup, all showered and went into town in taxi for dinner at the Sabor de Oaxaca. Harry had grasshoppers (the insects) we all had giant salads (a full meal themselves) steak dinners and other native delights. After dinner, we walked town again. Being a Saturday night the Zocollo was packed with local families with kids and dogs enjoying the cool air from the nearby Bay. Back to the boat for call home and bed at 11:00pm. All good.

Sunday 4/25 Huatalco

Up at 8:00am. Dock lost power and water, but got it back by noon. Miracle!! Not much activity today on boat. Harry and I went to the Super Che market (a mini Costco) in town for some provisions (mainly liquids) Brought stuff back by taxi and loaded it on the boat, followed by a beer reward. Very hot!! Harry precooked bacon and hardboiled eggs for our next sea leg. Note: At Super Che, young kids in school uniforms were helping customers find things, load and check out. Very enthusiastic and knew the store product locations well. Must be a school or church fund raiser. Great to see such enthusiasm.

Huatulco Zocolo 3 Huatulco Zocolo

The Zocolo is the Town Center Both Geographically and Socially

Left boat for dinner around 7:30pm for Santa Cruz Playa area. This is Huatalco’s very nicely developed and clean cruise ship dock area. All shops closed now as the last cruise ship left today for Acapulco at 4:00pm, not to return until October. Ate at a nice beach palapa called Ve la Mar. Had a beef/fish/shrimp/vegi shish kabob. Dessert was a table prepared banana flambeau with ice cream. See pictures. Back to boat by 11:30pm for calls home and bed.

Monday 4/26 Leaving Huatalco

Up at 7:30am for departure prep. Vac and cleaned floors and heads. Jim and I got fuel by taxi at the local Pemex station (8-5gallon jugs). Taxi driver cost $70 for trip and helping us fill the jugs. Topped off Virago with one jug and lashed the other 7 to the deck for use on the next long leg if needed. Cleared customs and immigration and the port captain by 2:00pm. While all this was going on, Harry did the final shopping at Super Che and brought the goods back to the boat by taxi. Note: The customs people took the regular fee then requested a “tip” from Paul. Cleared to go.

Called Nora and sons Dave and Mike. Last calls on the Cheap. Will have to borrow phones the rest of the way. At 5:00pm had a nice spaghetti and meatball and salad dinner on deck with a cabernet wine. When finished, we put away more stuff and let the lines free at 7:00pm for El Salvador.

Through the night and early am. we had 9-13k breeze, flat seas, dolphin escorts and a full moon lighting the way directly in front of the bow. Sailed main and jib only doing 5.2-6.8k in light puffs. In the sailing world, this was a “10”

Tuesday 4/27 At Sea

Up at 7:30am. The 4-8 crew put motor on as the wind finally died and we needed the batteries charged. Temp low 80’s and 1’ swell. We are 70 miles out in the feared Gulf of Tuhanepec. Nothing but horizon. Had a nice breakfast of OJ, coffee, pancakes and bacon. Hit the spot. Tried the asym and poled jib for speed but “nada”. Took it all down after lunch of fruit salad and motored through the afternoon and into the night. It was 93 degrees and humid as hell. No action on the Gulf yet. The biggest excitement was the visit by 2 frigate birds that landed on the pulpit and let us reach to within 1” of them. Harry took pictures with Paul’s camera.

By dinner, still no wind but full moon so continued to motor. Looks like the Bermuda Triangle out here. Lots of reading and sleeping going on as we motored.

Wednesday 4/28 At Sea

Up at 4:00am for 4-12 shift. No wind and motoring at 8k toward our first Guatemala waypoint. By 9:30am we were officially 35 miles off their coast. Breakfast of cereal, fruit, coffee and bagels. We motored under a big rain squall that washed the dust from Huatalco Marina off. Boat looked better. By 10:30am out from under the squall and got minor wind so put up the asym and full main. 246 nm from Bahia del Sol, El Salvador.

Tahuantapec Clouds Tahuantapec Rain

Back motoring by 2:00pm By evening skies were threatening. Had nice tuna salads/ sandwiches. By the 8-12 shift we were deep into thunder and lightening storms and large rain squalls that lasted until 4:00am. We could see the rain squalls on the radar so we had a lot of fun under power dodging them. Miss all of them while watching spectacular lightening sheets and streaks all around us. Of course being the only tall aluminum post sticking up in the middle of an empty ocean made us all a little nervous. All this while trying to keep a good VMG to the Bahia del Sol entrance waypoint. Quite a night. 88-92 degrees all day and night. Last let to BDS with 79 miles to go. Passed Guatemala but never saw it due to distance off shore, clouds or dark.

Thursday 4/29 At Sea

Up at 7:00am for big arrival at BDS. Unfortunately, due to 1.5k current against us we cannot make BDS till Friday. Had a nice breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon toast and fruit. At 9:00am, Jim and I refueled the tanks from the Jerry jugs using a small hand pump. Took an hour. By 10:00am we set sails and sailed by a medium sized industrial port of Acajulta and its SE Bay. By 2:00pm the wind picked up with chop to 21k so we reefed and continued beating our way SE. Our goal was to time our arrival for daylight Friday even if we had to motor. Overcast, 3-4’ swells 87 degrees and a little humid. Wind average in the 13-17k range so sailing was good. Harry called BDS Rally organizer on his international phone using an Acajulta cell tower. Told us to be at the BDS pilot station for guide over the bar at 5:30am So we day sailed around the Bay of Acajulta to essentially kill time for proper arrival. Note: From the sea, we could see at least 8 volcanoes. Very impressive. Dinner at 5:30pm of noodle and beef stroganoff with green salad.

After dinner we dropped sails and motored all night in a timed way , as figured by Paul’s advanced time and distance calculations. Wind was nada. We could see shore lights throughout the night, essentially seeing the Costa del Sol peninsula and its resorts and residences. Full moon as well. Very impressive.

Friday 4/30 Bahia del Sol Arrival

Up at 4:00am all hands on deck while we motored up to the pilot mark to await escort across the bar into BDS. Opps!!! When we called in at 0530 to tell them we were on station, the rally organizer called back to inform us that the earlier hotel person gave us bad info and we could not enter until 4:00pm high slack tide. Bad News!!. So we had no choice but to loose the day, anchor off shore in 50’ of water and wait. We elected to sleep . We were up after a nice rest at 9:00am. Did cleanup tasks had coffee and a fruit plate. Raining, 88 degrees.

Surf at Bahia del Sol

Daunting Surf Across Bahia del Sol Channel

Into/across the bar under escort to harbor for arrival at Bahia del Sol resort/casino/marina at 5:00pm. Very exciting. The channel had plenty of depth but we had to hit the opening just right between breaker sets. Thanks to a lot of help from the guide ski-doo with event organizer Bill and the native guide Raylondo we hit it perfectly with only a couple of 4-5’ swells carrying us forward. Harry took a video, Paul steered perfectly and we glided across the bar hitting 12.2k at one point. Interestingly, the guide ski-doo broke down in the middle of our crossing operation, so Bill and Raylondo had to be rescued by a large motor vessel “Phantom”. They boarded her and called us in from the top deck of that boat. While we had a safe crossing, Phantom almost broached behind us on their way across

Once through the bar, we pulled into the calm bay and the marina at the resort. Several other boaters helped us secure lines. Some were boaters who we had seen at some of our earlier stops up north. Like seeing old friends. Paul did the immigration and customs check in, paid $100 for the boat and $20 per person USD. Wow! Once secured and powered up we went to the bar for a real drink and dinner to celebrate the fact that we cheated death again.

Crew at Bahia del Sol

Crew Safe and Sound Yet Again

There was a very nice shoreside bar and restaurant with uniformed help. Boys had whole fish dinners and I had a hamburger. After dinner, a local boatyard owner Murray was celebrating his birthday. His group and the cruisers shared his birthday cake with us after singing happy birthday en mass. Very festive. Bill Yeargan and Jean Strain aboard Mita Kuuluu, the event organizers sat with us for the time. Note: We shared the restaurant with a bunch of Amalie Racing Motor oil dealers from Central America. All dressed in racing shirts, including the hookers.

Bar

Bahia del Sol Marina-side Bar

After the gathering, we returned to the boat in pouring 88 degree rain. To bed at 10:00pm. Tomorrow will be a cleanup and rest day. Note: As part of the Rally and fees we paid, we have full use of and access to the resort, including a nice pool, showers, casino and bar/restaurants. Note: The currency here in El Salvador is the USD so no more exchanges.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Manzanillo to Acapulco

Most of this text is from notes taken by Bill Eddy. At Manzanillo Bruce McDiarmid left Virago and Larry and Miriam Baskin joined the crew.

Monday 4/12 at anchor in Las Hadas

Up at 8:00am to bright sunrise and lots of container ships and tankers coming and going from the very large Manzanillo port. Coffee, toast and pastry for breakfast then on to boat projects including:

  • Rigged up new Davis radar reflector
  • Mounted fire extinguisher in cockpit
  • Swept out cockpit
  • Quality assured all inflatable PFD’s
  • Paul dry fitted his custom made bed board torture devices
  • Made attempt #2 on steering system noise. Soaped the rudder shaft
  • Checked and adjusted sparkplugs on outboard. Marginal improvement.
  • Rigged a Paul Goss experimental whisker pole restraint setup for long-term reaching.

Paul made another attempt to reach the Harbormaster. No luck. We seriously doubt that he works more than a few minutes a day. Such a deal. After projects we all showered and went to shore with 4 other couples/crew of anchor outs. Went to the beachside Delfino restaurant where many scenes from “10” were filmed. Had Margaritas and dinner. I had a nice stuffed chicken breast and rice with salad. Food was a step up from the Paradise Restaurant but expensive. $850 or $70 USD for the three of us. Back to the boat for conversation and a few calls home. Great fun.

Tuesday 4/13 at anchor in Las Hadas

Up at 8:00am for coffee and pastry. Then made ready for Larry and Miriam Baskin to join us later in the day for the leg to Acapulco. I cleaned out the forward suite and we set it up for them. I will move to the main salon with Jim or sleep in the cockpit for awhile. No biggie and will enjoy the evening breezes there. Did boat projects including Jim installing a new solar vent over the galley, interior cleaning and again working on the steering system noise with soap as recommended by Roger Frizzelle. Try #3.

Larry and Miriam arrived by a boat neighbor’s dinghy around 5:00pm. Good to see them and our crew is now 5. Once they settled we headed to shore for dinner at the Paradise but it was closed. Thus we ended up at the Delfino again. Nice food and views. Returned to the boat for conversation and sleep. Music from the Barceló Resort lasted from 10-2.

Wednesday 4/14 at anchor in Las Hadas

Up at 8:00am to nice cool breeze in high 70’s. After coffee we weighed anchor and took the boat to the fuel dock. This was a challenge as we had to med moor to the dock, a first for Virago. Paul, Jim and Larry were on Virago, and Miriam and I took the dinghy to the dock to clear away dinghies and lines so we could squeeze in for fuel and water. All went well, we topped off the tanks and returned the boat to our original place in the Bay.

After 1:00pm, we celebrated our med moor deal and went to shoreside restaurant Fridas for a late breakfast. After, we left Jim at the resort and all went to town for another tour. After our town and market tour (Miriam bought some vegies for salads later in trip) we stopped at the historic Colonial Inn with its incredible woodworking and had Margaritas.

  Hotel Colonial 2 Hotel Colonial

Hotel Colonial, Manzanillo

Mercado 1 Mercado 2 from Mezanene

Typical City Mercado

After, we taxied to Saryano Market for provisions. It was like a super Walmart. Got what we needed and returned to the boat, dinghy’d stuff to the boat. Larry and Miriam stayed on shore to enjoy the Las Hadas pool area. We rejoined at 7:30pm for dinner at Lo Poco Italian Restaurant in the marina. Pasta and meatballs for me and fish for the rest of the crew. Good food and service. Back to the boat for BS, listening to shoreside music and to the sack by 11:00pm.

Thursday 4/15 Departing Las Hadas today (Taxes Due)

Up at 7:30am to cool temps and high fog. Everybody broke out their sweatshirts but quickly changed back to our usual t-shirts and shorts. Had fresh blueberry muffins and coffee while Paul pre-prepared chicken and vegetable soup for later on at sea. We tried to raise the mystic harbormaster for checkout but no luck. We started initial prep for takeoff. Jim and I changed the sparkplugs for the outboard motor. Helped at high RPM’s but did little for idle. Paul and Larry went ashore to find the Harbormaster and had luck. They returned with signed exit documents, we stored the dinghy and motor and weighed anchor at 12:47pm for Ixtapa. Yah!!!

 Bill & Jim Work on Outboard 2 Jim Oiling the Steering Gear 1

Maintenance Goes On and On and On…..

We beat out of the Bay in 10-12k breeze on main and jib. We passed the giant power plant at the south side of town belching toxic oil smoke all over town and the surrounding hills. Makes you glad the US has pollution laws. After we cleared the south point of the Bay, we headed SE, put up asym and moved along at 4.5-8k. Extremely pleasant with flat sea state and a lot of napping going on in the cockpit.

Approaching Manzanillo Landmark

Manzanillo’s Most Famous Landmark

In the afternoon, the chart plotter, radar, AIS system failed over and over after we started the radar scan/ais function. Same shutoff problem we had during the passage from Cabo San Lucas to La Cruz. We experimented by running combinations of the instruments. Seemed like the AIS was what pushed the setup to shut off. Plotter/radar was a good combination and we were trouble free after we set tMiriam Works on Saladhat.First Bread     

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fresh Bread and Salad Are Big Hits at Sea

At 7:30pm we had  Miriam’s great fresh salad with ingredients from the Central Mercado. It was loaded with goodies. That followed by Paul’s Chicken/vegi and Top Raman soup and bread. Perfect ending meal for the day. At 8:00pm the wind died off so we reluctantly dropped the asym and main and motored. We celebrated Miriam’s first overnight at sea with a beautiful sunset but no green flash. Had to motor through 8-12 shift.

Friday 4/16 at sea

After midnight we got a little breeze and sailed on main and jib till sunrise. At that point we tried the asym and various things but the wind would not support sailing being in the 3-4.5k range. We need 11k or better to make rig setup worth it. Started to motor at 7:30am for Ixtapa 70 miles away.

By 8:00am everybody was up. In daylight we discovered that during the night we acquired 12 baby squid on deck. One had even come through an open porthole and landed on one of the recliner chairs in the main salon. Mid morning, we encountered more giant sea turtles and dolphins. Larry used his pro camera to take some close ups of them. Around 11:00am we ran the main and jib and tried the asym again. Both combos worked on motor sail mode and we arrived in Ixtapa at 5:30pm.

Catch of the Day Squid 

Fresh Squid Not a Big Hit at Sea

Turtle Swimming 2 Turtle Swimming 1

Turtle Doing the Overhand Stroke

Ixtapa Channel Out Rocks  Ixtapa Channel In 

Nothing Says “Welcome” Quite Like a Narrow Rocky Harbor Entrance

In our berth at Marina Ixtapa we were met by a large Crocodile at the bow of the boat. We berthed backwards and scraped the bottom rocks on the way in a long channel. No damage. Went to dinner ASAP at a local restaurant row type place adjacent to many high-rise hotels, resorts and condos on the beach. Very pretty place. There was even a Sr. Frogs blaring music into the restaurant areas. We ate at a small non descript place. Lots of food for a low price. Had giant Mexican combo plates and 3 for 1 drinks. One drink was offered free, the second part of a 2 for 1 deal and the third free because the waiter made a mistake and brought us another we did not order. Language barrier here.

Warning at Ixtapa

Virago Floats Peacefully Within Sight of this Crocodile Warning at Ixtapa Marina

We rode back to the marina on the bus for $5 pesos $.30 USD Best price yet for transport. Got good views of the resorts at night. Barceló and Tessoro were the biggest all inclusives in the area. A day pass there was $440 pesos or $35 USD. We passed on that. Once back at the marina we called our wives and turned in at 11:30pm. About 90 degrees and humid, but some ocean breeze trying to cool things off.

Saturday 4/17 Ixtapa Marina

Up at 7:00am to bright warm day. Walked into two story Marina Ixtapa office. Includes Harbormaster’s office, golf pro shop, restaurant, meeting rooms, large shower rooms and home to a beautiful but empty 18 hole golf course. Crocs in the water hazards per the greens keeper fellow. Hosed down boat, filled water tanks for Acapulco leg and went to a nice restaurant on the malecon for coffee.

We took the fun bus to Zijuantenejo for $15 pesos for a walking tour of town and the beach area. Saw cruise ship tender dock, surrounded with gift shops and stands. Lots of silver, art and clothes stores. The real people were further in town away from the beach. Bought hats and shirts and made a donation to the local animal shelter SPCA fellow whose mother came to Z-town in 1986 and founded the society. He had a donation jar on top of two cages out front of his crafts store with 2 Siamese kittens on top and a darling German Sheppard puppy under, all up for adoption. The very enthusiastic fellow said that he had more adoptable animals upstairs in his apartment for display tomorrow. I bought a T-shirt from the shelter for Nora and took some pictures to show that someone in Mexico is looking out for the animals.

We took a long walk around the bay taking pictures and stopping for beer at a nice beach palapa. Well developed area. Jim, Paul and I walked deep into town then took a bus back to the marina. Larry and Miriam chartered a panga and went snorkeling out in the bay at 4:00pm. At the boat, we did a little laundry to get us through to Acapulco. We relaxed and went to dinner at 6:00pm at Cocobino’s Lounge and Bar on the waterfront. Like breakfast it was expensive by Mexican standards but not USD. Had a nice salad, sirloin steak and vodkas for $400 pesos. Back to boat after a long tourista day and hit the sack. Music from a nearby club till 2:00am.

Zihuatenajo 9 Mercado 2Zihuatenajo 9 Mercado 1

Typical Mercado at Zihuatenajo

Zihuatenajo 13 Lunch

Captain and Crew at Lunch on the Beach at Zihuatenajo

 

Zihuatenajo 8   Zihuatenajo 10 Zihuatenajo 11 Zihuatenajo 12 Not all Build Up Yet   Zihuatenajo 15 Street Zihuatenajo 1 Zihuatenajo 2  Zihuatenajo 4 Crew Views Bay Zihuatenajo 5 Zihuatenajo 6 Leon 2

Street Scenes in Zihuatenajo

Zihuatenajo 7 Bill with Four Footed Friend

Bill at the Street Pound

Sunday 4/18 Departing Ixtapa for Acapulco

Up at 7:30am. Went for a walk on the beach with Jim and viewed the giant resorts from the beach side. Lots of infinity pools, beach/poolside palapas and guards so guys like us won’t wander in. Lots of families walking the beach with us, but the surf was too rough for the kids to swim. We went to breakfast at Cocobinis . Pastries to die for.

Ixtapa Beach Ixtapa Beach 2

Ixtapa Beach

We departed for the 108 mile trip to Acapulco at 12:14pm. Wind at 10-15k and we beat out of the Bay for a few miles and turned SE for Acapulco. Later it built to 14-17k for some excellent 8.5-9.2k speeds. Wind continued to build to 19-23k and we got overpowered with the asym and full main up. After getting pushed around quite a bit we decided to bag the asym and sail on main and jib only. Ride smoothed out and we rode the wind at 7.5-8.5k for 3-4 hours and into the night till 1:00am. Steering noise was getting worse and worse. We’ll work on it some more in Acapulco. At 1:00am we lost the wind and motor sailed till 3:00am. We then sailed till arrival at entrance to Acapulco Bay. The end of Miriam’s second and perhaps too eventful night in the open ocean.

Monday 4/19 Arrival at Acapulco

At 7:45am we entered Acapulco Bay looking at a mass of high rises. Warm sunny day. Our new crew, Harry Reppert called by Paul. He arrived safely and planned to meet us at the Acapulco YC when we arrive. We landed at the club fuel dock at 8:30am. We met Harry who helped us settle in with local knowledge and entered our berth adjacent to the fuel dock. We were incredibly lucky to get any berth given that the YC docks were overflowing with boats in preparation for a sailing regatta next weekend. Once settled in and checked in and hooked up to power, we went to breakfast at the YC. Great food and service and atmosphere. The club is an oasis in the mass of old town Acapulco. Absolutely a place for the rich. After breakfast we cleaned the boat up after a rough night at sea.

We took our laundry into an old part of town, led by a fellow at the docks who was one of those folks who can get you anything and knows everybody. Old town looked a lot like La Cruz area. After we went to the club for beers (96 degrees and humid) then off for a swim in the huge club pool. Got pictures. Larry and Miriam prepared to disembark to stay in Harry’s hotel room for the night before their flight home. Harry graciously offered to stay on the boat that night. Jim and I spent the afternoon at the pool till we picked up laundry for $55 pesos @ at 7:30pm. After we rendezvoused at the club for drinks and dinner to celebrate Harry’s arrival and the sad departure of Larry and Miriam. She, not he, classed up our act considerably. Good food (filet mignon dinner for $22 USD. Back to the boat for BS and bed at 11:30pm. Larry and Miriam retired to their hotel room not to be seen again.