tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-58077878903504063152024-02-22T07:10:51.674-08:00Virago's LogCatalina 470 Hull 163 at Catalina IslandPaul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.comBlogger54125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-60891512992869651152013-05-07T12:19:00.001-07:002013-05-07T13:49:19.908-07:00When Should I Change Course?<p>In my last post I expressed my frustration with the limited success I have had in plotting my great grandfather-in-law’s dead reckoning course from St John’s Newfoundland to Burin. It was time to change tactics. I figured that since I would be retracing his route, I might as well start planning my own strategy with an eye to the instrumentation and methods available in 1886.  </p> <p>One of the first lessons that all sailors learn is that a sailboat of any era cannot sail directly into the wind. Even in a modern sailboat we can only sail to within approximately 45 degrees of the wind. (The two courses: one with the wind on the port (left) side and the other with the wind on the starboard (right) side are referred to as <strong>lay lines</strong>.) In captain Robert’s schooner he may have had to sail even further off the wind, perhaps as much as 60 degrees. Given this necessity, we make progress to windward in a zig zag course first on one lay line then the other. Each zig is called a tack. From plain geometry we know that if we make only one zig and one zag or many of each we will traverse the same total distance. Assuming for simplicity that we want to make the destination with only one change of tack, we are left with the decision how far to travel along the first lay line before we change to the other. </p> <p>On Virago, we usually answer this question by setting a waypoint at the destination on our chart plotter. This provides a constant display of the bearing to the mark. We start on the lay line closest to the bearing and watch the display of the bearing to the mark until it lies on the lay line of the other tack. Then we tack. All well and good in this 21st century, but how would Captain Roberts have known when to tack? I found my answer in an entry in that same 1829 London Encyclopedia I used in my last post—this time its article “On Plying to Windward”.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-rFdyJwVLUuU/UYlTnpMNpLI/AAAAAAAABe4/KFnqx-TvS3s/s1600-h/On%252520Plying%252520to%252520Windward%25255B6%25255D.png"><img style="margin: 0px 5px 0px 0px; display: inline; float: left" title="On Plying to Windward" alt="On Plying to Windward" align="left" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-BtncGz551ss/UYlToWj_u7I/AAAAAAAABe8/YpwPFeAhh2M/On%252520Plying%252520to%252520Windward_thumb%25255B4%25255D.png?imgmax=800" width="274" height="701" /></a></p> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Tn5r2ZjcQfM/UYlTpUXzlfI/AAAAAAAABfE/pHKN77McRVg/s1600-h/Plying%252520to%252520windard%252520Problem%25255B13%25255D.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 0px 0px 5px; display: inline" title="Plying to windard Problem" alt="Plying to windard Problem" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kJ5G6uwcW3o/UYlTp6w1nrI/AAAAAAAABfI/cbtMXhKW4Yg/Plying%252520to%252520windard%252520Problem_thumb%25255B9%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="301" height="454" /></a> <p>The entry is shown on the left and an explanatory drawing of the problem above. To understand it I had to grapple with two issues. </p> <p>First, I had to understand the calculations. While rummaging around in some old memory cells I recalled the concept of logarithms. To make math more practical before calculators the author used log sines and number logarithms to turn multiplication and division into addition and subtraction. In practice, sailors often used a Gunter Rule (a precursor of the slide rule.) The logarithmic calculations were accomplished by using ordinary dividers much like pacing off distances on a latitude scale. I don’t know if Captain Roberts had a Gunter Rule, but he well could have.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GMukHVx78S0/UYlotpArB2I/AAAAAAAABf8/mZKsOVli5EM/s1600-h/Gunter%252520Rule%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Gunter Rule" alt="Gunter Rule" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-caeXB_-Zzwo/UYlouV3BVOI/AAAAAAAABgA/TwEFlzEi-aE/Gunter%252520Rule_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="578" height="212" /></a></p> <p>Second, I had to understand how a sailor might use this in practice. To make life simple, suppose I wish to sail from St John’s to Burin Newfoundland with only one tack. Motoring, I would go from St John’s to Cape Spear, to Cape Race, and to Burin’s sea buoy. This would usually be an impossible sail since the prevailing wind is from the Southwest (225º True). Assuming that Virago can tack through 90º, our two lay lines would be 180º and 270º. I would thus set out on the starboard lay line 180º, but when would I tack if I didn’t know when Cape Race was on my port lay line of 225º at Tack Pt 1?</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-gnwxnoikZxQ/UYloxNdCXoI/AAAAAAAABgI/9Ksr3-cphXU/s1600-h/Pro%252520Forma%252520ST%252520John%252527s%252520to%252520Burin%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Pro Forma ST John's to Burin" alt="Pro Forma ST John's to Burin" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-D7HkIMrDfTs/UYloxqFEOEI/AAAAAAAABgQ/4PKiybEMA1E/Pro%252520Forma%252520ST%252520John%252527s%252520to%252520Burin_thumb%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="591" height="443" /></a></p> <p>Here’s where the law of sines does its magic. Assume a triangle with angles a,b,and c and opposite sides of A,B, and C. The law tells us that sine a / A equals sine b / B and sine c / C. In our example: </p> <p><em>sine 90º/71 = sine 17º / port tack = sine 73º / starboard tack</em>.</p> <p>This is another way of saying what our 19th century author said. Being a creature of the 21st century, I chose to create a spreadsheet as my digital ‘Gunter Rule’ analog. Given this calculation no matter how done, I can see that I should sail for 68 miles on the starboard leg before tacking. Then I would sail for 21 miles before falling off at Cape Race for the reach to Burin.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Sg9To2-pxEc/UYloyWWR75I/AAAAAAAABgY/h3qPcUj_xro/s1600-h/Spreadsheet%252520Tacking%252520Angle%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img style="display: inline" title="Spreadsheet Tacking Angle" alt="Spreadsheet Tacking Angle" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSkqnZumyv-7Ie7DyNJGy0jyspqeLoiuJjwq5ZznhZiVyE4wc_G-1zKED_rXiWmGXh0jhGgtQrffRiXdosKyvr-G0DxOIkFwzoC4ET_Wv1_J0sjWKfyTsMGT0m6ZKpNzPmIMcH2s_ukWz6/?imgmax=800" width="593" height="311" /></a></p> <p>In practice, a sailor might choose to sail out to sea (where there is little to hit) at night and head for land during daylight when it is visible. Looking back at Captain Robert’s log, it looks like that was his strategy. He approached land at 1400 hours on July 13th then headed roughly East (away from land). Later he headed West again spotting Cape Race light at 0200 hours on July 14th and headed more Northward for Burin. Given the geometry, I might choose a similar strategy by sailing seaward from Cape Spear for one half the distance (34 miles), turn towards land for 10 miles, return to seaward for the other 34 miles, and then back to the West for the final 10 miles.</p> <p>In sum, I feel that I have satisfied my desire to understand Captain Robert’s dead reckoning well enough to expand my sailing repertoire. I am working with my navigator for the trip James English to experiment with dead reckoning as a practical procedure rather than just an ‘in case of electronic failure’ backup plane. We will report our results and observations this summer.</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-49368967519997991492013-03-26T08:41:00.000-07:002013-03-26T08:41:45.727-07:00Forensic Navigation -- Recreating a Route from an 1886 Schooner's Log<br />
Why would someone with over 10,000 miles of coastal cruising as well as a USCG 50 Ton Masters license pursue a US Sailing Coastal Passage Making certification? My best explanation is that my experience resembles a wheel of Swiss cheese - impressive looking, but full of holes. Take navigation for instance. Even after 18 years of experience cruising keel boats and passing the rigorous Coast Guard exam, I had a new experience in my Club Nautique Coastal Navigation class. As an exercise we plotted a course based only on a vessel log book. As with most textbook examples, it worked perfectly. I have to admit that my own log book is much too sparse to admit such perfection. Could I take what I had learned and apply it to a real life log which recorded heading and speed at regular intervals and whenever the vessel changed course?<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/109969494390324327462/31013?authkey=Gv1sRgCL7lu_X_9peUHg#5854608688653683714" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-fRnNlcQyogc/UT-_lVIeTAI/AAAAAAAABdY/oD4mG43CJYU/s400/2.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cover of Schooner Runnymede's Log Book</td></tr>
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As it happens, I do have such a log. My great grandfather-in-law Nathaniel Roberts was a sea captain sailing out of St John's, Newfoundland in the 1880s. The family still has his chart case containing charts, instruments, ephemeris, sailing directions, and the Book of Common Prayer. I was excited to view his charts with the hope that he had plotted his courses there. Alas, the good captain left his precious charts pristine. In addition to this legacy, a facsimile of his log from the schooner Runnymede has been printed by the Mystic Seaport Museum. That log has become my DIY kit for recreating and eventually following a voyage he made from St John's to Burin in 1886.<br />
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What type of vessel was she? There is a register of the British Merchant Navy for 1886 showing two
schooners named Runnymede out of St John's. On was of 53 tons and one was of 57 tons. Neither was owned by
Nathaniel Roberts. Looking at modern schooners and seeing that the highest speed he recorded in her log was 8 knots, I estimate her to have been about 80 ft overall with a 50 foot waterline. I will try to find more definitive info when I visit St John's this summer. <br />
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Here is the first page of the log describing the first day as he sailed out from St John's harbor. Consulting an almanac for that date obtained from the Google library, we can see that he left with the tide. This was wise as St John's harbor is long and narrow with step hills on either side. I don't know if British practice followed the American rules that gave sailors the Sabbath off except for when leaving or arriving at port, but perhaps not coincidentally July 11, 1886 was a Sunday.<br />
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There were of course other aspects of 18th century usage that raised questions:<br />
1: What did the column headings mean? 'H' meant hour, 'K' meant speed in knots, 'HK' meant additional half knot, 'Courses' probably meant course to steer given to the helmsman, although usage could vary, 'Winds' meant directions from which the wind blew and its strength (not strictly adhering to the Beaufort scale), 'Leeway' meant number of points course made good differed from the steered course, and 'Remarks' were just free form text.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/109969494390324327462/31013?authkey=Gv1sRgCL7lu_X_9peUHg#5854608711757972642" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9ATr1nzSNAo/UT-_mrM9xKI/AAAAAAAABdg/-Wfz7Y049Ic/s640/3.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="476" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pages for July 11 and 12 1886</td></tr>
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2: What are the times? Consulting period publications I found out that 19th century mariners usually kept time from noon to noon as opposed to midnight to midnight. This made sense at sea since the noon sight required precise determination of high noon. For this reason I interpret his locations 'by observation' to be his position at noon. It took some research to discover that the phrase 'on account' referred to what we nowadays call dead reconing.<br />
3: Are the bearings magnetic or true? Today, purists insist that we plot our courses and fill our log books with true bearings. In practice, small vessels usually use magnetic bearings. I plotted this course both ways and found no bearings that were impossible either way. With no hard evidence to go on, I chose to interpret his bearings as magnetic.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3UDFgJQHPKFZU7LWiA4BHlXiNhzZBvMu_UsOtCEOpc11o3DpZbg7tE-i6xQe97QC_7a9lzune2anRswIW95VqbdTcMmdCGs8KyGUFtiRZjDLqNPXOkhyG94h0_IHQJlLpp5X6fBlhia0/s1600/The+32+Points+of+the+Compass.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img alt="" border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN3UDFgJQHPKFZU7LWiA4BHlXiNhzZBvMu_UsOtCEOpc11o3DpZbg7tE-i6xQe97QC_7a9lzune2anRswIW95VqbdTcMmdCGs8KyGUFtiRZjDLqNPXOkhyG94h0_IHQJlLpp5X6fBlhia0/s320/The+32+Points+of+the+Compass.bmp" title="Table of 32 Compass Points" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">32 Points of the Compass</td></tr>
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4: How do we translate his 32 point compass readings into degrees? Since there are 360 degrees in a circle, each 32nd must be 11.25 degrees. The easiest way to translate this is with a table like this one.<br />
5: How do we convert his magnetic bearings to true so we can plot his courses? The Newfoundland Almanac for 1886 gives the variation as 32 degrees and 30 seconds (p. 5). Given the degrees magnetic, all navigators know that since "Timid Virgins Make Dull Companions--Add West" means we should subtract the West variation to correct his magnetic bearings to true.<br />
6: How did he do his 'accounting' or what we call dead reckoning? I can't be sure, but my go in assumption is that he recorded his speed for every two hour period and whenever he changed course.<br />
7: How did he establish his true position? In the 1829 edition of The London Encyclopedia, the Navigation entry says that navigators are adept at determining the distance to landmarks and thus consider the bearing and distance to a landmark an accurate fix.<br />
8: Did he use celestial navigation? We have one entry where he listed one latitude 'on account' (by dead reckoning) and another latitude 'by observation' (noon sighting.) Their distance apart of six miles is considered acceptable.<br />
9: Besides navigation information, what do the Remarks tell us? I interpret the liberal sprinkling of boiler plate like "crew employed as duty required" and "pumps attended to" as an indication that his log was subject to review by the ship's owners. <br />
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I decided that my first step was to transcribe the log as best I could to make it more easily accessible<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/109969494390324327462/31013?authkey=Gv1sRgCL7lu_X_9peUHg#5854608730532917682" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-t61ekoyGEqM/UT-_nxJQsbI/AAAAAAAABdo/d6-ve-9f49U/s640/4.jpg" style="margin: 5px;" width="590" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Transcription of Pages for July 11 and 12 1886</td></tr>
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My second step was to develop a technique for plotting the fixes found in the Remarks that could be electronically illustrated. Let's take the very first one:"5 pm Cape Spear bore North by West distant 3 miles." From our table we see that North by West equals 348 degrees and 45 seconds. To correct this to true we subtract 32 degrees 30 seconds yeilding 316 degrees and 15 seconds. Typically we need to take the reciprical of the bearing to the landmark and plot our bearing line from the landmark to the vessel. The reciprocal is calculated by subtracting 180 degrees giving us a bearing of 136 degrees and 15 seconds. Along this line we measure the distance and <i>voila</i> we have our fix.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dpjEa1_c72Rk5IYGatFkfegrKvikkUlq0bMb3BZNTzj7Bf8B4D2TQ_Eqg4xnzYaqvLoxCVY2uCB8YwvLiB7NdsMu90CnEYFn0XBS0l9nzq2XttCdz-h0pPSD2BLlFmleyVC-sTluWeB_/s1600/First+Sight.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6dpjEa1_c72Rk5IYGatFkfegrKvikkUlq0bMb3BZNTzj7Bf8B4D2TQ_Eqg4xnzYaqvLoxCVY2uCB8YwvLiB7NdsMu90CnEYFn0XBS0l9nzq2XttCdz-h0pPSD2BLlFmleyVC-sTluWeB_/s320/First+Sight.JPG" width="301" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First Sighting in iNavX</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjonqBhL5J0wX0AcGqgAw6WlrcJvmi_JLWri4slTbNejUzDH7zwInIEgmbqAL59DqasqIxbF1hCT42z8oN-ng1i0Bmj7BXIDENHtjzzzuc5N_jCOIQxJOv_IRFg-fTXifsBh_wWYxzayigA/s320/Runnymede+July+1886+Route.PNG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="262" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Route of July 1886 in iNavX</td></tr>
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My tool of choice for this exercise was iNavX on my iPad. By using the range tool I can draw a vector from Cape Spear outward for 3 nautical miles at a bearing of 136 degrees. Then I can add a waypoint at that position and label it July 11 1700. By a similar procedure I can enter all the waypoints for this particular trip.<br />
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My third step was to create a route in iNavX linking all of the waypoints.The tool calculates all the individual bearings and distances of the legs of the trip. In addition it shows the total distance of 207 nautical. It took the Runnymede just about a week to make the 207 mile trip we see in this overview. iNavX also allows exporting the route to a KML file readable by Google Earth.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi19FhpKObJKFib-hUQticGmTJK8HiMMDbQgAG2NPMb2cMOxT_29mXIZNYPDgmMcSSqgf9ztUAzmsNLwigc33BOdsFeXLPnawP4aSUv4c3zq2o89LXXv-zcaW6c0F8tuaXNlK1hd1k5yEyG/s1600/Runnymede+July+1886+Overview.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="472" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi19FhpKObJKFib-hUQticGmTJK8HiMMDbQgAG2NPMb2cMOxT_29mXIZNYPDgmMcSSqgf9ztUAzmsNLwigc33BOdsFeXLPnawP4aSUv4c3zq2o89LXXv-zcaW6c0F8tuaXNlK1hd1k5yEyG/s640/Runnymede+July+1886+Overview.png" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chart of Route in July 1886in iNavX</td></tr>
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My fourth step was to follow the bi-hourly entries line by line to recreate an 'account' or as we call it, a dead reckoning. To date, this effort has been a frustration. To take an obvious example, notice the time gap between the last entry for July 11 and the first entry for July 12. There appear to be no entries for a twenty four hour period. In addition, there are times when he recorded lite winds and yet showed three knot speeds. I am incredulous that his 18th century schooner was capable of making three knots in lite winds. I have tried to recreate the dead reckoning of each leg of this trip as well as the return voyage he made in August of the same year. So far, no luck. I hope his log keeping was not as sparse as my own.<br />
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So, what is the net of all this effort?<br />
1: First it is a fascinating exercise in navigation putting to use some of my training.<br />
2: Second, it has pulled me into my wife's family history and piqued our interest in taking Virago from Mane to St John's. To that end, I am planning a cruise from Portland, Maine to St John's Newfoundland and back to Bar Harbor, Maine this summer. On the leg from Burin to St John's I will make an effort to recreate at least some of Captain Roberts' sightings.<br />
3: Third, it has made me more conscious of how valuable a well kept log might be in the future. I intend to be more diligent in my log keeping on any upcoming trip.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQMsGstduH5YglZ7JdnEevz9KEtf4L7ruqkHjWQJQCP-74mZwj-v67K__M8NxJKKLf_e8m7u15DVzn3MWvVODd1ZZsWYrD_gGNcsBYFaB3Hkl38cU6AXu5EXG-jFWlQRAgzldowxwD-fc/s1600/St+Johns+to+Bar+Harbor.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="384" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigQMsGstduH5YglZ7JdnEevz9KEtf4L7ruqkHjWQJQCP-74mZwj-v67K__M8NxJKKLf_e8m7u15DVzn3MWvVODd1ZZsWYrD_gGNcsBYFaB3Hkl38cU6AXu5EXG-jFWlQRAgzldowxwD-fc/s640/St+Johns+to+Bar+Harbor.bmp" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Google Earth View of Upcoming Trip in a KML File.</td></tr>
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<br />Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-27899021255105688342012-04-23T15:26:00.001-07:002012-04-23T15:31:04.171-07:00First Weather DelayAs most of you know, Virago has spent the winter on the hard in Yarmouth, Maine. It was due for launch today, April 23rd, but launch has been postponed until tomorrow, the 24th. No big deal, but after 8,000 nautical miles of travel it's the first wait for a weather window! With good luck, we will take her to her summer mooring in Harpswell, Maine tomorrow.Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-84347552219942607982011-08-21T21:11:00.001-07:002011-08-21T21:15:01.718-07:00Isla Mujeres, Mexico to Ft. Lauderdale, Florida<p><b><u>Trip Summary: <b><u>5/13/11</u></b><b><u> to 5/27/11 </u></b></u></b></p> <p><strong><u>By Bill Eddy</u></strong></p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="438" border="3"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="143"> <p align="center"><strong>Ports</strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="71"> <p align="right"><strong> Nautical Miles </strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="53"> <p align="right"><strong>Total <br />Hours</strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="47"> <p align="right"><strong><u>Avg. <br /></u>Speed</strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right"><strong>Sailing <br />Hours</strong></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right"><strong>Sailing <br />%</strong></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="137"> <p>Isla Mujeres, Mx To </p> <p>Dry Tortugas, US</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="71"> <p align="right">298</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="53"> <p align="right">41.5</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="47"> <p align="right">7.18</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right">0</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59">0</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="134"> <p>Dry Tortugas To </p> <p>Key West, Florida </p> </td> <td valign="top" width="71"> <p align="right">63</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="53"> <p align="right">9.0</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="47"> <p align="right">7.00</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right">0</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right">0</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="133"> <p>Key West, To </p> <p>Ft. Lauderdale, Florida</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="71"> <p align="right">169</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="53"> <p align="right">26.3</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="47"> <p align="right">6.42</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right">0</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right">0</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="133">Totals:</td> <td valign="top" width="71"> <p align="right">530</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="53"> <p align="right">76.8</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="47"> <p align="right">6.90</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right">0</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="59"> <p align="right">0</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <p><b><u>Virago Crew:</u></b></p> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p>Paul Goss, Captain (Retired Business Consultant)</p> <p>Bill Eddy, (Retired HR Exec)</p> <p>Robin Matt, (Labor Arbitrator)</p> <p><b><u>Day by Day Comments and Data:</u></b></p> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p><b><u>Friday, 5/13/11:</u></b></p> <p>Travel Day for Bill—Left Oakland at 9:52am. Good US Air flights on time on all counts. ADO Bus for 45 Pesos to Central Cancun taxi terminal, 50 Peso taxi to ferry terminal, and 70 Peso ferry ride from Cancun to Isla Mujeres. Arrived at Isla Mujeres and the Marina Pariaso and Virago at 1215 Saturday. My Captain Paul had a nice cool Vodka waiting for me and we visited and settled in. Robin had arrived earlier in the day from LAX and was sleeping below after a long travel day.</p> <p><b><u>Saturday, 5/15/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0700 to start boat tasks, including total exterior wash down and a food/supplies inventory. Virago had been in a local boatyard for a bottom job and had all the usual dirt and yard scum on her. Temps in the 80’s in the am to 90’s in the pm. Best to do boat tasks in the mornings to beat the heat. In the afternoon, we taxied to the hotel zone for a tour and our first supply run at our favorite Express Market. There were few people in town, given that it was the low season due to heat. Upon return to the boat, we had sundowner cocktails and a pork chop and rice dinner on board. Paul and Robin did the cooking.</p> <p><b><u>Sunday, 5/16/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0630 for tasks. These included a thorough interior sanitize and organization. Paul went up the mast for mast light and Windex repairs and general rig inspection. Upon inspection he found that the Windex was shot due to corrosion so complete replacement would be needed later.</p> <p>In the pm, we went to town again ($3US taxi for all 3 of us per trip) for more shopping and back to the boat. After sundowner beers, we went to the Soggy Peso shore side palapa for rib night. Paul had discovered this place in the weeks before while he was in bed and breakfast mode. They run a different special every night at reasonable prices. By the time we got there at 6pm, they had run out of ribs. However, the place was really unique with lots of sailors at the bar. We went to town to Angelos for a nice dinner of ribs of course. Like so many other Mexican ports we have visited, the natives and tourists didn’t start to gather for dinner until 8-9pm to beat the heat.</p> <p>On the way back to the boat around 9pm we walked to the town plaza (zocallo) where they had the Isla Mujeres cultural song and dance night going on. The stage backdrop was the Palacio Municipal, the city hall that was all lit up in colored lights. They had a sound system for the music, and the plaza was filled with friends and relatives of the performers, along with us tourists. It was a little “hokie” but sure fun to watch in the warm evening. We next returned to the Express Market to buy our final bottled waters, all we could reasonably carry and taxied back to the boat.</p> <p>Upon return, we found that the couple in an Anteres 44 Catamaran adjacent to us had appropriated our boat steps. It wasn’t entirely clear why they took them, but we had a friendly talk with them and retrieved the steps for our departure tomorrow. We think they thought that the harbor master had given them the steps, or that they thought they were theirs. No harm done.</p> <p><b><u>Monday, 5/16/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0700 for breakfast and prep work for departure, a day earlier than our schedule. Mild temperatures today. 76 inside and 81 degrees outside. This is the coolest temps we have experienced in Isla. Sky clear and light breeze at 5-8k NE. Upon final departure rig inspection, we found that both forward running lights were not working. Thus, we delayed our am departure and worked all morning and up until 3pm fixing the fixtures and wiring. It looked like corrosion had eaten the wiring connections on both fixtures and we did not have a spare set so these needed to be refurbished until we could get to the US and a marine store. While this was going on, we did get our passports stamped and Paul got us cleared out of Mexico officially.</p> <p>At 3:55pm, we cleared our berth at Marina Pariaso, out of Isla Mujeres harbor and into the Yucatan Channel. Light breeze, calm sea state, and had to motor to make progress. Around 7:30pm, we had peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, and cantaloupe for dinner. Nobody was really hungry. We tried our new water flavoring in the small squeeze bottle and it was just as good as the powdered Nestea flavoring we had used in the past. However, with this, all you have to do is put a drop or two in a regular water bottle and shake it up. Much more convenient. We started our watch schedule at 8pm. With only 3 crew, Bill and Robin teamed for 8-midnight, Paul alone from midnight to 4, and Bill and Robin back for the 4-8am shift. Paul kind of got the shaft being alone with us on standby, but hopefully some alone time was good for mind clearing. During the night we passed the cruise ship Carnival Legend doing 6.4k for Cozumel and two freighters heading for Houston and Mississippi at 18k @. </p> <p>On shift,we averaged around 8k, motoring with a robust 1k following sea and a 20 degree cross track. Full moon, wind at 2.0-5.0k NE, warm and flat sea state. No sailing possible, but good for sleeping below at least. Six ships passed us in the night heading south and west.</p> <p><b><u>Tuesday, 5/17/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0400 for shift change. After Paul briefed us on conditions, Robin and I split the 4 hour shift in two. Seas still calm, wind 2-9k in wrong direction for progress without motor. At 0815, Paul came up after well deserved rest. We had fresh brewed coffee, fresh cut pineapple, hard cooked eggs and toast. Our friend Harry would be proud of us.</p> <p>Mid morning, the forward head blew up on Robin. Reason unknown, but required lots of nasty cleanup. Will fix later and simply use the aft head for all of us until further notice.</p> <p>At 1115, we passed the Carnival Inspiration heading to Cozumel from Miami. Thus far, all the sea life we have seen have been a very few flying fish. None have landed on the boat yet. We have covered 122nm by 0900 of the 298 mile leg. We expect to arrive at the Dry Tortugas Islands by mid day tomorrow.</p> <p>We motored all day, took naps and Paul tried to fix the forward head. At that point it looked like a hose connection was loose so we think we are back in business. At sunset, a pair of little swallows came on board. Real love birds, and very unusual to see typical land based birds this far out in the ocean. Before 2000 shift, we had a nice beef stroganoff dinner and fresh fruit. We had been snacking on fruit, and chips and guacamole all day. By 2000 shift start, we were still motoring in the moonlight, in 2k breeze with a 2 knot following sea, 85 degrees and 3-5 foot swells. Great motoring weather if we had to do this. We were 70 miles north of Cuba in 8000 feet of water in the Gulf of Mexico.</p> <p><b><u>Wednesday, 5/18/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0400 for 4-8 watch. Still no wind, full moon and 85 degrees. Only 2-3 freighters passed on Paul’s watch. At 0800, Virago arrived at the first Dry Tortugas marker. We followed the very narrow channel into the anchorage adjacent to the incredible Fort Jefferson. (See Pictures and brochures) We dropped anchor at 0930 in 15-20 feet of powder blue to white water. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="573" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="286"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--V0tVvlPeHY/TlHWqpaz6qI/AAAAAAAABYQ/JiwGtRo0fAA/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520574%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 574" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="209" alt="Spring 2011 574" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-FB8pzVWyE4E/TlHWq5A-1uI/AAAAAAAABYU/bj63iXPg4O8/Spring%2525202011%252520574_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="277" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="285"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-565BAhxVcwA/TlHWrRzXCTI/AAAAAAAABYY/02L-PbiDP8A/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520578%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 578" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="209" alt="Spring 2011 578" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4WKAXGJJqco/TlHWr7IeW3I/AAAAAAAABYc/AYe3oAIklyM/Spring%2525202011%252520578_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="277" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="286"> <p align="center">We Approach Fort Jefferson</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="285"> <p align="center">Rub a Dub Dub – Robin Rows Us Ashore</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="578" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="230"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-yJs1HYagf3s/TlHWsd_oNgI/AAAAAAAABYg/LBVW-j69bXI/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520580%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 580" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="272" alt="Spring 2011 580" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-e6qW4w_JVhI/TlHWskCjbJI/AAAAAAAABYk/u4-J2Ip0e50/Spring%2525202011%252520580_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="205" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="346"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-GuENLUpBnEA/TlHWsyddYnI/AAAAAAAABYo/qXgwmMhqoJY/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520645%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 645" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="267" alt="Spring 2011 645" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-7WQMjAhHiIA/TlHWtS-0xHI/AAAAAAAABYs/R8rqMRsmlks/Spring%2525202011%252520645_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="356" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="230"> <p align="center">Toyot Establishes a Beachhead</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="346">Robin Disguised as Stormtrooper Rows Back to Virago</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>Remarkably, in literally the middle of nowhere, we met a fellow C-470 owner, anchored next to us. He was Carl Smeigh, the 470 group technical editor for Mainsheet Magazine, on his 470 “Southern Cross”. Carl lives in St. Petersburg Florida. After much Catalina yacht talk, Carl took Paul on his dinghy to the fort to register for our one night stay in the anchorage. Ft. Jefferson is managed by the US Park Service and Paul was charged $5 per person for the stay.</p> <p>We launched Toyot for a row into the beach and a self guided tour of the extremely large and impressive fort. Robin did the rowing to shore and we spent 3 hours on the walking tour of the property. This was the largest of the Union forts to guard against a Confederate invasion by sea of the lower US and Florida areas. The fort, while essentially finished over several years, never had a battle. There was no water, and vegetation to speak of on these few sand spits of islands. However, millions of birds and turtles. Given its isolated location, the Union army used the fort for a prison for its deserters and other enemies of the north. Life was extremely harsh there and escape not a good option. Ft. Jefferson was built entirely of bricks, hauled by sailing vessels from the Maine area. Millions of them, so many, that the weight of the fort started to sink the near sea level island. This is a huge fort, 3-4 stories tall, massive in armament and gun galleries, with a deep moat all the way around it. Hard to describe how formidable this thing is.</p> <p>After our walking tour, Robin rowed us back to Virago where all 3 of us took a swim in the 80 degree, crystal clear water. We had cocktail time then a pasta and meat sauce dinner with fresh vegetables. We plan to leave around 0600 tomorrow, following Carl out the northern anchorage exit to Key West, where he was heading home. By 8pm the wind was again calm, and there were 6 other sailboats and a couple of motor yachts in the anchorage. After dishes cleaned, we relaxed and hit the rack at 2200.</p> <p>Note: The fort has a constant stream of tourists each day from Key West. They arrived by fast ferry and seaplanes each morning, stayed the day and returned home in the afternoon. </p> <p><b><u>Thursday, 5/19/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0515 for departure to Key West, leaving the anchorage at 0620 for open ocean. With his many trips to the Dry Tortugas, Carl confidently guided us out of the anchorage and we buddy boated along, under power. Wind light and on the nose so no sailing today. We had coffee and toast for breakfast, and cup of noodles and fruit for lunch. By noon, we were adjacent to the Marquesas Keys between Dry Tortugas and Key West. Once used as a Navy bombing range, the totally deserted keys were rich with vegetation and palm trees. Quite a difference from the baron Tortugas. Reminded me of a South Pacific Atoll. All the keys for the rest of the leg up to Key West were rich with vegetation, many with fancy homes and resorts dotting their shores, and lots of boats anchored around them. A boaters paradise for sure.</p> <p>We arrived outside the main channel to enter Key West, and Paul called the West Bight Marina to get a slip and directions. We had considered anchoring out, but the anchorage was a mile or two from land/docks, and without an outboard motor would have been too much work for us to transit. At our crew’s age, we may not have made it rowing. As we approached the town, we passed a small Royal Caribbean cruise ship docked and many other boats coming and going. After getting 30 gallons of fuel, we docked Virago at 1530. Paul made contact with Customs and Immigration and gave them enough information so we could stay and go ashore. We would have to go to the airport here to finalize customs check in and get passports stamped tomorrow.</p> <p>After securing Virago we all took showers and went to town for dinner at the famous Turtle Kraals. A very good place for happy hour, our CDA, and comfort food. We landed in their rooftop bar overlooking the harbor and the northeast end of town. Quite picturesque. We had cheese burgers, cheese fries, grilled onions and coleslaw for $6.50, and $2.50 beers. Kind of like “Cheeseburgers in Paradise” in Key West. Paul and Robin’s burgers were not done well enough for their tastes, but perfect for me. Note: Didn’t stop Robin from cleaning his plate however. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="555" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-p1d9bdRQBH4/TlHWubK8BpI/AAAAAAAABYw/06aoAEKRLoc/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520651%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 651" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="257" alt="Spring 2011 651" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-qf44Q_tRLDE/TlHWvCQb3iI/AAAAAAAABY0/-3MoyzdvLdA/Spring%2525202011%252520651_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="341" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="253"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-pvGrZ2HJ3T4/TlHWvk7hrsI/AAAAAAAABY4/jr7-5F2Wzow/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520650%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 650" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="257" alt="Spring 2011 650" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-s8vjqwDjDeA/TlHWvyShfcI/AAAAAAAABY8/Ey_W3TL4dvQ/Spring%2525202011%252520650_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="194" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Heading for Upper Level Dining at Turtle Kraals</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="253"> <p align="center">Sign Points to Portland, Maine</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>After dinner, we took the “Harbor Walk” around the city’s entire outer edge tourist areas. Hundreds of bars and restaurants, food booths, gift shops, craft stands, boutique shops of all kinds, street entertainers (jugglers, fortune tellers, escape artists, fire eaters, skate boarders, and street mimes and musicians). </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-G9cKbDeAxDY/TlHWwheTeEI/AAAAAAAABZE/jONM5L2_eKs/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520664%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 664" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Spring 2011 664" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-sjEwj520R70/TlHWw_8DXrI/AAAAAAAABZI/LrIDwRYJgMU/Spring%2525202011%252520664_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXDwZTmQDOA3wduwb2qiMloYjnF_kWq7Tm8SeN3qtqs8eVIY9egUstooX89vlwhPHHJjDJhj1KdUMF42xi96jSfStHQRyajY8GDRSwyv2rM8XMIbSHOJPNixcGGFtU3o5zlA-n8cWGz9v4/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520655%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 655" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="211" alt="Spring 2011 655" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dXSIrAVHOKs/TlHWx5o7E8I/AAAAAAAABZQ/lhjb0fvowpc/Spring%2525202011%252520655_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ra1O9Rv3PiA/TlHWyWC_TBI/AAAAAAAABZU/LGOQoKs9nFM/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520657%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 657" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="214" alt="Spring 2011 657" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-c2nI8sfeHHA/TlHWyoAF3rI/AAAAAAAABZY/1up-OXkIVys/Spring%2525202011%252520657_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5VhYkWiXtFM/TlHWzYkgZvI/AAAAAAAABZc/8lnipE11vy0/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520658%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 658" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="208" alt="Spring 2011 658" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZdbCr3ecAwrE1NUxPEWuDfmOtRoophm54tfj2R_K3VLF6i9j309RvIFveb-mQpCyWRCBn9SJbHS3qSPX6dI3I4HoEV_iZltX9JS6LdQgSLmdTOeDjaQERiURBbtHUPPz_sZleY5q1GazK/?imgmax=800" width="276" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-xUZYvOhCD-c/TlHW0ug2NzI/AAAAAAAABZk/9DaPLP8fEmc/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520659%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 659" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="266" alt="Spring 2011 659" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-i-SYwq8Uweg/TlHW06uO2bI/AAAAAAAABZo/rNregvKGPww/Spring%2525202011%252520659_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="354" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-x2SdTMUEVKs/TlHW1l28LAI/AAAAAAAABZs/QNjhxmpynlw/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520663%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 663" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="267" alt="Spring 2011 663" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-VC3sYhWnChQ/TlHW2FEr9vI/AAAAAAAABZw/-xoQT5kEzVU/Spring%2525202011%252520663_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="201" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>As we traversed the walk, at least 8 heavily loaded sunset cruise sailing vessels headed by downtown. The bars were full and the whole scene was noisy and vibrant. The hotels and condos that line the shore were beautiful, most with ocean and bay views. We say museums, theaters and the central town park full of statues of the cities founding fathers.</p> <p>After our walking tour, we returned to the boat for refreshments and calls home. Great to have strong cell phone coverage. Off to bed at 2230.</p> <p><b><u>Friday, 5/20/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0700 for coffee and toast. At 0840, we headed off to the Key West International Airport by bus, to check in as instructed yesterday afternoon. We took one of the muni bus lines around the town and got a great sightseeing tour. We noted a broad range of home styles and quality. Lots of New Orleans style two story wood homes with large porches. We passed 100’s of small inns and hotels, various inlets full of boats, and the usual sad ghettos. </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-wGQN2Ghh2T0/TlHW2i6ljYI/AAAAAAAABZ0/CWL0NCGS8oE/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520680%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 680" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="264" alt="Spring 2011 680" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-nDhJhwO9ALg/TlHW3D3Ka2I/AAAAAAAABZ4/JA1jncevJrY/Spring%2525202011%252520680_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="350" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-TKT5bbFyVk8/TlHW3garnRI/AAAAAAAABZ8/uENAhFaldYY/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520252%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 252" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="264" alt="Spring 2011 252" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-P7s0rOG4D0I/TlHW4OmNv3I/AAAAAAAABaA/aUMrDgprH4c/Spring%2525202011%252520252_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="198" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>FIASCO!! At the airport we found that the customs and immigration officers were all at the cruise dock checking in a Carnival Cruise Line ship. We were told to come back after 1300 to see them. We waited 25 minutes for the next bus back to our docking area. Another sightseeing tour on that route, but no customs results. Back at the boat we gathered and washed our laundry, and did minor tasks on the boat. </p> <p>At 1400, we again headed to the airport, on yet another sightseeing route and got our documents cleared and the boat checked into the US. Everything went smoothly and there were no “funny fees” to pay like Belize. <em>(Captain’s note: We did have to order a decal from the Homeland Security Administration for $27. I pointed out that Virago had entered San Diego from Mexico without one and the official said, “Those guys don’t follow procedures.”) </em>Robin and I got off the bus mid route at a Winn-Dixie store where we got minor supplies for the rest of our trip to Lauderdale. Once done, we taxied back to the boat with our groceries and put the purchases away. I transferred fuel from deck jugs to the empty port tank, leaving only 6 gallons still in deck.</p> <p>At 1930 we had pasta and beef bowl for dinner then finished tasks. By 2000 we were relaxing in the cockpit after a big day of riding busses and wasting our time with the Homeland Security processes. A necessary evil! At 2100 Paul and I went in search of a good Key West dive bar with some music. We found the famous Green Parrot, with full bluegrass band, packed house of characters (locals mostly), and loud. </p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPRZyg-EXPyMlWcc-fl7pb5a07tf1C5rd3m7Pyfr-7YeoDZ_k0ideHng5AEBkySS8ljWfHxONzXc_Cc69iTARMOxJGFVCFXyqn5VhkrUpFZDHP7kH4O6VZvJpbtgeXyNoVZz2HQLhWekxr/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520273%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 273" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="217" alt="Spring 2011 273" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Lw29i8rUo58/TlHW4zizCQI/AAAAAAAABaI/-YkmwywDiLE/Spring%2525202011%252520273_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="289" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-nvjzgKTbjmQ/TlHW5mKtYKI/AAAAAAAABaM/jOXCEB46l_4/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520275%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 275" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="216" alt="Spring 2011 275" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-d_I1BpKQc-s/TlHW57Xz3iI/AAAAAAAABaQ/bCVWQx5s8WQ/Spring%2525202011%252520275_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="289" border="0" /></a></p> <p>We then moved next door for better music. Just as we sat down and ordered a drink, the band played their last song and packed up. Should have asked. We finished our drinks and walked around the endless entertainment district and listened to 5-6 more bands. </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XFdd3mVUbYM/TlHW6iyJ1xI/AAAAAAAABaU/0vBJikdUf7U/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520676%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 676" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="216" alt="Spring 2011 676" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-yKLqMNIIVeI/TlHW6wuPGBI/AAAAAAAABaY/zqsKyyx8wso/Spring%2525202011%252520676_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="287" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/--k8yEEh908M/TlHW7u0ky3I/AAAAAAAABac/P2U7k1gjaY0/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520264%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 264" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Spring 2011 264" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iKvPmaqFmlk/TlHW8DQFk-I/AAAAAAAABag/7zliozpF-PM/Spring%2525202011%252520264_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>The bars and sidewalks were packed with party folks, numerous bachelor and bachelorette parties and such. Unreal atmosphere. Drinking on the streets is legal in a plastic cup. We were told that there are 300 bars and clubs in town. Notwithstanding the customs/immigration fiasco, that delay led to a fun time seeing this unique town for an extra day. Paul and I were home by 1215 for sleep. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-giwmQNbQ8Jk/TlHW8lHHctI/AAAAAAAABak/5VuHBaB0MxE/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520670%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 670" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="372" alt="Spring 2011 670" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-dBO6JiC1x70/TlHW9PI-HGI/AAAAAAAABao/c2CFijl1QS0/Spring%2525202011%252520670_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs13oDcnSLl8m2JyiwGM9f3rLP-h7rzcavXOYmvt8SpIOqat_Nf4WQqbpwqbop6dNl5Wtab_udkQ-grmWaxMgiVSNE5j74wtP48WUfyqOUNXdq0Crm1Mo5Dv2hQiv0ZoGRiHqo4lTpzMyo/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520668%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 668" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="373" alt="Spring 2011 668" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-VmLj69lnWBs/TlHW9x9zi8I/AAAAAAAABaw/zWXjd--aPP4/Spring%2525202011%252520668_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-z6wu4UXBcH4/TlHW-gkMjgI/AAAAAAAABa0/LIzLP5fa0H4/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520667%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 667" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="443" alt="Spring 2011 667" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-AXl1gQAvxI0/TlHW_HmKRtI/AAAAAAAABa4/udUclAZaEPI/Spring%2525202011%252520667_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="591" align="left" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600">Everybody wants to get into the act!  These are amusing sculptures on the grounds of the old city hall. Key West is truly a party town.</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghyphenhyphenXfruk5vpoyZgSCh3Rl-O3Dp8zWL4t-YR60_jY_M3063n3lssehOPsh0J-v_-eE6VkhJxmAenbTUik7SpVEPAmhTOGk5wAZbdt7DkpWW9UKXZBMkwYfOn1sexV-parshDZ-beT9fR6e4/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520271%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 271" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="443" alt="Spring 2011 271" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-RYxC03ouBp8/TlHXANjiO4I/AAAAAAAABbA/xQO2Ofl7i8M/Spring%2525202011%252520271_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="332" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300">Key West is the Southern terminus for US Route 1 which has its Northern terminus in Fort Kent, Maine. BTW: The captain has been there also, but not by boat.</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b><u>Saturday, 5/21/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0700 to start the departure process and tasks. We had a nice apple pancake and coffee breakfast, cleared the deck of fuel cans and misc. stuff, hosed the boat off, filled the water tanks and took off for Ft. Lauderdale at 1050.</p> <p>We exited past the now empty cruise docks, around the city front and out into the Straits of Florida. It was a clear day, 5-8k breeze, flat sea, mid 80’s, and easterly wind on the nose. No sailing for now. Our route took us up the entire chain of keys at 5 miles off shore at the most. We were just outside the various barrier reefs and inside the shipping lanes. Very pleasant conditions, viewing all the islands and their connecting bridges and causeways from the water. Again, a boater’s paradise. The only excitement was on Channel 16 from the Coast Guard. Subjects included a would be bridge leaper in Marathon, a red flare sighting off Biscayne Bay, and a PLB set off near Miami.</p> <p>Dinner was served at 1900 by Robin. It was the long anticipated Polynesian Surprise (see pictures) This is a concoction of beans, span cubes, pineapple and seasonings we think. It was served in a bowl with bread. One of my pictures is of our Captain actually eating it with a smile on his face. Good fun!! Where is Harry when we need him. The rest of the evening we maintained our same watch schedule that saw 10-12 cargo ships passing n/s about 6 miles off our starboard side in the shipping lanes. Breeze seemed good but on the nose. No sailing yet. Between the reefs and the shipping lanes, we really didn’t have a lot of room to sail anyway, and get to Lauderdale in a timely fashion.</p> <p><b><u>Sunday, 5/22/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0400 to partial moonlight, a view of Key Largo, 8-11k breeze on the starboard bow. At 0200 Paul had deployed the jib for stability and a sail attempt. The current was favorable and by 0500 we were motor sailing at 8 plus knots in 7-10k breeze. However, no true sailing was going to happen. By 0530 we could see Biscayne Bay, the last key area and the large Miami skyline in the distance.</p> <p>Special Note: Around 0500, in the dark, we passed within 75’ of a large catamaran with 4 crew in the cockpit. We were on opposite headings. The important point is that this very large cat left no radar image on our set at close range settings at all. We know our radar is golden as we saw all kinds of other objects all trip and after this incident. Shows the importance of watch personnel on deck observing at all times. We altered heading by a few degrees for safety once we saw the vessel.</p> <p>By 0800, we were off So. Miami Beach and floated by the entire city front. We were so close we could see some of the much televised So. Beach hotels. The entire waterfront was full of 30-40 story condos and office building of all shapes and sizes. Boats were everywhere. We had breakfast of cheese toast and coffee and continued to motor to the entrance to the Port Everglades/Ft. Lauderdale port channel. We entered the channel with tanker and freighter traffic, and stopped until the 17<sup>th</sup> Street drawbridge was to open. We were right in front of the Princess Cruises terminal where Nora and I embark on our cruises. The only cruise ship in the big harbor was the Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas, one of the biggest such ships there is. Once the drawbridge opened we motored up to the entrance of the New River that goes roughly into the downtown area of Ft. Lauderdale. We turned to port. Had we turned starboard at the intersection, we would have been in the continuing Inter-coastal waterway. Along the New, we saw hundreds of beautiful water/channel front homes, many with very large motor yachts docked in front of them. Our destination was the Old Town Marina in the thick of the condos and the famous River Walk of Ft. Lauderdale. We found our slip and side tied at 1210 hours.</p> <p><b><i><u>Special Note:</u></i></b> This docking marks the last leg of my journey with Paul, after close to 5000 nautical miles of cruising on Virago, starting in October of 2009 in Alameda, CA. What fun!! Paul is continuing on to Maine from here, to arrive amid fireworks in his favorite anchorage of all time.</p> <p>We’re side tied right on the River Walk amid the high-rise condos and restaurant areas. On the shore side are walkers and their pets, on the water side is the river channel with its never ending stream of boats traversing the area. We will see the harbormaster later on to figure out where we really are and how to access services here. We all called home. Good to hear Nora’s voice and catch up on home items. 85 degrees inside Virago and 93 outside.</p> <p>We spent the afternoon putting things away, decanting the last of the deck fuel jugs into our tanks, cleared the deck and went ashore for walk and a shower. Little did I know that the shower was a 25 minute walk in the humid heat up the River Walk . Robin and Paul showered on the boat as I should have done with 20/20 hindsight. The boys went to the market so Robin could use the ATM and Paul could pick up some items for dinner. At 1745, with fresh clothes and body, I relaxed in the cockpit with a vodka until the shoppers returned. At 1900 we had takeout dinner on board, and hit the sack at 2100.</p> <p><b><u>Monday, 5/23/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0745 after much needed sleep. Robin and I walked up to a local Starbucks for coffee and to use their head, since ours was a 25 minute walk. Upon return, we had coffee and planned out boat mtce tasks for the remaining time Robin and I had on board. Paul went by bus to the closest West Marine and got parts to fix the forward head. Upon his return we walked to the harbormaster’s office and got good info on local facilities, vendors and drawbridge operations. We also set up our boat move up the river to a better section of marina called Cooley’s Landing Marina for tomorrow morning. According to </p> <p>the office staff, our move must be done on slack tide between 0945 and 1030 hours.</p> <p>We went to the Publix Market for supplies and returned to the boat for tasks. We did deck surface rust removal while Paul worked on the head and Robin cleaned out the refer/freezer boxes. Paul made another trip to West Marine for some electrical parts for the head. By 1900 we were tired so had dinner of angel hair pasta and rotisserie chicken from Publix. By 2230, we folded after calls home. Always good!!</p> <p><b><u>Tuesday, 5/24/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0720. Moving boat this am. Went to Starbucks for coffee and a dump, then back to relo the boat. The slack current in the river was in a tight time frame so we had to be efficient. The bridges are coordinated, so once you give one drawbridge operator your timing and destination, he notifies the successive bridge operators and they automatically open said bridges. We made it to Cooley’s on time and docked up with little trouble. Once set up, Paul continued with head repair, ahead of getting a UPS delivery of a new $500 controller soon. The head was terminal without it after several phone consultations Paul had with the manufacturer. We accomplished tasks and watched a mother duck and 13 babies trailing behind her. She, like boaters trying to dock, waited for slack river flow to traverse across the river. Her nesting and resting area was right in front of Virago on the dock, where long term berthers apparently feed her and her brood regularly.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs6CPakgpYl_O8MQhu4D3wpJsbeTtgvogjGOo7W0qAbKcyu7DWcXdoIhfgrHDRgFbCDSzKe02vRzyC_-4TtmhZeO1OjIjWplJ7w58VT0rLoLL9KgwhcjUeeqiVVhMGiy9Hcnvb3EYDkqD4/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520281%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 281" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; border-left: 0px; margin-right: auto; border-bottom: 0px" height="208" alt="Spring 2011 281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiwg7XyK7IbKNVoGTSos_APcvoIBNi9DUnnsXcdDDijY1wrY86SIcpDaXgbtsmn_nDKGLstImIa3ljhehmOaSgQdb9ZU-ES8TdVs4xb-ARB03Eo1VHS06ejR9fsE_HqQhokEh8iFNPRvN-/?imgmax=800" width="277" border="0" /></a></p> <p align="center">  Virago Safe at the Dock</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-TUce9b5boEI/TlHXBlxwe8I/AAAAAAAABbM/A2G_Ug1dLRg/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520280%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 280" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="209" alt="Spring 2011 280" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-h9paQsXY7Ec/TlHXCJj0NYI/AAAAAAAABbQ/xeh4BkF_sgo/Spring%2525202011%252520280_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="279" border="0" /></a> <br />Brinney’s Irish Pub</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>We went to dinner at 1800 at Brinneys Irish Pub on the River Walk, to celebrate Robins last night with us. Food was good and the place had a ceiling covered with nautical items. Being an Irish Pub, they had a countdown timer on the wall counting down days, hours, minutes and seconds until St. Patrick’s Day. We returned to the boat at 2000 and enjoyed the busy river boat traffic and a little cool breeze. The drawbridge near our boat was up and down all day and night except during business commute hours. The bridge traffic alarm was our clue that a large boat was coming by soon. The boats ranged from canoes, to multi million dollar mega yachts, some under power and some being towed. Very lively boating community for sure.</p> <p><b><u>Wednesday, 5/25/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0645 for coffee and tasks. Paul went up the mast and installed the new Windex at 0830. Later, we visited and sent Robin on his way to his aunt’s house in Sarasota Florida where he planned a visit before his trek home to Ventura. I washed the boat exterior and Paul retrieved 2 out of 3 boxes he was waiting for from Garhauer Marine containing our new dinghy davits. These boxes had made mistaken journeys to the Bay Area, then redirected by UPS to Florida somewhere, then to our Marina. The third box did not make it. It contained the cross braces and hardware to finish the job. Hopefully coming before Paul has to leave for the next leg of the trip. Paul made another bus trip to West Marine and exchanged one of the interior fans for a new on. Now all fans work beautifully. At 1730, Paul and I unpacked the main davit parts and did a visual first fitting to see if clearances were ok for an install tomorrow. There appeared to be plenty of room below the helm area to access and set bolts for the davit bases. This was a big relief for both of us. We celebrated the day’s accomplishments (see list) with sundowners and returned to Brinneys Pub for dinner. Food good again.</p> <p><b><u>Thursday, 5/26/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0715 for coffee and toast. We then started the davit base install, then the main arms and their attachments to the stern rails. It all went smoothly and we finished all we could do without the missing box of cross braces, by 1130 hours. We had a beer and started interior cleaning and organizing for the benefit of the next crew, arriving tomorrow. (Marj, Jennifer and Lorraine). A dock neighbor who happened to have a Catalina 470, took pity on us and offered to buy and bring back beer on his grocery run. With mid 90’s heat and humidity, we welcomed his offer. We worked through the day cleaning and putting things away. Still waiting for the third UPS box. Around 1700 we took showers and once again went to Brinneys. The place has such a large and diverse menu, you could eat there for 5-10 days and not have the same thing twice. Home to bed by 2150.</p> <p><b><u>Friday, 5/27/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 0745. Did boat tasks and extreme cleaning for the final time before it was time to take the bus to the airport. My last time on Virago for this voyage to Maine. Paul left ahead of me to meet the new crew at the airport and I followed shortly thereafter. Alone on Virago, I had time to remember all the great sailing and good times Paul and I and the various crew had together. We visited and enjoyed a lot of countries, their people and cultures. I think we will call this “<b><i><u>a once in a lifetime opportunity”</u></i></b>. My walk to the bus stop was the first time on this leg that it rained, and rain and thunder it did. When I got on the bus the rain let up but I was soaked. I forgot this part of Florida living. No thanks. Trip home was smooth and on time. I know Paul and the new crew will have a blast going up the east coast, and I look forward to getting the SPOT messages and following their progress.</p> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p><b><u>The End</u></b></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-10715342163604067372011-08-19T17:06:00.001-07:002011-08-19T17:06:53.192-07:00Fort Étude – Fuerte San Lorenzo, Colon, Panama<p><b></b></p> <p><b></b></p> <p><b>Fuerte San Lorenzo is a ruined Spanish fort overlooking the mouth of the Chagres river about seven miles West of the Atlantic entrance to the Panama Canal. It is a short cab ride from the Shelter Bay Marina which is how Harry Reppert and I visited it.</b></p> <h4>Why This Location?</h4> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-rcz83vcEqaA/Tk76Xu6lE8I/AAAAAAAABWs/ayThy8pmprs/s1600-h/MapofCaminodeCruces4.jpg"><img title="Map of Camino de Cruces" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="281" alt="Map of Camino de Cruces" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-kayArCgdj3M/Tk76ZG5USFI/AAAAAAAABWw/CX7ktaSLPFs/MapofCaminodeCruces_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="356" align="right" border="0" /></a> </p> <p><b>In the early 16th century the Spanish were stealing the Inca gold from Peru and operating their own mines there using enslaved native Indians. This plunder was shipped to Panama City on the Pacific Ocean then transported across the Isthmus of Panama to the Caribbean for transshipment to Havana then on to Seville, Spain.  The easiest route across the Isthmus was called the Camino de Cruces which followed the Chagres River for its last twenty miles.  Just as this Camino was the easiest route to move gold from Panama City, it was also the easiest route for pirates to follow to attack the city. Therefore: defending the mouth of the Chagres at San Lorenzo was important to Spain.</b></p> <p><strong>How important was the Chagres? It has been claimed that the Chagres is the “richest river in the world.” First,  the Spanish extracted as much gold from Peru as had previously existed in the Old World. Second, as much as one to one and one half billion dollars worth of gold was shipped over this route from the gold fields of California in the mid 1800’s. Third, nearly 80% of the water to operate the Panama Canal is provided by the Chagres River.</strong></p> <p><strong>Why This Site?</strong></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-fAdxTBF6r0s/Tk76ZjT-ABI/AAAAAAAABW0/Gzvj17SbRjg/s1600-h/RangeofGuns4.jpg"><img title="Range of Guns" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="373" alt="Range of Guns" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-l4HBm50T-4c/Tk76aOXJ4II/AAAAAAAABW4/3OtT-VFzCEg/RangeofGuns_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="318" align="left" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>The Chagres empties into a small bay with a high bluff on its Northern shore. Near the bottom of this bluff there is a useful anchorage that supported a harbor for the transshipment workers. The river itself is only navigable to small vessels, actually just large canoes. Goods were transferred from the canoes to coastal ships bound for Porto Bello about thirty miles to the Eas, where they were again reloaded onto ocean going ships bound for Havana. The high bluff gave defenders an excellent gun platform commanding the entire bay and controlling this activity. </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <p> </p> <h3>Why This Shape?</h3> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Kw_uxt05GE8/Tk76amQp2cI/AAAAAAAABW8/vqZ-xfFBROc/s1600-h/AirealView3.jpg"><img title="Aireal View" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="229" alt="Aireal View" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-r_3RWTSJ5tg/Tk76b0FGMEI/AAAAAAAABXA/Tg7rGrEwzwU/AirealView_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="341" align="right" border="0" /></a> </p> <p><b>It is interesting that the fort is “U” shaped with the base of the “U” towards the land not the sea. I surmise that the builders believed that the steep shoreward walls of the bluff would deter  any landing party. Thus the primary threat would be from the land side. Although it isn’t clear in this photo, there are two rows of gun emplacements with a ditch between them facing the land. The inner wall has the usual drawbridge with flanking embrasures. The longer side walls guard the less formidable flanks of the bluff.</b></p> <h3>Features of the Fort</h3> <h3>Garitas</h3> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-tz803-Mnoc8/Tk76ccZgUeI/AAAAAAAABXE/vy88WbiSApI/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520Paul%252520181.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 181" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="273" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 181" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjKEYNL2wSRk7LDSTjRIOJvpTEZxmuslr-dsmbzz4tdZflk_sW2qUfhpDglB4WiR4aWB5E8sK5l0E85RIfWX1eWJ-HulT-5Kx2x1iAvr8wTcln748V5FlH6Mw_6zM_iRqXKv5i8NtYf1io/?imgmax=800" width="206" align="left" border="0" /></a></p> <p>Early Spanish forts had sentry posts called garitas overhanging the walls usually at the corners. They are such distinctive features that one is depicted on the city logo of San Juan, Puerto Rico. At the opposite end of the respect spectrum, the government of Mexico remove the garitas from the Fuerte San Diego in Acapulco when it was renovated into a history and culture center.</p> <p> </p> <p><b></b></p> <p><b></b></p> <p><b></b></p> <p><strong></strong></p> <h3>The Visit</h3> <p><strong>The approach to the fort doesn’t look too formidable since the walls are not very much higher than the surrounding field. This sloped field is actually called a glacis and is designed to set attacking troops up like ten pins to be shot down by point blank cannon fire. To actually reach the first row of canons we must cross the first of two ditches over a narrow bridge. From the distance we see the gun embrasures, many guns,  and the guard post astride the only entrance</strong></p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-R3Daf3Unn1I/Tk76dSHwInI/AAAAAAAABXM/Xvgcfi-P6KA/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520Paul%252520154%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 154" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="425" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 154" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-y9fXWbAG-R4/Tk76eoLf7bI/AAAAAAAABXQ/ZtVY9sY9b_o/Virago%252520Rescue%252520Paul%252520154_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="565" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>Once across the first ditch we see the first row of canons. Canon aficionados will recognize that some of these are of English manufacture having been left behind by invading British pirates.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="575" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-F7x0QU4KhBI/Tk76fWrV3pI/AAAAAAAABXU/JhAyQLheB3s/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520396%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 396" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="159" alt="Virago Rescue 396" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-8cduX2yoWN0/Tk76fk9u9oI/AAAAAAAABXY/tv1SFrkXQmI/Virago%252520Rescue%252520396_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="279" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="273"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OWKcxr9jm4k/Tk76gVk5xSI/AAAAAAAABXc/-4GHzq3VwSs/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520397%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 397" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="154" alt="Virago Rescue 397" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-qUuhsi2lMxc/Tk76gzKFjyI/AAAAAAAABXg/Bcp8yyIvtEM/Virago%252520Rescue%252520397_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="270" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">Cannons to the Right of Us</td> <td valign="top" width="273"> <p align="right">Cannons to the Left of Us</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b>Having passed the first row of cannons (luckily without volley and thunder) we crossed the second ditch over a partial bridge. During active duty there would have been a drawbridge pulled up by chains hanging from the central guard tower. </b></p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="561" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center"> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-HlukjxY9Sdg/Tk76hp4UaGI/AAAAAAAABXk/-Mb8p9a9Rl4/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520Paul%252520186%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 186" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="250" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 186" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-OmTdcwTJXmM/Tk76h5qvIJI/AAAAAAAABXo/VPcwSD0Bqys/Virago%252520Rescue%252520Paul%252520186_thumb%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="333" align="left" border="0" /></a> Harry Crossing the Drawbridge</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="259"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-LG9H88Zk0rw/Tk76iYgFG5I/AAAAAAAABXs/K30mrdU1LSI/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520Paul%252520185%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 185" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="273" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 185" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiauJSIS0FMJNhswehiRu0bUXOrjt-_gug6Dp8-4vKjlY-VqB_QWSH6vu7F0KD51wTZ4Uga78BasINrsDUsUqlXk0XC6c0VHlbXJTDXrzM_JzR6mJDm2OIbZOvN1y-8OmxbLlObGiRiXk2j/?imgmax=800" width="206" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">Notice Embrasure Flanking the Bridge</td> <td valign="top" width="259">Safely Looking Back Over Bridge</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b>Once safely inside we can see the central court yard often called the parade ground with the ruins of the barracks.</b></p> <p><b> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-owByfgTN0Dc/Tk76jtT86pI/AAAAAAAABX0/WcsNWO7b5PM/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520391%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 391" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="317" alt="Virago Rescue 391" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXvg6DA1WTk49twM48YtklvKBMVY1sFy1fXEKAioAGH1599gKzwIIKHXuMM4L_lonaAu6QtOhXzsAp1Jh-FXtkgcoFejz4uJ0p6UU-JQeyp_INlXsW2Y1AFtBUoFT4uiIS-HmUvDIogkDv/?imgmax=800" width="560" border="0" /></a>  </b></p> <p><strong>Looking back from the parade ground we see most of the fort’s innards.</strong></p> <p><b><b><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-XUmB7e0OU7E/Tk76k4E91jI/AAAAAAAABX8/OMyM8TUGl38/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520389%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 389" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="322" alt="Virago Rescue 389" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ThImDSrdRw4/Tk76lcgA1oI/AAAAAAAABYA/UCSCU7D1WXU/Virago%252520Rescue%252520389_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="569" border="0" /></a></b></b></p> <p><strong>The fort is well documented with signage in both Spanish and English. </strong></p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="572" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><strong>Short History of  San Lorenzo </strong></td> <td valign="top" width="270"><strong>Typical Informative Sign</strong> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">1597. The fort was built in the Chagres River’s mouth as one of the fortifications for protecting the coast from pirates attacks. <br /> <br />1671. Henry Morgan captured the fortress and he used it as his base for attacking Panama City. At his return, Morgan blew up the fort. <br /> <br />1677. Spanish rebuilt and fortified the fort, with additional cannons, batteries, and barracks. <br /> <br />1740. English Admiral Edward Vernon bombards, captures and demolishes the fort. <br /> <br />1750. The fort is rebuilt again, which structure is that currently seen in the remaining ruins. <br /> <br />1821. Panama declares independence from Spain, and Spanish troops leave the region boarding from this place. <br /> <br />1942. During World War II, the United States Army installs artillery in the area of the fort as part of the defense system of the coast and of the Panama Canal.<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-zGIiMjJRG10/Tk76l0EU8SI/AAAAAAAABYE/f6OjDh26yWg/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520400%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="270"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ExBvOA5Ok8Q/Tk76mQpZtsI/AAAAAAAABYI/jHZYJPO_c8U/s1600-h/Virago%252520Rescue%252520Paul%252520156%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 156" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="402" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 156" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHhrlrXPfB7SQ33QKViUeNHbGBOQLLNoqRmiUuKGxtBY0T-dOSRRunA40D9yKr6BPTuv3yt-ziIS0mtqwl_nNMVrWMN5qrbQOgdTB8qC0ewJHnuKhAWCs5kj-ovo76D54J6hYf46VVsoZO/?imgmax=800" width="303" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>New News</h3> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>In 2010  a team of archeologists found the remains of a 17th century ship near San Lorenzo. It has been known that Morgan lost 5 ships in the shallows of Lajas reef as he approached the fort in 1671. Among the lost ships was Morgan’s flagship “Satisfaction”. The team was partially funded by the Morgan Rum Company and they are hoping to find liquor inside some of the cargo boxes recovered from the wreck. 340 year old rum, anyone?</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-46258765794766633472011-08-12T17:16:00.001-07:002011-08-12T17:16:35.677-07:00Fort Étude – Fuerte San Diego, Acapulco Mexico<p>Why study forts? Forts where built in contested places of importance and epitomize the design principle “form should follow function”. I enjoy the forts at four levels of detail. First, there is the political level where we look to answer the question: “Who built this fort and why did they build it?” Second, there is the geographical level where we ask, “Why was the fort built at this site?” Third, looking at the geometric level answers the question, “Why was the fort built this way?” Fourth, at the detail level we ponder, “Why was this part of the fort built this way?”</p> <h3>Why This Location?</h3> <p>Acapulco was settled by the Spanish under Cortez in the 1530’s. Spanish explorer Magellan followed the trade winds West across the Pacific to the Philippines in 1521, but true trade could not begin until <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Andr%C3%A9s_de_Urdaneta">Andrés de Urdaneta</a> discovered a return route North to the California coast and thence South to Acapulco in 1565. In Spain, Seville was given a monopoly on trade with the new world. What evolved was a trade route from Seville, to Havana, to Veracruz, to Acapulco, then on to Manila and back. Thus, Acapulco became the largest Spanish port on the West coast of the New World. After the defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588, Spanish shipping was left vulnerable to English, French, and Dutch pirates. Something had to be done--convoys and forts were the two primary measures taken.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iBk1r5KdF-I/TkXCLH3h7dI/AAAAAAAABVU/ZPpkYEx6MVE/s1600-h/Spanish%252520Trade%252520Route%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spanish Trade Route" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="317" alt="Spanish Trade Route" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-tOPa0KQy6KY/TkXCMPUS2LI/AAAAAAAABVY/h3HVyrMLf-s/Spanish%252520Trade%252520Route_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="590" border="0" /></a> </p> <h3>Why This Site?</h3> <p>Once the political decision was made to fortify Acapulco, the site had to be chosen. It was critical that the Manila Galleons anchored in the harbor and the warehouses for the Oriental goods awaiting overland trans shipments to Veracruz be protected from pirates. (Keep in mind that pirates like Drake and Morgan were “state supported terrorists” and might command as many as thirty ships with 1,200 troops!) Acapulco Bay is very large, but  the prime anchorage is in the small Northwestern corner. (Both the Acapulco Yacht Club and the cruise ship dock are in this corner of the bay.) </p> <p><img title="Range of Guns" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="419" alt="Range of Guns" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-1aEIc_LcAco/TkXCMt3ckQI/AAAAAAAABVc/jPB_F5YO7sA/Range%252520of%252520Guns_thumb%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="542" border="0" /></p> <p> </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="545" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xAufPsIeycE/TkXCNL0uQDI/AAAAAAAABVg/Ck4qhS1SSas/s1600-h/Canon%252520Ranges%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img title="Canon Ranges" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="291" alt="Canon Ranges" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVITKcNR7pZWUvxsLRq_Lo6Sy7she8VTTYjyxKhnrg2ELjHsmrjz0JJNr4uCdUhElSwXtRzb8pt9-T8JIp96A5gg3Dj-0bEnNNSnTpROVNWXen9_RtWeMmSm5chyphenhyphenOL7e6DdRDITg52h0-3/?imgmax=800" width="364" align="left" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="243">The most likely armament to be available had an effective range of about 1,200 yards—enough to sequester the anchored fleet. The actual site chosen was on a bluff which gave the guns an added advantage over shipboard armaments and made frontal assault extremely difficult. The fort was began in 1615 and extensively strengthen in 1776.</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="243"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>Why This Shape?</h3> <p>Fuerte San Diego is a classic bastioned star fort based upon a regular pentagon. The great military engineer Vauban proposed low forts with thick walls to withstand cannon fire that had obsoleted medieval forts with their high thin walls. He also perfected the star fort layout such that each  face of the fort could be swept by some of its own cannons.  Thus, there are no blind spots out of the reach of its guns.  The regularity of the fort suggests that the designers regarded a land based attack as an equal threat to sea side attack. In fact, the only time the fort fell it fell to a land attach during the revolution in the early 1800’s.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jyrtIWwbL6Q/TkXCOMTC9bI/AAAAAAAABVo/ZMjud_Qc86I/s1600-h/Diagram%25255B8%25255D.jpg"><img title="Diagram" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="314" alt="Diagram" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-4Ob8Xtp5n8g/TkXCOurAYaI/AAAAAAAABVs/gFBkHFWsoOY/Diagram_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="247" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-eRF0If5E-KE/TkXCPLYl2PI/AAAAAAAABVw/p__y-5cak0U/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525200%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img title="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 0" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="305" alt="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 0" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-4GZ2xtanACM/TkXCP55WeoI/AAAAAAAABV0/pnanSdRsdFU/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525200_thumb%25255B5%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="334" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Generic Bastion Fort</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Fuerte San Diego in Google</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>Why These Features?</h3> <p>As a tourist, I come upon a fort built and made obsolete long ago and affording no bird’s eye view. What is visible to the casual visitor are the myriad details. Each fort I visit has features and exhibits illuminating only slivers of the whole story. So as I describe the forts different aspects will be described many of which might have been present at previous forts, just inaccessible.  </p> <h4>Moats & Drawbridges</h4> <p>Most forts have a moat even if it’s just a dry ditch. There is usually one entrance to the fort and that is supplied with a drawbridge. These features were carried over from medieval fortification practices since their usefulness was not diminished by the advent of cannons. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wFv3z8dYk5c/TkXCQsRaCNI/AAAAAAAABV4/qoGmvGi0Axs/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525203%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 3" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="220" alt="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eW22tgX89Sw/TkXCQ9D7LiI/AAAAAAAABV8/xCY0DTAsf1E/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525203_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-Hr0lAKTUeFQ/TkXCRqtFM-I/AAAAAAAABWA/4Rktz6uLnRY/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525201%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 1" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="222" alt="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 1" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-2oSdB_sxgbg/TkXCSKu2bII/AAAAAAAABWE/ZuhRK7GrFHM/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525201_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="294" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Fuerte San Diego is Now a History Museum</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">A Low Wall Surrounds the Moat</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-jjpFtblDSfg/TkXCSu8Dj3I/AAAAAAAABWI/7919HV-mXCg/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%25252010%252520Cruise%252520Ship%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 10 Cruise Ship" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="392" alt="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 10 Cruise Ship" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKhKN6FjHAOSOw2WaO1CyKCETXjj7Y5zDrS2iJBbhHGSwfw_ipVKW9y3g1izguXLeEZhP5K0sXOjaLFIZW6HBcv3AH0ppk8IFpwKD0t7d6e05kFZ4szUv6VrTwFjOfwiPNWOG_oPGR6asb/?imgmax=800" width="295" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-1NVg7DU45MM/TkXCTfP7B8I/AAAAAAAABWQ/s_zBXwylIsc/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%252520%252526%252520Covering%252520Front%252520Gate%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego & Covering Front Gate" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="396" alt="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego & Covering Front Gate" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_DZVmSwcObc/TkXCT5aYpII/AAAAAAAABWU/qaaAL9bxobA/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%252520%252526%252520Covering%252520Front%252520Gate_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="298" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">The Bridge is Vulnerable to Flanking Fire</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Bastion Embrasure for Flanking Gun</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h4>Embrasures</h4> <p>Embrasures are the low openings in the fort wall allowing the cannon to traverse an angle of fire while providing some protection for the gun crews. It’s the angle of travel (usually about thirty degrees left or right) that dictates the angles that the bastions can make with the main walls of the fort. Since Fuerte San Diego has cannons only on the parapet, it has only simple embrasures that are just low spots along the walls.</p> <h4>Museums</h4> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>Many forts are currently being maintained as museums. Fuerte San Diego is now a fine history museum. It contains exhibits about the history of Acapulco and the Manila trade. Cruise ship passengers are the only contemporary invaders coming through in an endless series of tour groups. To a fort nut it is a little disappointing that there is not more interpretation of the actual military aspects of the fort.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="561" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-EakD3lQY-LY/TkXCUtlS_YI/AAAAAAAABWY/IOQA_PDNmUk/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525209%252520Tourists%252520Invading%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 9 Tourists Invading" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="258" alt="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 9 Tourists Invading" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-VlmEVr-789U/TkXCVOozNxI/AAAAAAAABWc/iTuI5o9JQ90/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525209%252520Tourists%252520Invading_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="342" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="259"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-vYDl17UIl5E/TkXCWSQiatI/AAAAAAAABWg/pWgBV6aFTUg/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%25252014%252520Bridge%252520to%252520the%252520Ships%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 14 Bridge to the Ships" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="276" alt="Acapulco 3 Fuerto San Diego 14 Bridge to the Ships" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-5Yavq_Z4L6w/TkXCX1xrpdI/AAAAAAAABWk/eeTT45GzwDs/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%25252014%252520Bridge%252520to%252520the%252520Ships_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="208" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Gsx_dMPKCIY/TkXCYqujSXI/AAAAAAAABWo/-qX-yddq9Ww/s1600-h/Acapulco%2525203%252520Fuerto%252520San%252520Diego%2525205%252520Kitchen%25255B4%25255D.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Cruise Ships Dock Right Outside the Fort</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="259"> <p align="center">New Bridge to Cruise Ship Dock</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-51989562900920667962011-08-10T13:57:00.001-07:002011-08-10T13:57:21.830-07:00Isla Mujeres – Temple of Ixchel<p>Perhaps the only site on Isla Mujeres that qualifies as an honest to goodness archeological attraction is the Temple of the Mayan Goddess Ixchel. The temple is modest to say the most, but as in real estate it’s location, location, location that matters. The temple is at Punta Sur and the authorities have built an international sculpture garden as well as a market and restaurant complex for the visiting tourists. It also happens that this is the first spot in Mexico to see the sunrise.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-r6khF2AGRYA/TkKbB9sPeNI/AAAAAAAABTE/LmzTJ5fsWkQ/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520302%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 302" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="206" alt="Winter 2011 302" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2FsjnMbWR1c/TkKbCds9hhI/AAAAAAAABTI/sOBYMEhU06E/Winter%2525202011%252520302_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="274" border="0" /></a>   </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuZcBQpZeT1bjBUirNLBqKtY72r_R9kmkuSSEgCIAPd5ZWxypFbb6jLGI4t43DF9dFYmKsR7cvO4sG2Dr-iawj3zZLLycvGdc2-eLhuc3MvUYOJJKsJjby_j8GUNzzvCzYXCMLCCfIfFdx/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520301%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 301" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="206" alt="Winter 2011 301" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-1eQ-ABHIfWQ/TkKbDZWx9fI/AAAAAAAABTQ/5CYvzv3osfw/Winter%2525202011%252520301_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="274" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Tasteful Markers in English and Spanish</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300">Tiny Temple with To Die For Location</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <h3>Sculpture Garden</h3> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-5xpNic7q65s/TkKbEICyBEI/AAAAAAAABTU/oMefqfnRmWI/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520443%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 443" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="333" alt="Winter 2011 C 443" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoXMdkzjoc7lUJODthxawyyX3WsXaKqflpkgX0bwHh3ro_lwpKjlTMSZkjHlJ4JD1CVo6GpTVTYRDHj_1vjBfFirXkgBJz7UJr7f3Lz_jk-3j-jR-3r3xBe0pMkLVoH1BMNl3hCqFIDA5f/?imgmax=800" width="589" border="0" /></a> </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="200"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Befcigf-kjY/TkKbFUqfjBI/AAAAAAAABTc/aRZyMslX1oQ/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520016%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 016" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="293" alt="Spring 2011 016" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VcMjT0Y2BAY/TkKbFn5abeI/AAAAAAAABTg/ovt9gUfBDH8/Spring%2525202011%252520016_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="219" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="200"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-JsvWl2DuyIc/TkKbGM4Wo3I/AAAAAAAABTk/_MulfCpMAcY/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520445%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 445" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: block; border-left-width: 0px; float: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; border-right-width: 0px" height="294" alt="Winter 2011 C 445" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXUXRdaozB3wNEs0AJag4kDUKaPHIIQ7smvoU3s-yiEmUTJBVWLQ4UuW6GYL_2licPy5_uJuOyR1EX0ftaF129PQu48WZgdZzSeNUcg8o5ZKdmh_OUL2doD0qCdmVFzfiSD4HjuNeYHhsM/?imgmax=800" width="167" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="200"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXZsSnP2M14xGepEtCKH0xZOG_9fHf0g4xBYG0gtW1mSL7laJr6U6_EtEZfwcEGIQxJKGp06TMXn8yZXqJTslCh4rr0IwKOaRTmh3e0CdYWPI2Eb-WZrzIKWcsMT3Y3c5OzFKLFEx3hLYf/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520447%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 447" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: block; border-left-width: 0px; float: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; border-right-width: 0px" height="300" alt="Winter 2011 C 447" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibjm-u7fQp8hxSdWR7wBO_9joKCxGMhqBu62BqOBxYwHzfMl579ECaTe4Dhxhm-mfp8iajAIXFOn22fdw_kvJ9ihpykukjSvNuwYr2k_kucYMNyouqWFbp75w3YbMQhpdKCSY_KtqdI5S2/?imgmax=800" width="170" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>Who can resist joining a parade?</h3> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-m35ARCEPLPY/TkLwYYRANZI/AAAAAAAABT0/zxVlc2SmVUc/s1600-h/Winter2011D1184.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 118" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="222" alt="Winter 2011 D 118" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyHa1Vvupw0cXJTIcHlgAG5VcmfL9MpDfe5AdUiQ12xx9gXFkzhi9zFRtaTFDBUOqz0mptzthOspdUWCzm-AudwwJq5wHPx5Vs3f_hiRGSSiJETUm7qgPmXbHR1Bui2LcxQzhhLeuKmow7/?imgmax=800" width="294" border="0" /></a> <br /></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-uDo00GfZW7k/TkLwZmimHZI/AAAAAAAABT8/mWr9k8kb3sw/s1600-h/Spring20110174.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 017" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="219" alt="Spring 2011 017" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-BTS9csdues8/TkLwaASOUFI/AAAAAAAABUA/zor9wfNSMU0/Spring2011017_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="298"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Bc0mcgZW2KU/TkLwavzTHdI/AAAAAAAABUE/hsOWiXA3IkQ/s1600-h/Spring20115023.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <h3>Goddesses Still Roam the Site</h3> </td> <td valign="top" width="298"> <p align="left"></p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><img title="Spring 2011 006" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: block; border-left-width: 0px; float: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; border-right-width: 0px" height="210" alt="Spring 2011 006" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrykExm10oaOws8mHGxn9PkETG6dKYC3RhzhsfbJX-h_CbCwpwOKBie46uLUhxRm2mXvzsItFkYw-iql5kAE8eQce6rvnF1gw0aha2qes6MHo2ccv5G2i3msqHxQF3AiyBOQZOkQHse8CU/?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><img title="Spring 2011 502" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: block; border-left-width: 0px; float: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; border-right-width: 0px" height="212" alt="Spring 2011 502" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-_79FsPC3wfo/TkLwbiTU68I/AAAAAAAABUM/8JaLlcUvsws/Spring2011502_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Sister Janice and Managing Owner Marj</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Captain and Daughter Sarah</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>Location, Location, Location</h3> <p>Probably it’s just the little boy still in me, but the feature that I liked best was the walkway around the point below the level of the temple itself.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-RVh6U5cy6sc/TkLwc8gfawI/AAAAAAAABUQ/nO0IqQipY-Y/s1600-h/Spring20110144.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 014" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="225" alt="Spring 2011 014" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Ta-SiK4AuFs/TkLwdUFfH_I/AAAAAAAABUU/1c0LKpLD68I/Spring2011014_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="301" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Ii5Ng0WbHMY/TkLweJ0vuXI/AAAAAAAABUY/szWBgBcFsQI/s1600-h/Spring20110225.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 022" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="225" alt="Spring 2011 022" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-qm9-MgQ3CzA/TkLweveDCGI/AAAAAAAABUc/cVgSVRRy8DY/Spring2011022_thumb3.jpg?imgmax=800" width="300" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-9_LkB41RKE0/TkLwfDjzsXI/AAAAAAAABUg/xsFq3tTSa8A/s1600-h/Spring20115113.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 511" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="401" alt="Spring 2011 511" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_sBAF6u8eDU/TkLwfqObwWI/AAAAAAAABUk/hv0IRUDXGYI/Spring2011511_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-O3G8vGlucN0/TkLwgOsjLgI/AAAAAAAABUo/92bntaMrHyk/s1600-h/Winter2011D1123.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 112" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="404" alt="Winter 2011 D 112" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-XTKG0JGtHjk/TkLwlHPZySI/AAAAAAAABUs/pkC3Eq42t94/Winter2011D112_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsazhaxUXwLp7hdr2UF41Dbk8AGGPpCSLOR_gtV-GmBDI550-yYdzLqqz3OYT-6rMXRSVzeQ-K66Knpif7XJ3JUsNPDCFPadmfBi-0_SlU18qIGsN9HtxQwszjYBr9EkQBABbpLTPTtla/s1600-h/Winter2011D1113.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 111" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="402" alt="Winter 2011 D 111" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAxG2B02vjzYoRUhlwSAM0v0evPMCh00-4jEQCC7-Kv4C0EvIRjCESkyQWo1G4EdI3QWFrkRt0_poTUhoK53Fwq84jO3yLHFpMZaD-7smGDJXDD2D2oRr3eP-lkuwFOuMpbwXI_gJksmdE/?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eu7HxzJIhlg/TkLwno_s4JI/AAAAAAAABU4/2U9P4hmXP20/s1600-h/Spring20110093.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 009" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="408" alt="Spring 2011 009" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cn7SEly58qg/TkLwoQdNFeI/AAAAAAAABU8/nwdleHCD2kE/Spring2011009_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="305" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>All the Modern Conveniences</h3> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-8PdrgQ36FTI/TkLwpPgCnaI/AAAAAAAABVA/crl5EzSA-WA/s1600-h/Winter2011D1203.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 120" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="229" alt="Winter 2011 D 120" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-SdIXuQJs78A/TkLwquH-zGI/AAAAAAAABVE/sYJ2nIL_XMs/Winter2011D120_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eu7HxzJIhlg/TkLwno_s4JI/AAAAAAAABVI/-pw0yCbHA3s/s1600-h/Spring20110092.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-_UTRTwMJg5k/TkLwrt4z1-I/AAAAAAAABVM/_luZRGHAWDM/s1600-h/Winter2011D1223.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 122" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="232" alt="Winter 2011 D 122" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jvGlBl876N4/TkLwsIf9S0I/AAAAAAAABVQ/7_K-OZBLaEk/Winter2011D122_thumb1.jpg?imgmax=800" width="308" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Restaurant and Gift Shops</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Park and Gift More Shops</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-52962147320801267902011-08-08T17:42:00.001-07:002011-08-08T17:42:32.596-07:00Isla Mujeres – Haul Out<p>I had bought bottom paint in Costa Rica, but left without applying it, so I took the opportunity to have the job done at the Isla Mujeres Marina. This marina is located in the lagoon that nearly cuts Isla Mujeres in half. The lagoon is used as a hurricane hole and has several marinas and an anchorage. Isla Mujeres Marina is the largest and best equipped yard that I had seen since I left San Francisco Bay. </p> <h3>The Lagoon</h3> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfeRWEbxbyNiaRBufoiG-KKBKSk-FYG2p7j5JziCZlX5qKYf33abWd8rmii2FF4lxEcALFqpJCo1BP-gIKp6JlCkNdcWFQKjz0KRDnI5r9JpT7doSBhuz35x_rB5D-tE0sGkNJbj_Cm1TR/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520501%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 501" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="222" alt="Spring 2011 501" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ONRFMJC1ej4/TkCCUPBTyJI/AAAAAAAABRw/kReyCEXV9hI/Spring%2525202011%252520501_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="294" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Nz6kHRX0SXg/TkCCU2ZwZvI/AAAAAAAABR0/PrWTkpVajno/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520500%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 500" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="223" alt="Spring 2011 500" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-h6zLQn-11n4/TkCCVLgADAI/AAAAAAAABR4/kPfDFU5ZS7E/Spring%2525202011%252520500_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="296" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Boats in the Lagoon</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Marina Dock in the Lagoon</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-EaQeV3yVP4I/TkCCV3XF7aI/AAAAAAAABR8/UTsRCvyB1VE/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520491%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 491" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="220" alt="Spring 2011 491" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-5N2ZtHeYwfI/TkCCWeCV7ZI/AAAAAAAABSA/uh4hEWmyKsQ/Spring%2525202011%252520491_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-kHcFJIuVCTw/TkCCWzXJMGI/AAAAAAAABSE/PupcDwWn3Ps/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520159%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 159" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="223" alt="Spring 2011 159" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-r4mf0XETv_c/TkCCXLMUYrI/AAAAAAAABSI/g6BDOKqDXlI/Spring%2525202011%252520159_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="298" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Resort on the Lagoon</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300">Virago on the Hard on the Lagoon</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>People at the Yard</h3> <p>I was pleasantly surprised by the high quality of the facilities and unpleasantly surprised by the US scale prices.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="200"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-TrU9PKv7_kY/TkCCX3S6zdI/AAAAAAAABSM/t3D__UAYrEw/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520161%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 161" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="260" alt="Spring 2011 161" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-D0UG00qBLGo/TkCCYD7SMhI/AAAAAAAABSQ/myGVc9m0E1k/Spring%2525202011%252520161_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="195" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="200"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VHdVQr5157w/TkCCYv9Is9I/AAAAAAAABSU/cnwXO7FwKoQ/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520164%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 164" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="258" alt="Spring 2011 164" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-nPgVw7c3_U4/TkCCY3obhzI/AAAAAAAABSY/PVGsvqWNa8o/Spring%2525202011%252520164_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="193" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="200"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-UQvG2Wtq3lY/TkCCZeJdapI/AAAAAAAABSc/wtWKJvufalU/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520162%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 162" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="257" alt="Spring 2011 162" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-2w1QII9PbMk/TkCCZlbecqI/AAAAAAAABSg/3AH-2qTGCqM/Spring%2525202011%252520162_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="193" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="200">Jose the Manager</td> <td valign="top" width="200">Alex the Local Canvas Worker</td> <td valign="top" width="200">Worker in Safety Gear</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>Modern Facilities</h3> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ihTezu20wxI/TkCCaI70C4I/AAAAAAAABSk/o8CEjm01RFY/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520565%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 565" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="221" alt="Spring 2011 565" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-T4i3tqRbyeQ/TkCCahONe1I/AAAAAAAABSo/tSPGLjqXLG8/Spring%2525202011%252520565_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="293" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-TrU9PKv7_kY/TkCCX3S6zdI/AAAAAAAABSs/Sm2ZqjDqwmk/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520161%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMqWP_cVrZ-wAgiAKpqvX0OpTCOZJm7hqlnksQPD31Czdd-sxAgQW00ZrjfLtJCcc6hT-BGTtx5cfAM0ku1QFvIlFk97SIEmoMnriUC7ZNVhwour0oVR1siB-lsSUkxpXNjbceS9aHQhC-/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520165%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 165" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="221" alt="Spring 2011 165" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-U71h5JPEQwM/TkCCcQ_PXlI/AAAAAAAABS0/F0GD4u_jrZI/Spring%2525202011%252520165_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="295" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-VHdVQr5157w/TkCCYv9Is9I/AAAAAAAABS4/o4X2tF3jZsQ/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520164%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Virago Dwarfed by Travel Lift</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Virago Safely on the Hard</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>Propeller Strut Looking OK</h3> <p>I only included this picture because the weld between the strut and cutlass bearing assembly was found to be severely corroded when we hauled Virago in Portland, Maine only two months later.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-jGEm1qCTVvY/TkCCdU3qalI/AAAAAAAABS8/2DqFQKqG-vI/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520566%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 566" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="455" alt="Spring 2011 566" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-cvX85q9Byio/TkCCd9LxR-I/AAAAAAAABTA/zxQi4_Gdr6A/Spring%2525202011%252520566_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="605" border="0" /></a></p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-63397375248855581062011-08-08T16:50:00.001-07:002011-08-08T16:50:35.540-07:00Isla Mujeres – Golf Cart Tours<p>Isla Mujeres is a true island only about five miles long and blessed with a mild climate. This makes touring by golf cart especially popular with tourists giving access to many areas that might not be exactly prime stand-alone destinations.  Here are some of these mildly interesting locations.</p> <h3>Golf Cart Touring</h3> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-IsuTfviZOZg/TkB12sufCAI/AAAAAAAABPY/YWYbH4mo7AE/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520461%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 461" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="193" alt="Winter 2011 C 461" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-eAYGiNA_s2A/TkB13LM0F6I/AAAAAAAABPc/rShCfzoQ1Cc/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520461_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="339" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-CY5O3iXRdAs/TkB13wxK4II/AAAAAAAABPg/aVk2ruhizII/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520494%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 494" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="196" alt="Spring 2011 494" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-KAS2faLLUIU/TkB14S6yKCI/AAAAAAAABPk/uzFRsZhrxy8/Spring%2525202011%252520494_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="260" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Sheri and Bill at the Snail House</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Sarah at the Isla Mujeres Marina</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <h3>The Malecon</h3> <p>Most Mexican seaside towns have a promenade along the waterfront called the Malecon. Usually they have the ocean on one side and businesses on the other heavily weighted to bars, restaurants, and gift shops. Isla Mujeres has a picturesque Malocon on the side facing the open ocean, but it is sadly lacking in businesses and therefore: pedestrians.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Nozi0XljqCA/TkB15HD142I/AAAAAAAABPo/ogC578ilbXc/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520361%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 361" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="224" alt="Winter 2011 361" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-qeGIniWkR5A/TkB15eBwynI/AAAAAAAABPs/R4YGjsdCm2g/Winter%2525202011%252520361_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="299" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-F06MXfp9I-I/TkB16T0MkMI/AAAAAAAABPw/uLs3X2OHPnQ/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520284%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 284" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="225" alt="Winter 2011 284" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-1R3u2z8VtiM/TkB16rL8YnI/AAAAAAAABP0/6bTbPPH65pE/Winter%2525202011%252520284_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="299" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Malecon Looking North</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Malecon Looking South</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <h3>Zama Beach</h3> <p>  Zama Beach and Lounge is on the Cancun side of Isla Mujeres and offers a fine restaurant and swimming beach. One of our favorite sites was seeing a modest motor yacht (maybe 100 feet long) anchor off the Zama dock, send a launch to the dock, and pick up a take out order from Zama waiters. Very classy!</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-C4FEsn6rBMs/TkB18PFwblI/AAAAAAAABP4/R8u1_Ed86D0/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520090%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 090" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="228" alt="Winter 2011 D 090" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vt-fyqd3ehk/TkB2D-qKwWI/AAAAAAAABP8/1nG7az4Eqnc/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520090_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-n38zKmkIBSA/TkB2EXthedI/AAAAAAAABQA/HTWS9ZztqGU/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520297%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 297" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="230" alt="Winter 2011 297" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-XAXyBCHG-iQ/TkB2E8PDiQI/AAAAAAAABQE/r40hMAy8bes/Winter%2525202011%252520297_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="305" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Harry, Sheri, and Bill at Zama Entrance</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Paul on the Dock at Zama Beach</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-o4uammmmbK4/TkB2FWElxTI/AAAAAAAABQI/1yyGpyUVJ9I/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520091%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 091" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="228" alt="Winter 2011 D 091" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-EutDdN_rby4/TkB2FxWAs5I/AAAAAAAABQM/Rngr7Qt2bFw/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520091_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ryhKyP7RCAw/TkB2Gn5lOAI/AAAAAAAABQQ/Nk2OFN6Mlqs/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520296%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 296" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="228" alt="Winter 2011 296" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-dK7uDPZ3AwE/TkB2HLD-hGI/AAAAAAAABQU/mI-_BnidALg/Winter%2525202011%252520296_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Elegant Water Feature as Entrance Bridge</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Sheri at Pool and Bath House</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <h3>Avalon Resort</h3> <p>The Northern end of Isla Mujeres is taken up by the Avalon Resort.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-l2zvd4ISJ28/TkB2HlgKncI/AAAAAAAABQY/qMY_cL8EfZI/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520309%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 309" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="215" alt="Winter 2011 309" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-GJODnuzmlE0/TkB2IMCW0II/AAAAAAAABQc/HS9qS_NWnPQ/Winter%2525202011%252520309_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="331"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-RSerBWOLbr0/TkB2I9sHa5I/AAAAAAAABQg/B1sLWi120_0/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520135%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 135" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="214" alt="Winter 2011 D 135" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-jizJf8heTAM/TkB2Jc-oKNI/AAAAAAAABQk/g1yWOI7EPEQ/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520135_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"> <p align="center">Causeway Entrance to Avalon</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="331"> <p align="center">Ubiquitous Golf Carts at Avalon</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4LxiVR3ta0qvTtOUuQ6DBZY8cVoCTINXyZt5_r4X2T6baEIhkude8dlCzJ9Ns8AG9yolEVpKdAnvmQcMnxO9k04McwhPIZDHguwJES44srwIpmt88jUhAyp2EkiI8_I2OjTbYFsWdjp3J/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520464%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 464" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="166" alt="Winter 2011 C 464" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kZYDoDSdLbI/TkB2KRwA7FI/AAAAAAAABQs/lx0mLJf8MY4/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520464_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="331"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vAufo_DiJvA/TkB2K74KjNI/AAAAAAAABQw/i_1rIQUNj1Q/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520131%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 131" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; border-left: 0px; margin-right: auto; border-bottom: 0px" height="166" alt="Winter 2011 D 131" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-UbtD0V-DjfQ/TkB2LX-XtVI/AAAAAAAABQ0/EqLka2oVuQw/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520131_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="220" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-RSerBWOLbr0/TkB2I9sHa5I/AAAAAAAABQ4/HxtOt9ZKNCE/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520135%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"> <p align="center">Bill, Sheri, and Paul Tour Avalon</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="331"> <p align="center">Seaside Massage Anyone?</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <h3>Miscellaneous</h3> <p>  </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-mHDa0IiPUuY/TkB2MqDeg0I/AAAAAAAABQ8/EJweOWMiy2A/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520126%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 126" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="223" alt="Winter 2011 D 126" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/--zHVBsb4cZQ/TkB2NE6OeCI/AAAAAAAABRA/bJ3UMbEjfTw/Winter%2525202011%252520D%252520126_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="296" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-vkUyUDi4BX8/TkB2NquPBWI/AAAAAAAABRE/iLrMt6yLrAI/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520358%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 358" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: block; float: none; margin-left: auto; border-left: 0px; margin-right: auto; border-bottom: 0px" height="225" alt="Winter 2011 358" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-c2R4cAj2W_w/TkB2ON6JBUI/AAAAAAAABRI/wUty_l9thRw/Winter%2525202011%252520358_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="169" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Modern Ruins – A True Fixer Upper</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Olivia Restaurant Door</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ONX-DwBmQpo/TkB2PTyE9ZI/AAAAAAAABRM/kTIgunT7aTw/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520435%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 435" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="170" alt="Winter 2011 C 435" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-FVDrMreeG2I/TkB2P-69m7I/AAAAAAAABRQ/W66xHmkmXl8/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520435_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="299" border="0" /></a>  </p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-iD10dssHRO0/TkB2QQ4RCXI/AAAAAAAABRU/QEvJiP2Fvqc/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520434%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 434" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="174" alt="Winter 2011 C 434" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Rl3WD6XpasQ/TkB2QhrrxeI/AAAAAAAABRY/eRJo897tIHw/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520434_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="306" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Harry and Sheri on the Malecon</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Sheri at the City Cemetary</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <h3>Range of Vendors</h3> <p>On our tour we found a wide range of food vendors.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ylZ4VVmghE8/TkB2RChVXXI/AAAAAAAABRc/Fcl5IHXT0-U/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520434%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 434" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="238" alt="Winter 2011 434" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-lz-Fr2dgDIw/TkB2RiWcS2I/AAAAAAAABRg/Lnq5EolEcLA/Winter%2525202011%252520434_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="178" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="left"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-6REZhjhEVDo/TkB2SHSHZwI/AAAAAAAABRk/Vum_bWdG4gI/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520436%25255B6%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 436" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="240" alt="Winter 2011 C 436" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xM-RcKsRTYQ/TkB2SvJYiHI/AAAAAAAABRo/AsdWI4NtS60/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520436_thumb%25255B4%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="423" border="0" /></a></p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Fancy Mayan Coffee</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="right">No Frills Street Food in the Central Square</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-7009384623588964312011-08-08T14:12:00.001-07:002011-08-08T17:43:20.099-07:00Isla Mujeres – Gringo Gulch<p>Every city that attracts tourists soon develops a sacrificial zone informally known as “gringo gulch”. Isla Mujeres’ population is concentrated into two villages about three miles apart. The Northern end has the ferry terminals and most of the tourist related businesses while the Southern area houses most of the Mexican population in a village called Colonia.  Being a mere three miles across the bay from Cancun, the Northern end developed such an area along pedestrian-friendly Avenue de Hildalgo. This is where most of the bars, restaurants, and gift shops are found.   We were there on Super Bowl Sunday and the street was packed while in April the crowds were much diminished.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-xC2pKqy_jhQ/TkBRCdmOO_I/AAAAAAAABOQ/Pl8mE9RhNuU/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520282%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 282" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="220" alt="Winter 2011 282" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-GmhZITitqWw/TkBRC5z88CI/AAAAAAAABOU/78k_dfUnrjQ/Winter%2525202011%252520282_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="293" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-ObF56nAa4S8/TkBRDnhLtvI/AAAAAAAABOY/B9eehbJtyG8/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520283%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 283" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="218" alt="Winter 2011 283" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-_1zEa0RQkqc/TkBREEgWezI/AAAAAAAABOc/3vzgDpwiEyA/Winter%2525202011%252520283_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Paul and Harry at North End of  Hidalgo</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Bill at North End of Hildalgo</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-eJonDMgSmfI/TkBREkn9FlI/AAAAAAAABOg/rTwwtDoxWG0/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520372%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 372" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="220" alt="Winter 2011 372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVGsayOGJ34MYCxnxSyGxFIadsZ1QABLKlJQToz3rhUka_IcNJ5QkTiU5ZjRjRNDpKHonOL025eNs2nO60wqAMT46rHDS0YNQB7waO9t-tIFnxQGgjimcZvysAniajRD9vuGrP2Dep49__/?imgmax=800" width="293" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-trRWrG-fkog/TkBRF7-tfdI/AAAAAAAABOo/zK1E4lO20NA/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520376%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 376" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Winter 2011 376" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Y_k86kE04m8/TkBRGpK5vII/AAAAAAAABOs/MUUWYNGeg9Q/Winter%2525202011%252520376_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="287" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">City Hall at South End of Hidalgo    </p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Central Park at South End of Hidalgo</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-mIHd2FHuPnU/TkBRHQ-1hVI/AAAAAAAABOw/ZNubXh8D-zU/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520521%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 521" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="220" alt="Spring 2011 521" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Gws2HwgHOPg/TkBRH02kSwI/AAAAAAAABO0/qKCiBhgAwxU/Spring%2525202011%252520521_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-AL6QRCwuAps/TkBRIorK7sI/AAAAAAAABO4/XaDdYtVas3s/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520167%25255B7%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 167" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="217" alt="Spring 2011 167" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-ov4mG54bg0k/TkBRJAJEX1I/AAAAAAAABO8/kkhROYgK0_Y/Spring%2525202011%252520167_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Typical Jewelry Store</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Typical Mexican Kitsch Shop</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kHqPHrcCnmk/TkBRJrtvCLI/AAAAAAAABPA/kT0kV2B9kPg/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520136%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 136" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="395" alt="Spring 2011 136" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhFkJpI9dLt8ZaLba1DTaIYzZXaTA0A7HNJqQAg19Wj12ONOBfkSz6PKHkOMq8C14vYhcTzz3T6HYKnlv98MB_krbRb-ubB-8OH_P1I0Vny-Wc2N_YPLrip4YRkQPXn5pvt7OjUroMFaZo/?imgmax=800" width="295" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-TWSC5PnWREc/TkBRKvwLYVI/AAAAAAAABPI/tHT68oxfv1I/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520002%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 002" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="397" alt="Spring 2011 002" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTdR_fqYO0q8XL3auwSKioerkbC2phKCAuklvvuJLyERiSuosiq4YqttfifmRG9oI2_EQ7Al2CcQK3MGn2cmLkOAG4MJ0ki7L6ugZ7EyuvnbcfMF_6zmYCHIzOYdBZFZZQzT1VWmxGHBQG/?imgmax=800" width="297" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Daughter Sarah at Roster</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Sister Janice Enjoys '”Make Wood Fire Lasagna”</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>  Street theater is common on Avenue de Hidalgo such as dancers with torches—even a torch lit hula hoop!</p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-JhkUK4gx4z4/TkBRL6YEUXI/AAAAAAAABPQ/aiLJRTCD28w/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520428%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 428" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="453" alt="Winter 2011 428" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XxmAcBPyQG0/TkBRMmMiCkI/AAAAAAAABPU/nVX-9IK5y18/Winter%2525202011%252520428_thumb%25255B3%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="605" border="0" /></a></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-69222849452173548432011-08-08T09:56:00.001-07:002011-08-08T10:02:27.419-07:00Isla Mujeres – Marina Paraiso<p>As recorded in a previous post, Bill Eddy, Harry Reppert, Jim Graves and I arrived at Isla Mujeres on February 5th of 2011. We kept Virago at Marina Paraiso which is a Seven Seas Cruising Association port. I didn’t see that that distinction mattered much to us in practice, but must say the staff was very responsive to our needs and Virago’s needs. I have included a few pictures of the arrival and then a photo montage of the marina itself.   </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="587" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0P3cYpi-dBPKl6trVDyy5zbYlgajRMm3eZIyXIEcaQaazyCd7PVoxIJFJrwaYaFRUS-w_oXUPZ4d70m6_4_zheTAf0Lie2ZsUJnRVMS0Dd7nDq5yM0ca4saY4k4NydcoVIBAUJS4U-a60/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520275%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 275" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="184" alt="Winter 2011 275" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fSSakG6IxGg/TkAU_QiO6PI/AAAAAAAABM0/dpuSTUyojqw/Winter%2525202011%252520275_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="316"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-UYV264_D_mU/TkAU_43yBAI/AAAAAAAABM4/quX3QjZAbkw/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520427%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 427" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="181" alt="Winter 2011 C 427" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-55BtTzTcu20/TkAVAf9kKOI/AAAAAAAABM8/55ek6rfBDF4/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520427_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="320" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"> <p align="center">Jim Graves Checking our Course</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="316"> <p align="center">Harry Reppert Pointing Out Landfall at Is Mujeres</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5O3os0K26hhGYBVKSHxDhv4twgbNvZsCHGwi0Z1-x-xdT73XlTPrhZlq2N3kwm0-mCzMCtMDZl1Sd7Z7Erl2TQS6jHvda2n054-tlbBo_z4w3UT5R1DcKXLNB8NdiYD__1EnwRQHcK_mh/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520276%25255B2%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 276" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="184" alt="Winter 2011 276" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-6P4B92baRJ4/TkAVB0z7aWI/AAAAAAAABNE/jA4LWLGrkps/Winter%2525202011%252520276_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-5RU_zUsrs3Q/TkAVCZai98I/AAAAAAAABOI/lISLjIoaHcA/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520432%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="316"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-5RU_zUsrs3Q/TkAVCZai98I/AAAAAAAABOM/ODH2dUydhmE/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520C%252520432%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 432" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="184" alt="Winter 2011 C 432" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh13ABB2eblzj4KB0xwpIbji-0xVXvoKhQd6U_75PxfzqBWDgh1Q17lUERLWsnZXkZbzlwtqzhVcIEVTL1MfsTs6U_SMWVBO6Xs0rSY1XdveboH5ZV2C0wsSVjqGhdNyErGAOP_yXWZ3g-E/?imgmax=800" width="324" border="0" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5O3os0K26hhGYBVKSHxDhv4twgbNvZsCHGwi0Z1-x-xdT73XlTPrhZlq2N3kwm0-mCzMCtMDZl1Sd7Z7Erl2TQS6jHvda2n054-tlbBo_z4w3UT5R1DcKXLNB8NdiYD__1EnwRQHcK_mh/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520276%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="269"> <p align="center">Luxury Resorts Line the Beaches</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="316"> <p align="center">Motor Yacht Prince Abdul Aziz off Cancun</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>Lest we loose site of how far up the ladder of luxury goes, consider the yacht Prince Abdul Aziz. It belongs to the Saudi Royal Family and when she was built in 1984 was the biggest private yacht in the world. She is 482 feet long with a beam of 60 feet and a draft of 16 feet. She cruises at 22 knots and was designed to accommodate only 22 guests with such amenities as a main salon copied from the Titanic.</p> <p>Speaking of a scale of luxuries: on Virago’s voyage we have visited about a dozen marinas. I believe i can speak for the entire crew when I say that Mene’s on Roatan was the least luxurious and the Acapulco Yacht Club was the most luxurious. Marina Paraiso was about average on the luxury scale and its rates were commensurate. Here are some picture of the required elements of a good marina.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="589" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="280"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYAn1Komu21AXIRrfbcH-gX8FxvDlsvHJHIMXld7ykhd20TTrglb_zS9U2D_9FhD1QgsmyCPqJ2z1m63xfPOxneoJMosZYidXtwclRC2GT0np7uctgQs2LEf0WUg3JKeEe9JPHnC95O4hR/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520548%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 548" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="216" alt="Spring 2011 548" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Kv3e3rGNNOE/TkAVGXlWxHI/AAAAAAAABNY/y2xN4GaUTV0/Spring%2525202011%252520548_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="286" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="307"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZHXJKaCL4Wc/TkAVGyu8kOI/AAAAAAAABNc/GHT3pbI2gLQ/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520550%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 550" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="217" alt="Spring 2011 550" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-3n2QJzlqZq8/TkAVHcnIS0I/AAAAAAAABNg/Af27ejHI2gQ/Spring%2525202011%252520550_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="288" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="280"> <p align="center">Peaceful Harbor</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="307"> <p align="center">Busy, Well Maintained Docks</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="280"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-HEZcnt0ahiY/TkAVIDBKZ4I/AAAAAAAABNk/vA6cLwbL0U4/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520544%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 544" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="218" alt="Spring 2011 544" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-O-I3SCLbmp8/TkAVIhL1xxI/AAAAAAAABNo/5CoLlmWxz1o/Spring%2525202011%252520544_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="289" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="307"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-M9mP9bpO3ps/TkAVJbZPQ_I/AAAAAAAABNs/fRiZQixIP_4/s1600-h/Winter%2525202011%252520279%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 279" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="215" alt="Winter 2011 279" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-oUTrBc2a4fQ/TkAVJmJQFSI/AAAAAAAABNw/lFNvROeyzfg/Winter%2525202011%252520279_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="280"> <p align="center">Pleasant Office with Cruisers’ Lounge</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="307"> <p align="center">Helpful Staff – Manager Tom </p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="280"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-59HjWm4OM4M/TkAVKUxhPuI/AAAAAAAABN0/KJm9-MMjAMc/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520549%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 549" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="218" alt="Spring 2011 549" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLYeF2Ax10zqUkDlQ3iO3AkSAUHIISafbycSH93K9oVhHC_hKSBH1ITz6gguxhPx2ICa67aqAPbyE2pOjdsPto5BhuPp3c84Fjj-X_NZLZscPbEC7RnDIZHuAZY0dDlTIPOc5R-NLcGTXu/?imgmax=800" width="289" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-3vFHXx77fVk/TkAVLd3CouI/AAAAAAAABN8/tOK_zX-oRpQ/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520543%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="307"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-jKLWQ-qS9Vc/TkAVMQTAIhI/AAAAAAAABOA/1cuUpDJH9KA/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520547%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 547" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="217" alt="Spring 2011 547" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-AZveNbgNPKU/TkAVMn-HJsI/AAAAAAAABOE/woz-7Pq3m1s/Spring%2525202011%252520547_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="288" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="280"> <p align="center">Gathering Spot</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="307"> <p align="center">Bar or Cafe</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table>         <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>Some features of a marina are not photogenic, but Marina Paraiso does have wifi, laundry service, shore-side heads, and showers. Regular spraying keeps insects at bay. The weather was hot and relatively dry with warm clear water. It is about a mile and a half from downtown on a busy street well served by local taxis.</p> <p>We kept Virago at the Marina for about four months using it as a base for entertaining visiting friends and family. It is a likely stop on our planned trip back.</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-383236076559053952011-08-02T08:53:00.001-07:002011-08-02T09:09:30.841-07:00Ik Kil Cenote<p>A side trip from our tour of Chichen Itza took Marj, my sister Janice, and me to the prominent cenote or sink hole known as Ik Kil to the Mayans. As I mentioned in my account of Chichen Itza, the surrounding area is a geologic formation known as Karst. The land is characterized by its topsoil being supported upon a layer of porous limestone. This has the effect of allowing all rain water to quickly percolate through the topsoil and bedrock leaving the surface devoid of streams or lakes. In some places the bedrock will erode completely and collapse creating a deep sinkhole or cenote. So, even though the topsoil may be fertile and water easily found, farming is extremely labor intensive since water must to brought to the surface by human effort.  For instance Ik Kil is a relatively large cenote being about 200 feet in diameter with water over 120 feet deep, but its surface is 85 feet below ground level.  Keep in mind that the Mayans never developed the wheel and had no pack animals so the water had to be hand carried to the surface for irrigation. An additional drawback of Karst areas is the poor filtration of ground water that readily allows contamination of the water supply by human and animal wastes. These impediments heighten our appreciation for the accomplishments of a people who built and maintained a great civilization in the central Yucatan for centuries.</p> <p>Today the cenote Ik Kil is a popular stop for tour busses on the way to Chichen Itza allowing a cool respite from the heat and even a quick dip. Some international diving competitions have even held events here.</p> <p>    </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="643" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="324"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-55_RHP_oPIA/TjgdfPqLicI/AAAAAAAABL8/aEsR13TM0T0/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520426%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 426" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="242" alt="Spring 2011 426" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LGvIAm3EG3M/TjgdfztU9rI/AAAAAAAABMA/xjaO1JGnIas/Spring%2525202011%252520426_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="321" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="317"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1Ppc4sW7ZA5h-LcEKmWJ0wriydhk_3HcJnt-NBXMckSeTsTwIUg4MfFOxuB_pS3leUiAN9WXIi4JSHzYyEbJduWGIFEh4QI4jAWZlwzxhorlMzQ9M5pQuoCDdPT6beY9bvzMHlKS56l5v/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520428%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 428" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="241" alt="Spring 2011 428" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeC0kpe-H-JHBlolopRog5UA_U5Dyr2nNAh1fSNosBY-U5j909vct2ff2KEBXYdLNrvuOLEp4Kkg6u2J_wdsUmMfbWaiNdrEGfW-tZLbv8z4M3hzV4PY4ClJSJ_qzfraqBJbstJGPhgDNY/?imgmax=800" width="320" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="324"> <p align="center">View From the Top<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LgWssKQ-VMo/TjgdiLvvB7I/AAAAAAAABMk/uLvE2HtXFnY/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520429%25255B3%25255D.jpg"></a></p> </td> <td valign="top" width="317"> <p align="center">On the Way Down</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="324"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LgWssKQ-VMo/TjgdiLvvB7I/AAAAAAAABMo/Nb_COIl3mHU/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520429%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 429" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="243" alt="Spring 2011 429" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-xwToGATo_CM/TjgdjQ1ZkoI/AAAAAAAABMU/0cTElpUZwBg/Spring%2525202011%252520429_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="322" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LgWssKQ-VMo/TjgdiLvvB7I/AAAAAAAABMs/mr3iepDLE4E/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520429%25255B2%25255D.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="317"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDlOiKM6Du2y13DMfZPGu0RGWLJeXev01xM7K5MvkoiEZxWGO_2vhKxxy4SmRN1zeOS7wOw0AxbaXQYd4FEyTlCTgbCNhquho3aNU7d1uU_GYWoF-caCJDTVqgkwpybPArJFjNpa2Fji2x/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520440%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 440" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="246" alt="Spring 2011 440" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-aRK_UMFI-jc/TjgdlY6R7RI/AAAAAAAABMg/OpRhgazEbA4/Spring%2525202011%252520440_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="326" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="324"> <p align="center">View From the First Gallery</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="317"> <p align="center">View From the Bottom</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-41064058691297452292011-07-11T16:44:00.001-07:002011-08-02T09:33:17.222-07:00Chichen Itza<h2></h2> <h3>Background</h3> <p>In February Marj and I accompanied by my sister Janice toured Chichen Itza. Although I had been nearly as close to several other ancient Mesoamerican sites on Virago’s voyage, this was the only chance that Marj had an opportunity to visit one. She is more interested in the Olmecs, but Mayans hold some fascination for her.  Bill Eddy, on the other hand, was on Virago at Isla Mujeres also, but professed no interest since he had seen Chichen Itza on the Discovery Channel. I had to admit that I had felt little enthusiasm for visiting the other ancient sites of Mexico and Central America, but a family outing to a nearby site was like a double word score.</p> <p>So I set out to learn a little of the back story before our visit. Previously, we had read Jared Diamond’s books <u>Guns Germs and Steel</u> and <u>Collapse</u>. From him we learned that for all their sophistication and accomplishments the Mayans lacked several things that would have made their lives easier. First, they lacked pack animals. They had no horses, oxen, or even llamas and since they were over one hundred miles from the coast or any navigable river, all commerce and construction carriage had to be done by human porters. Second, they never learned to use wheeled vehicles: possibly because of the lack of animal power. Third, the primary food crops available were corn and beans. It is estimated that about 70% of their diet was corn. This made it difficult for peasant farmers to support much more than their own families. Fourth, the broad plain surrounding Chichen Itza rests upon karst (a porous limestone) that lets the heavy seasonal rains seep into the ground. This water is most available in deep sink holes called cenotes from which Chichen Itza gets its name meaning: “city of the water sorcerers”.</p> <p>We also purchased a fold out guide published by <a title="http://www.editorialveras.com/index.html" href="http://www.editorialveras.com/index.html">http://www.editorialveras.com/index.html</a>. This has a good description of the history and the buildings of Chichen Itza along with several maps. (I used this as a reference to the pictures we took while there).  The short history is simple. The city was developed between 495 AD and 800 AD by Puuc peoples. The site of their buildings is to the South of the main center. Their architecture is shown in the Nunnery, Observatory, Church, and East Annex buildings. The city was abandoned for over one hundred years and was taken over by a Toltec people from the West called the Itza. They grew the city beginning about 950 AD. Structures like El Castillo, Ball Court, High Priest’s Grave, Temple of the Deer, and Platform of Eagles and Jaguars show their style. The city ruled the entire Yucatan Peninsula until it was mysteriously abandoned yet again around 1,200 AD. In <u>Collapse</u>, Jared Diamond devotes an entire chapter to the mysterious demise of such a great civilization. The city remained pretty much abandoned until rediscovered around 1840. Currently it is managed by the government of Mexico as both an important historical site and tourist Mecca.</p> <h3>Restoration</h3> <p>It should be kept in mind that many of the structures at Chichen Itza have been extensively restored. Since the Mayans did not use huge stones as did the Inca and Egyptians, archeologists have had to take some license in their reconstructions. Many times it is not possible for them to be sure to which structure a particular stone belongs. To some extent the Chichen Itza we see today is a re-imagining of the original. This theme is extensively developed by Quetzil E. Castaneda in his book <u>In the Museum of Maya Culture: Touring Chichen Itza</u> where he examines the Mexican government’s desire to make Chichen Itza a tourist Mecca. He also describes how an earlier Mexican president worked to develop a Mayan class consciousness to further his own political ideas. He points out that the city has been a tourist destination from its inception as a destination for religious pilgrims.</p> <h3>Puuc Chichen Itza</h3> <p>The old part of Chicen Itza is less grand than the newer part and the jaguar motif is not found. The Nunnery and the Church were named by the Spanish for some perceived resemblance to buildings with which they were familiar. Their original purposes are not clear. The observatory does exhibit features that line up with phases of Venus which was prominent in Mayan calendars.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-LM2BinL_v2E/ThuBv8Fvm1I/AAAAAAAABKE/Hc9HJwSA82U/s1600-h/Nunnery%2525201%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Nunnery 1" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="218" alt="Nunnery 1" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-kJLJDOvNWo0/ThuBwazplhI/AAAAAAAABKI/IFQbD3YxKLw/Nunnery%2525201_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-Nm1CLT7r9dM/ThuB0sFtGxI/AAAAAAAABKM/gpJiDFkNksg/s1600-h/Observatory%2525201%25255B3%25255D.jpg"> <br /> <br /><img title="Observatory 1" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="172" alt="Observatory 1" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNxpT7hCFcui4Jt_eAIElAWyLtD6leke6Zo6HRXIyEVhe9Nd0GFi9yWdHdJhDp3Vzd7s6HBn81EPUtAgrMjgQpleE-lqa4Ufze0HMCpXw8uD1xadAWjiZ-B_nAEimy0bkIut9NMsMXTbE0/?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">The Nunnery</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">The Observatory</p> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/--mE8JEbAxOg/ThuB9bHb5XI/AAAAAAAABKU/DBCknlRVnMo/s1600-h/Church%2525201%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Church 1" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="223" alt="Church 1" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-pxq1LN_7qaA/ThuB_nLKooI/AAAAAAAABKY/IMES9R9Pn0A/Church%2525201_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="296" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-ZBndMaJH_eg/ThuCLdab74I/AAAAAAAABKc/NNHGkpjA7J0/s1600-h/East%252520Annex%2525202%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="East Annex 2" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="226" alt="East Annex 2" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-wuTbU5dj3dw/ThuCMAaCZWI/AAAAAAAABKg/KXe8MGO4T88/East%252520Annex%2525202_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="300" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">The Church</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">The East Annex Door to the Cosmos</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <h3>Toltec Cichen Itza</h3> <p>Once the city became the Itza capital, the buildings got grander and the plumed serpent joined the  jaguar in carvings. The one shown has the eyes and nose of a jaguar along with the forked tongue of the serpent and the wings and talons of the eagle—all in one carving! </p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrmzXORm0fWSS1rIQqk9Db2xgooNFoq1LL5qsSWPhXuK96lJQZ3axz2f2qIo94feG2OcYEa_F9QsoqZTWMSVoN0KGLwHsckmTNvIvLEZ2QIJjHBQnWfOTg_NllVHEduMaMKwmEEq4D_X73/s1600-h/Platform%252520of%252520Eagles%252520and%252520Jaguars%25252011%25255B10%25255D.jpg"><img title="Platform of Eagles and Jaguars 11" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="817" alt="Platform of Eagles and Jaguars 11" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-YvwQkTZE_og/ThuCZtN_o0I/AAAAAAAABKo/1weXEsESk1k/Platform%252520of%252520Eagles%252520and%252520Jaguars%25252011_thumb%25255B6%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="614" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>The grandest of all the structures was named El Castillo (the castle) by the Spanish, but was probably the Pyramid of Kukulkan: the plumed serpent. It is over 90 feet tall and was built over an earlier pyramid. In the twenties and thirties the Mexican government excavated the temple at the top of the buried structure and created a tunnel up to it from the small door at the base of the pyramid. Currently, both the outside steps and the inside tunnel are closed to the public. The sides of the stairways are representations of serpents and on the two equinoxes the shadows upon the stairs resemble a snake slithering down the steps.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-uuP_2RKS87I/ThuCaSzwLhI/AAAAAAAABKs/SaN-sBNvX4o/s1600-h/El%252520Castillo%2525203%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="El Castillo 3" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="480" alt="El Castillo 3" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-NlUA5XNG_aw/ThuCbeWHkaI/AAAAAAAABKw/x5Fz4Ykwj_k/El%252520Castillo%2525203_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="638" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>The most extensive structure at the site is the Ball Court. There are many such courts in Mesoamerica, but this is the largest (166 by 88 meters): over twice the area of a modern football field. </p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNlSkS9Ydy2rOsoN30hep7nd2c12F9xHQfCWYO6PnIy3voJH2Id2J-kgd1xm-RZhUUEzHlbq6hyQYtoY-o6JIiDuvO0ETGx62OQhgjXg4aCQtoqbjprnaBZpNZ3sGzAwBuvwd2DVOtd6gM/s1600-h/Ballfield%2525201%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Ballfield 1" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="365" alt="Ballfield 1" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWKMSFDBXZvgXEjDFBmzFP8Z6xW8LLuf5cgLR3PdlJdXvnmpThls8m2TQkjNk6i29noY8MVxHcxkQowPDZw0h64VjvlCemGS9G1Ksxy7W6wprlt-mZkHmn7OYmu0caCImCALwtSDN_83Yc/?imgmax=800" width="646" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>A ball game was played here involving teams of seven players who strove to sent a hard rubber ball through a stone ring high on the side wall of the field. While it is commonly believed that the players used only their bodies (but not their hands) in the game, there are carvings depicting players with “rackets?”. Perhaps the game was more akin to Lacrosse than modern soccer. There is some evidence that the winning captain was decapitated thus assuring him direct entrance to Mayan heaven.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-I8DZ3c6G6A0/ThuCfLYga0I/AAAAAAAABK8/qI9TXsrRwvU/s1600-h/Ballfield%2525202%25255B5%25255D.jpg"><img title="Ballfield 2" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="402" alt="Ballfield 2" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPk1TF2a8XQYDAGVSyz7mmSklqbCIt1lK1S4Io6DehNPYPyODvKCi6Zh1CbcRFOz6-ajzO0FtQm9Xj6sUqLfXAOTbxUDFR9CKvsNHGJFfsqyqHq64ZsXIoROKEPw1dGGCppwJM50jAAgUZ/?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-TRO-BLsR1Sg/ThuKwFWkMjI/AAAAAAAABLE/SBtf7OoVTBM/s1600-h/Ballfield%2525205%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Ballfield 5" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="404" alt="Ballfield 5" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/-c62_6FCR9JI/ThuKw1zYHxI/AAAAAAAABLI/v7kuUMsuJ3E/Ballfield%2525205_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="304" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Ball Court Hoop</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Relief of Player with Club or Racket</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <h3>Cenote</h3> <p>The whole existence of the Mayan civilization in the Yucatan and Chichen Itza in particular was the availability of water in giant sink holes called cenote. The became sacred sites as well as water sources. Pilgrims would through valuable items into them to propitiate the gods. Sometimes the valuables included human sacrifices. Over 30,000 objects have been recovered from the sacred cenote of Chichen Itza. There was even a temple that may have served as a viewing stand for the priests.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-V71kovhJmx0/ThuKzTfbIJI/AAAAAAAABLM/cOKEzaQzNNc/s1600-h/Cenote%2525205%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Cenote 5" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="357" alt="Cenote 5" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-Mv0d3Kpz1yU/ThuK0TkTShI/AAAAAAAABLQ/ct7lrKtu2jM/Cenote%2525205_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="632" border="0" /></a></p> <h3>Lasting Influences</h3> <p>There are many hints Mayan architecture in Mexico today. One of the most common features is the Mayan arch. The Mayans never developed a true arch. Instead they used a corbel arch in which the top stone is flat rather being a wedge.     </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-j7pWxcmwXEA/ThugsYIR01I/AAAAAAAABLU/5AxI_mSC7XY/s1600-h/Alfred_Percival_Maudslay_%252528Chichen_Itza%25252C_1889%252529%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img title="Alfred_Percival_Maudslay_(Chichen_Itza,_1889)" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="416" alt="Alfred_Percival_Maudslay_(Chichen_Itza,_1889)" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_K2pT3Y7Hrm3EEcppe5DTWzkTdeAU1cov_5S1SHgMBD-xbYc44j8cqj2EZMRIGobZ8tfgzsacMWXV4zVaMLRi6wuSE4LI3b_5d-UFghOszMGzWvtPwLPPU4xIIHWh0kz_eorVZ1DlLP8y/?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-5xfkxafW5NA/ThugwhS8xWI/AAAAAAAABLc/PDFrPQ9Z8s8/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520003%25255B3%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 003" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="211" alt="Spring 2011 003" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-JcR00qDRZeE/Thugxcj9zQI/AAAAAAAABLg/chWqX_zqbYc/Spring%2525202011%252520003_thumb%25255B1%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-t_09khNx-ow/ThugzSRxlCI/AAAAAAAABLk/Gf3LddoZqQw/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520147%25255B9%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 147" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="211" alt="Spring 2011 147" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0eDBaLp8xfxsXs77EIYkqAQtoBKz_Xy0T7ZMVKkq0pUA4K4K3N9ZDN5gsPGQYtFPWmfdUOJoSNkb7GZibMySUu0Ji-cEiVEGoWExa836Kdzm0sq2TYpfSC_wXXJ-huYndkr37Ye5BL_5R/?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Early Photo of Mayan Arch</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Mayan Arch Theme</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <p>Some sacred symbols have become lawn ornaments.</p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <p></p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-fgUyBFC5uGo/Thug1akTrMI/AAAAAAAABLs/oZfsomZWL44/s1600-h/Chac%252520Mool%25255B12%25255D.jpg"><img title="Chac Mool" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="182" alt="Chac Mool" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-XTciim8xiwY/Thug11D6Q8I/AAAAAAAABLw/fVp8zoq803k/Chac%252520Mool_thumb%25255B8%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="320" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/-nGIOYgIGrTg/Thug444mR2I/AAAAAAAABL0/kSJnz_R_Klc/s1600-h/Spring%2525202011%252520004%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Spring 2011 004" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="200" alt="Spring 2011 004" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglkAs1Kk6VaDJ6CL62y4yRPK9QVkiE-f-P9YDUTzvrhXJlBSjBHScqptYomD_zcTWqDNPeqTKkK0q_efhB2f7k8SD-C47ZlaE_AtiIon9J8lQUaXhOzVORa_Kzgpurr-90eosiB1q9X9KP/?imgmax=800" width="267" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Original Chac Mool</p> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> <p align="center">Chac Mool as Park Ornament</p> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-64920781504331914012011-05-05T12:54:00.001-07:002011-05-05T12:54:28.113-07:00Ixchel Gone Missing<p>I’m here in Isla Mujeres and can see some changes since I was here seven weeks ago. There is a very small Mayan ruin at the South end of IM (Punta Sur). It is surrounded by a nice sculpture garden and fronted by a small mercado devoted to the tourist trade. The ruins were sacred to Ixchel who was a Mayan Goddess of Fertility. On my last trip I photographed an almost anatomically correct statue of Ixchell at the mercado entrance, but found its role usurped by a brazen hussy of a statue that would do Norman Rockwell proud.</p> <p>Here is the earthy version before and after:</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TcMAWfnjBoI/AAAAAAAABJs/lFsUsAL8fAc/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20440%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 440" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="455" alt="Winter 2011 C 440" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TcMAXv5cPVI/AAAAAAAABJw/mlpSOHjnK3c/Winter%202011%20C%20440_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="257" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TcMAYXEZCNI/AAAAAAAABJ0/o_VDN30Woxg/s1600-h/Ixchel%20Gone%20Missing%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Ixchel Gone Missing" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="455" alt="Ixchel Gone Missing" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TcMAZ57XgnI/AAAAAAAABJ4/8Ia-JgfKDRM/Ixchel%20Gone%20Missing_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="312" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>And here is the tourist friendly replacement. What happened t<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TcMAbTShsyI/AAAAAAAABJ8/2ccsrAItiqU/s1600-h/Ixchel%20ala%20Norman%20Rockwell%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Ixchel ala Norman Rockwell" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; margin-left: 0px; border-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="466" alt="Ixchel ala Norman Rockwell" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TcMAci6ysWI/AAAAAAAABKA/p-7sMVu4ytk/Ixchel%20ala%20Norman%20Rockwell_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="300" align="right" border="0" /></a>o the fertility part? What we have now is the usual white man’s Indian Princess fantasy.</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-31721502394424182102011-03-18T21:18:00.001-07:002011-03-18T21:18:02.453-07:00Bocas del Toro to Isla Mujeres, Mexico 1/19-2/10/11 Part 2<p>Sorry the end of the journey will appear after the beginning. Be sure to read Part I. This text is by Bill Eddy with illustrations and a few added comments by the captain.</p> <p><b><u>Tuesday 2/1/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>After a night of great sailing, we arrived in the Belize Harbor eastern entrance channel around 9:30am. The channel is quite long, narrow, and crooked, with steep sides of coral reefs so we had to really follow the guides and chart plotter carefully. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuNwHPr9I/AAAAAAAABHA/o8KdBERdJzM/s1600-h/Belize%20Channel%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Belize Channel" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="241" alt="Belize Channel" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuOWyNd6I/AAAAAAAABHE/oejIaydxC-s/Belize%20Channel_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="578" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600">Channel 1/2 Mile Wide and Turns 6 Times in 12 Miles – We Short Jibed In & Short Tacked Out</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <p>We had pancakes on the way in. We passed the giant new passenger liner Royal Caribbean’s Liberty of the Seas. </p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuO_HPpSI/AAAAAAAABHI/9-aUXaLmtwQ/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20380%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 380" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="332" alt="Winter 2011 C 380" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuPSyC0aI/AAAAAAAABHM/wTUZZ5P_0lM/Winter%202011%20C%20380_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="587" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>They were anchored along side the channel tendering passengers into Belize City. As we approached the city, Paul contacted the harbormaster of the Radisson Hotel Marina. The response was that mooring or docking there would be difficult and exposed to harsh wind and tidal conditions. More later on that. Captain Paul wisely decided to abort that marina in favor of Cucumber Cay Marina about 5 miles out of town. The depth and protection looked better in the guides. We side tied in the protected marina with the help of dock worker Mario at 11:30am, ending this leg of the trip. We relaxed with a cold Balboa Beer and waited for an endless string of officials to come to the boat for check in procedures.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">     <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFCMxPBZZVTcolioKAWcxf9KmcbCCX8xETTTi3_JLhyyeWd7hmepNhZ02GhzjU1lW_opSoZ3NzVvuv5_MMpGb4x2L9jKGqEq4zCkUAxWOojopZ1JmvluqCduKjw2PwbWzr4G33Rhvz_ZMF/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20389%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 389" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="156" alt="Winter 2011 C 389" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuQIKF0nI/AAAAAAAABHU/3L6zkNNUB-E/Winter%202011%20C%20389_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="274" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuQyi5l1I/AAAAAAAABHY/6yx2W-S_TVo/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20386%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 386" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="162" alt="Winter 2011 C 386" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuRBrbSrI/AAAAAAAABHc/eQnnDxNaFec/Winter%202011%20C%20386_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuPwbbrbI/AAAAAAAABHg/Fyy0jdS_444/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20389%5B2%5D.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuSMr_giI/AAAAAAAABHk/qAx_0mkTEvg/s1600-h/IMG_0118%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="IMG_0118" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="218" alt="IMG_0118" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuSgoEZrI/AAAAAAAABHo/AD6RcuZ7FSY/IMG_0118_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="291" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuTJiK8HI/AAAAAAAABHs/K8z0_yxjuWk/s1600-h/IMG_0122%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="IMG_0122" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="216" alt="IMG_0122" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuTmkdIJI/AAAAAAAABHw/106A0KdjRuE/IMG_0122_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="288" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>From 12:30pm-3:00pm we had a parade of officials from immigration, agriculture, health, customs and the port captain come aboard. (Captain’s Note: this was the only port where a stores list was required. I also saw three officials pile into a beat up old Honda for the ‘cab’ ride back to the city.) Besides their fees, each charged Paul $30 for travel costs from town to the Cay to see us. What a rip off. The Immigration guy Charlie Leslie talked our ears off about a Christmas trip he just took to California. He toured LA, Hollywood and San Francisco. He was crazed about the Hollywood stars he thought he saw, the snow at Big Bear, and the GG Bridge. What a character. All the reps that came spoke good English and the Belize dollar equaled one US dollar.</p> <p>After the above ripoff, we took naps and called our wives to catch up. Up at 5pm for showers and dinner at their dockside restaurant. Good food, friendly staff and a view of their water park being rebuilt after a hurricane ruined it last year. They are trying hard to make this Cay a tourist destination park. There is even a gift shop and small museum there. Everything was pretty beat up including the shower room. It had no electricity and large holes in the floor. We used Virago’s showers after that. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuT7bLrMI/AAAAAAAABH0/JAC21l4qXVE/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20414%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 414" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="165" alt="Winter 2011 C 414" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBsl2ZhlnMYblVTlihaYaOk8GmlXKpD4OjDPJBv3rhJesfluuO2mvs2M7Q_x7132LPKYCq6k6uNUIXMCoZt-2WuMt4tRsPhxmB55SX06XGMOAs_kcz4Xira3S3AoqikT4RfCegXZrYWCCw/?imgmax=800" width="291" border="0" /></a>     </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0sG75tt09kYDKAtVosDQcEhGqWCAsKo1JKCHGOPJ0aTU9CF0FEf4ujiAOE9_dlgtsNGCpPkH-HTIX1uG6kMH7VN7eEln1Pmko31ZRN6vMG1DNJIMUAaeK7k2bmoWLOWOlk_quD3TFxCch/s1600-h/IMG_0120%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="IMG_0120" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="IMG_0120" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgri9SgbBi6Ve7qTeOwrePDNP3uGegoeuiPM-NcqbTZjP3QzBYK_9Vav-yAWwqBpeuW3_WK_5LpOSw2sjGliNeoAwkQj7t_cw_ds-nHhWIgiSBptkiRJTY_KfUZ7dsbWAZigT6_3WaRK143/?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuVhXB2FI/AAAAAAAABIE/ClecHS3fbjs/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20269%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 269" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="217" alt="Winter 2011 269" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuWHTwAtI/AAAAAAAABII/aZbtT_p3Tu0/Winter%202011%20269_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="288" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuWpCS3WI/AAAAAAAABIM/r00wjYgKHu8/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20268%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 268" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="218" alt="Winter 2011 268" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuWzkwntI/AAAAAAAABIQ/VCieEd_ivSY/Winter%202011%20268_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuXaAkayI/AAAAAAAABIU/BD-Ad1Z_wNY/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20411%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 411" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="165" alt="Winter 2011 C 411" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuX6a1nDI/AAAAAAAABIY/S7INUcziCE8/Winter%202011%20C%20411_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="291" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZM2hz4r3xv6vjL72dIfe6VwTZmyk36sADE8vCJWgENdVLn9DpuZlefRQHGClnD6QObp3lRim9vpMXUB3OysRAkGrNVthDYFOM9bNCKbXdjTj3pQZOHXtrLEr-bzea7PyMCw_WHDc149CW/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20408%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 408" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="161" alt="Winter 2011 C 408" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5gQ3zllzdazWMNu0A4-68MmDjJvHYNWoFrfzH9s3nqdM89EET3w7xh-WrsHcVLh4pv6teEw_tbd1ME30-fCTrIvqktvEKqdMFCjWi07GSyLATQL8YM-Lf8ff6LNg6nJ1tMMaOrUm09auC/?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b><u>Wednesday 2/2/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 7am for coffee and wait for the Port Captain’s rep who no showed yesterday to come and clear us in and out since we leave tomorrow. He came at 10am after many phone calls. The Customs guy came as well. After clearing us in and out, they offered to drive us in their own cars to the town government center for immigration check out. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7FJJyaNNr41DWok_Lyy_L7JQb1DtWvvBevg2RG4wZbOqpoTDmGgB4vtglSsP2K2h1xzpJwFFtoU4Tzx0N0twBNwATEh1aDrheLtFlkUcRFsuEw59zqKdIn0843fJ2M-BnA7sGYF8LQ1rt/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20391%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 391" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="169" alt="Winter 2011 C 391" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuZJfoaZI/AAAAAAAABIo/UMXdDRCtjCs/Winter%202011%20C%20391_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="298" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300">Charles Leslie who had regaled us with his stories of visiting San Francisco and Los Angeles processed our immigration exit paperwork. He chastised the captain for not having a proper crew list. They crew restrained their natural tendency to leap to his defense by laughing.</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>They patiently waited while we checked out, got our passport stamps then drove us to downtown Belize for the Port Captain fee payment and check out. The Port Captain’s rep Michael stopped his car short of the office and requested a “tip” of $30 before he drove us the rest of the way to the front door. After a 45 minute wait we cleared out by 2pm and $78.</p> <p>We then walked downtown Belize City. We passed a big Catholic school and the crowded cruise ship tender dock. We visited the Radisson </p> <p>Hotel Marina where we were supposed to stay. Indeed the docks were useless. Nothing but bare concrete pilings and seemingly no electric service or water. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuZrtbGAI/AAAAAAAABIs/JwLXMjK93k8/s1600-h/IMG_0124%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="IMG_0124" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="216" alt="IMG_0124" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuZzcd1mI/AAAAAAAABIw/EjBL7nsq6tk/IMG_0124_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="288" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE8LfMCxQW2DTfPMKn1ujPu3moZFzZi_mGw5EDFEMOhJSxupKnnFWFcI3w2A_Ql34bV7Yny_TKcHW4EyqaPQasulfDaCLYOv94a2l4djpaBvTZ5QNXHRtCbceMUXVvSRcpf_bkyyECxf0o/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20073%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 073" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Winter 2011 D 073" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQuajKd_FI/AAAAAAAABI4/pwarcl-rLbI/Winter%202011%20D%20073_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">The Closer You Get, the <strike>Better </strike>Worse They Look</td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <p>We had late lunch at the Radisson, then toured the Museum of Belize. A very interesting and well presented museum full of Mayan and pirate artifacts and history. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> The museum doesn’t allow photographs in most galleries. I did get this picture in the pirates room. Appropriate don’t you think. It shows the rations on British naval vessels. I thought the gallon of beer a day was especially interesting. <br /><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQua-CXmmI/AAAAAAAABI8/MIf2rOsYk0g/s1600-h/Rations%20on%20Ships%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Rations on Ships" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="190" alt="Rations on Ships" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6vL7y1efmtJ_FDjiLMfT6QhTyNiUISaiTJtBdf73uMem-2EGrxCArXTto6dRoyoLO2x2UqHqy0dB5wyJt-pG4WQZBxHl-ne9Eb3fJaR2tLNmrzTdaKQmL_yAeaLaETbT2HDssJJqFlRVD/?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a> <br /> <br />The prison was the site of hangings and displays the following official “Table of Drops” to be used to ensure that the neck of the prisoner was broken by the fall. Too long a drop and the prisoner could be decapitated, </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQub8v0NgI/AAAAAAAABJE/SDOnT4CjE0g/s1600-h/Table%20of%20Drops%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Table of Drops" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="256" alt="Table of Drops" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQucBLuwfI/AAAAAAAABJI/XxNfWOiijOY/Table%20of%20Drops_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="288" border="0" /></a> <br /> <br />The last person to be hanged in Belize was a woman who locked her abusive husband in the outhouse, poured gasoline over it, and ignited it. Despite an international outcry pleading for mercy she was hanged shortly after the child she was carrying at the time of her arrest was delivered.</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <p>The museum building used to be the main prison for Belize. Next we walked the less than attractive downtown business district and provisioned at the recommended Bottom Dollar $ Supermarket. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQucgNnB3I/AAAAAAAABJM/UhSyyMKuWrg/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20261%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 261" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="446" alt="Winter 2011 261" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQudJ2DkPI/AAAAAAAABJQ/BSraT_caWgA/Winter%202011%20261_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="594" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600">Traditional Fishing Boats with the Newest Economic Center, Cruise Ships Viewed from Downtown</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <p>We think that the nicer areas of Belize City lie outside the town proper but we had no time to tour that given the time we wasted with government officials. We and our bags of supplies hailed a cab back to Cucumber Cay for $15. The cab driver, Earl was friendly and talkative. He shared with us that the government is not listening to the people’s wishes and letting the country and city’s infrastructure deteriorate. We could see that clearly in town and on the outskirts that we traveled. They are however accommodating lots of cruise ships but nobody knows where that revenue is going. We had cocktails on board then dinner at the marina again. We watched 3 cruise ships leave the harbor in the early evening all lit up.</p> <p><b><u>Thursday 2/3/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 7am to partly cloudy skies and light rain. We watered the tanks, organized supplies, paid the marina bill and left for Mexico at 10:30am. In this writer’s opinion, we couldn’t leave soon enough. The marina was a cut above Nene’s in San Andres but 5 miles from civilization so we were stuck in the middle of nowhere. At least in Columbia we could walk to town and had choices for food and supplies. By 10:40am, we cleared the marina breakwater and put up our sails. We spent until 3:30pm tacking out the ship channel. Good sailing and lots of small islets to see, but again we had to be careful with the coral depths at the side of the channel proper. At 3:30pm we made the final starboard tack for our 250 mile sail to Mexico. No rain, 9-12k ENE breeze, 2-3’swells and boat speeds of 5-7k. Ideal sailing night. We reefed the main for comfort and still hit 8.8k speeds. Before our watches we had a beef stew dinner, salad, green beans. Around 9pm the Carnival Legend passed us heading to Cozumel from Belize. </p> <p><b><u>Friday 2/4/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>We sailed solidly through all night watches, passing into Mexico from Belize around midnight. At 4am the Holland American liner Ryndome passed behind us headed for Punta Indico for what they call Puerto Costa Maya. On our charts it looks like a swamp area on shore, but inland was the Chetumal Mayan ruins where passengers were apparently going. The area had a pilot station as well.</p> <p><em>Captain’s Note: I the rules of the road it is clearly stated that any overtaken vessel is a stand on vessel. It also states that any maneuvers to avoid collision should be made boldly enough to be clearly visible. Still, I was surprised to see a cruise ship that was gaining on our stern make about a thirty degree turn to port a mile behind us and then pass about a mile on our port side.</em> </p> <p>At 7am we were 8 miles off the Mexican coast on a direct bearing to the east side of Cozumel. We are doing 7.5k with beam wind of 12k. Beautiful sunrise with 115 miles to go to Isla Mujeres. Again we estimate that we will arrive too early in the morning (dark) at Isla Mujeres, but we said screw it as the sailing was perfect. We’ll decide about slowing down later. At 8 am another Holland American liner the Amsterdam passed us heading to Costa Maya like her earlier sistership. At the watch change we had French toast, sausage and Harry’s fried corn meal mush sticks for breakfast.</p> <p>By mid afternoon, we decided to slow down for an ultimate daylight landing in Isla Mujeres. The wind abated to 6-10k so we left the reef in and spent the day in the 5k SOG range. Sloppy ride but effective. We had 16 hours to go. We kept the speed down as long as we could stand it, then by mutual agreement sped up to enjoy the final day and night of the trades. We sailed till midnight at 5-7k. Had a nice beef stew dinner and observed the Ryndome pass us heading home to Tampa Florida.</p> <p><b><u>Saturday 2/5/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>From 12-4am, Harry and I were on the “death watch”, in charge of slowing us down on main only. We made 20 miles at .1-1.5k boat speed but 3-5k SOG due to currents behind us. At 4am, we were converged on by 3 cruise ships at once, all heading to Cozumel from Florida. It is comforting to know that these ships’ bridges are staffed with awake, competent and well equipped folks. The Carnival Elation (involved earlier in a fire on the Pacific coast), the Carnival Inspiration and the Royal Caribbean Navigator of the Seas all steamed by with all lights ablaze. On our port side horizon we could see the lights of Cozumel. With the wind abated to 4-5k, we decided to bag the sails for the last time and motor on to Isla Mujeres.</p> <p>At 7am sunrise, Jim and Paul had us between Cancun high rises and beaches and the south western tip of Isla Mujeres. We carefully and slowly traversed the entire reef ridden western shore of the island with its hotels and beaches clearly visible. We entered the harbor channel at 9:20am at the north western end of the island. Paul contacted Marina Paraiso to let them know we had arrived. We had to kill a few minutes while they moved a boat out of our reserved slip. We berthed up at 10am, ending a spectacular sailing trip. There were lots of berth neighbors and marina crew to help us back into our semi med tie berth. With our bow thruster we really didn’t need help but great gestures and made it effortless.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQudoLBibI/AAAAAAAABJU/XcExEKN-YJ0/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20311%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 311" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="434" alt="Winter 2011 311" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYQueUSw3gI/AAAAAAAABJY/g4Q8WV-2uMA/Winter%202011%20311_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="578" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>At 11am customs and immigration came. Mario a dock assistant acted as our agent and we had all paperwork done easily in ½ hour, including getting all 4 Tourist Cards that would enable us to fly home. All this unlike the nightmare we experienced in Belize. At 11:30am we took our laundry to Elizabeth at the marina office, called home, relaxed and had a couple of our last Panamanian Balboa beers. After very long naps, we showered, had cocktails and cabbed to town ($3 per car load) for a beachside dinner at Picus Restaurant, as recommended by a boat neighbor. Back to the boat and crashed by 10:30pm.</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-29867470960789014682011-03-18T17:29:00.001-07:002011-03-18T21:20:46.250-07:00Bocas del Toro, Panama to Isla Mujeres, Mexico 1/19-2/10/11 Part 1<p><b><u></u></b></p> <p>This text is by Bill Eddy with illustrations and a few comments added by the captain.</p> <p><b><u>Trip Summary:</u></b></p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="0" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td width="166">Ports</td> <td width="95">Nautical Miles</td> <td width="79">Total Hours</td> <td width="77">Avg. Knots</td> <td width="85">Sailed Hours</td> <td width="50">% Sail</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="166">Bocas del Toro to <br />San Andres Is., Columbia</td> <td>204</td> <td>38.75</td> <td>5.26</td> <td>10</td> <td>26%</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="166">San Andres Is. to <br />Roatan Is., Honduras</td> <td>430</td> <td>66.00</td> <td>6.52</td> <td>64</td> <td>97%</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="166">Roatan Is., to <br />Belize City, Belize</td> <td>138</td> <td>21.00</td> <td>6.57</td> <td>20</td> <td>95%</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td width="166">Belize City to <br />Isla Mujeres, Mexico</td> <td>283</td> <td>47.50</td> <td>5.96</td> <td>41</td> <td>86%</td> </tr> <tr> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> <td> </td> </tr> <tr> <td><strong>Totals:</strong></td> <td><strong>1,055 </strong></td> <td><strong>173.25</strong></td> <td><strong>6.09</strong></td> <td><strong>135</strong></td> <td><strong>78%</strong></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p><b><u>Virago Crew:</u></b></p> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p>Paul Goss, Captain ( Retired Business Consultant)</p> <p>Bill Eddy, (Retired HR Exec.)</p> <p>Harry Reppert, (Retired Oil Exec.)</p> <p>Jim Graves, (Retired Educator)</p> <p><b><u>Day by Day Comments and Data:</u></b></p> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p><b><u>Wednesday 1/19/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p>I arrived at Bocas del Toro after 23 hour trip from San Jose, CA at 5:30pm. Harry kindly met me at the Bocas International. We cabbed to the water taxi, then across a small bay to the Bocas del Toro Yacht Club and Marina, arriving at Virago at 6:00pm. Harry had arrived in Panama a few days earlier and spent time touring Panama City, the Canal and other small Panamanian villages along the way. Jim Graves arrived just hours ahead of me from Ventura via San Jose Costa Rica.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXXZ5n6P59XaytjH-wzBWKGhZ2MAk3SC865jXYgonSBoNbWK6ndX-qxpGhGog2m-QHdgWLxZiz9ua7zlEr34JU0LL7Xrb6ujjFmF0yM5Lg7QUBgr0M5Dq9HOQdrKwN8YRfKtlWhXtteJPU/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20182%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 182" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="222" alt="Winter 2011 182" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4SzQ5oYI/AAAAAAAABBw/Jf9Q-FYmqPo/Winter%202011%20182_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300">Well, maybe not exactly how we arrived, but geezers on holiday just wanted  to have fun. <br /> <br /><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4TSsp_2I/AAAAAAAABB0/K0-ifrUkyBA/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20183%5B8%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 183" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="171" alt="Winter 2011 183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6ra5LcmrSuP65j2AkxJQXJLQQ0kdN3TpLzA8uS0REpZrgZO32kM0qn0GQZT0kI_lyA3uqlfltbclSaEjYAzgy3F5zsReQo3k47Pt9EhZzEOwfU8a9ZKRd2XrUnXS7x2klHqY8jAGcgWx_/?imgmax=800" width="272" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4UO8E4pI/AAAAAAAABB8/FAdIW7Ps4us/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20300%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 300" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="168" alt="Winter 2011 C 300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja_0xPw6cf1a53tSrCHaiv3YmUjloR9hPRlaTzGmOIu9ussSb1kChl5SjxWdCsscuhq19OBUcOSzUXyADMJcMHp7JqyvroaQ4C8VtuWJW2wZB6n_cxDn4CKhCQEV4XxkyCw_qzKONJvvR4/?imgmax=800" width="295" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieRs_JICJCMjqcUOu_4wqrKetfzpsdNqR4Vo-t2NplF9rclm_HKyfRpaGRYC5_rhdkvJTK2brUX5kpO5q0BZI4tF6smaIKs2mNIO9eBHCRXuyO9Yf3tJC0rVzcH5J7eZHOU2lHqnRs2h3a/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20301%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 301" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="168" alt="Winter 2011 C 301" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4ViSKlsI/AAAAAAAABCI/eDqVPzYvqWI/Winter%202011%20C%20301_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="296" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>After greetings, we all pitched in and did some interior mold and mildew cleaning before we stored our personal gear. This was necessary because Virago sat in Puntarenas Costa Rica and Bocas for a few months in the heat and humidity, the perfect incubator for mildew. Once cleaned we relaxed with a welcome sundowner cocktail then went to dinner at a marina side palapa café called the Calypso Cantina and Grill. The Calypso was run by a South African national named Dillon and his partner who lived on their sailboat in the harbor. We enjoyed the special of the day, lasagna, salad and French bread in a wonderful relaxed atmosphere situated between a large anchorage bay and the marina. A picture of rustic beauty right out of a sailing magazine. We frequented the place each night for dinner while we were berthed in Bocas, as noted below.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4WOjx0vI/AAAAAAAABCM/9SCKCGc_XU0/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20163%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 163" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="218" alt="Winter 2011 163" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4WqZ1DQI/AAAAAAAABCQ/qT1tDU4sOUE/Winter%202011%20163_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="289" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4XGt7JuI/AAAAAAAABJc/VDyPkUlf_PM/s1600-h/Winter20111712.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4XGt7JuI/AAAAAAAABJg/WxWe1B9AqA4/s1600-h/Winter20111713.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 171" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="222" alt="Winter 2011 171" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4YhKCdNI/AAAAAAAABCc/EEgDO0Jk5V8/Winter%202011%20171_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="294" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">Marina Office</td> <td valign="top" width="300">Heads, Showers, and Laundry</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4ZG7CxsI/AAAAAAAABCg/W9kEb308fcc/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20166%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 166" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="218" alt="Winter 2011 166" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4Zu30RqI/AAAAAAAABCk/85_Ip8lQiAQ/Winter%202011%20166_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4aOa4c2I/AAAAAAAABCo/j9aReslxm6o/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20161%5B2%5D.jpg"></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimwpryCKhrzXXdIShHmhGe46Ree1TiBFrk0AVYAxPVWre_kS9lZG26wF-TRJTmgNYGcJpDYBFTNlBuPwgIozryfcFlmw5Tu3e6kV8s8KVpBugoVuV2HQtmP0i01fV6297mKwpXNXaYh5lr/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20170%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 170" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="220" alt="Winter 2011 170" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgePWYb2dgmf1lscdztxHbVY7ruW-CWNB93jmyWu02eMGe1W3Sw1RHlpr6IW8__xz7Ke3i9E816KTtrgqTRUW_PzknGFCbrSs9D9Ej9Alh_XsCjiQW3FuXiQsBYF4RQDXeGlg39vXBcrUgR/?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">Water Taxi Dock (no land access to town)</td> <td valign="top" width="300">Marina Grounds with Anchorage in Background</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b><u></u></b></p> <p><b><u>Thursday, 1/20/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 7am to bright sun, 80’s temps, for coffee and conversation. We spent the day doing boat tasks to get ready for our passage to Mexico. Projects included:</p> <ol> <li>1. Removed and disposed of the roll up dinghy. It had delaminated. Had appropriate funeral. </li> <li>2. Removed and gave suffering 4 hp Johnson outboard motor to local dock guy Tyrone. </li> <li>It never ran correctly after many fixes. Good luck Tyrone! </li> <li>3. Installed lee cloths and wall anchors for them inside </li> <li>4. Installed 2 Nicro Day and Night vent fans in main saloon hatches for air circulation </li> <li>5. Reinstalled all bimini canvas and brackets </li> <li>6. Jim and Tyrone filled our 8-5 gallon diesel jugs with two shore trips by dinghy. Bill and Jim decanted about 27 gallons into the main tanks and he and Tyrone refilled those we emptied so we had the full 8. </li> <li>7. Filled all water tanks </li> <li>8. Paul and Jim started to install cockpit tether anchors on the wheel binnacles. More later. </li> <li>9. Harry sanitized the galley and prepared it for loading provisions later </li> <li>10. Jay, a local boat guy installed our new power inverter control panel </li> </ol> <p>Around 5:00pm, Harry returned to the boat from a tour of the ecological research center near Bocas run by the Smithsonian Institute. He brought with him some provisions for the trip. We all took a break for cocktails and another nice dinner at the Calypso. The night’s special was Spicy Curry. Dillon treated us well and made us feel welcome. Harry left on the water taxi at 9pm for his last night in his shoreside inn, and we all turned in at 9:30pm.</p> <p><b><u>Friday, 1/21/11:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 7am for tasks. Paul and Jim labored diligently in limited inside access space to install two new tether anchor rings on the two binnacles below the steering wheels. This will provide easy attachment and more freedom of movement in the cockpit when tethered in. I inspected running and standing rigging. Save for replacing two worn out circlips and a couple of loose non safety related bolts everything was ship shape.</p> <p>In the afternoon, we all went across the bay by water taxi to downtown Bocas. En route, we passed the area’s power plant. Looked like a WWII deal in a tin building with 4 stacks venting the diesel generators inside. We had lunch at the open air Reef Bar and Grill that doubled as the water taxi dock. All the walls and the bar were bamboo. The crew did a city walk while Paul was doing customs work in town. When Paul returned we walked to the airport terminal 6 blocks away to get our immigration papers and passports stamped. We learned that we couldn’t clear until we walked back to the local bank, paid $15 per person, got a payment stamp and returned tomorrow for our final passport stamps. Very much like the Mexican clearance process.</p> <p>We got to see more of this vacation town filled with dive and scuba shops, the main business for this area with its many European and Canadian tourists. As with all trips to and from town, Harry did some provision shopping and we returned to Virago. After showers we had another dinner at the Calypso. Tonight’s special was Mahi Mahi and ribs. To make this final Bocas dinner special, they had a small local band playing in the bar. Tunes from Eagles, Train, Stones and even James Brown. Back to the boat at 9:30pm for rest.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDZJSI0Yu-DU4df7mGj_smUc0hP18jIjBS1hGPv6iin4wwTT0Y4Mkmavk1iaFW8KpPBuIUT5_QxwV69fToNK5HKYXntxpO6j8OPvxbZVrCYRX1Yynm68ghFtA9E4JHaXexe8i2H9w1LjH5/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20165%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 165" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="218" alt="Winter 2011 165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZJtVK_zB2NUnZqmASscH-en3fNoQ2itclMPr7zZuUYlPoc7-qMXYtqomFWEZ7Km0jjcraCzuKPsVHP-On7w48_olaaPBqm07-NGEXSICO6tpfxuK2e2yLBk5egETiXkl_jkF_CwEUzH1C/?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4c3MYLxI/AAAAAAAABC8/86Y-a2IdB_g/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20280%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 280" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="220" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 280" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4dEYhPOI/AAAAAAAABDA/JaFOHCuau_M/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20280_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b><u>Saturday 1/22/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 7am for coffee and final preparations. At 8:30am, Jay and his wife Danika came and put the finishing touches on the bimini cover. No more rain drops draining into the cockpit!! We water taxied to town for final shopping and more touring the streets. We went to the bank for our payment stamps, then the airport again for our final passport exit stamps. We are cleared to leave. We returned to the boat, repositioned it at the docks, pulled out all the spare anchor chain and marked it with color coded wire ties.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4dsRN1YI/AAAAAAAABDE/xT_D3tVunLk/s1600-h/Jan%202011%20Route%20002%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Jan 2011 Route 002" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="214" alt="Jan 2011 Route 002" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4d9lbRSI/AAAAAAAABDI/i-9M608e1Es/Jan%202011%20Route%20002_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-qN-2tR93-zAx8NDrFZTmIL0LZsjaFeEP-1IkqbZyuVBBtjWKBkMe_djxrKGRLAt7C_o-KrCtWfHd9VLLXpdYsL0ffXRAKit1iPj4Ub3lG1KfwTWU8wD16tdEq2RDRwrvonlYzPLvlGFE/s1600-h/Jan%202011%20Route%20001%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Jan 2011 Route 001" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="212" alt="Jan 2011 Route 001" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4erDbmvI/AAAAAAAABDQ/9tS55yaLMj4/Jan%202011%20Route%20001_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">iPad is Now Nav System #3 – Waypoint List</td> <td valign="top" width="300">Chart View</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p> </p> <p>We left the docks at 5:15pm and cleared the Bocas channel into the open Western Caribbean Ocean at 6:00pm. We had to follow the chartplotter very carefully, as the actual channel markers were missing. At 8pm we had a large mixed Feta cheese salad and pasta by Harry and started our watch schedule. The conditions were too light for sailing so we motored into the night, with ¾ moon, stars and temperatures in the 80’s. One cruise ship en route south passed us. The only shift excitement.</p> <p><b><u>Sunday 1/23/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>8am, off the coast of Costa Rica in brilliant sunshine, 80’s, and light breeze on our nose. No sailing yet. Harry prepared fruit and juice for breakfast and we witnessed our one and only sea life sighting with 20 Dolphins putting on a little show for us. So we can make San Andres Island, Columbia entrance in daylight we slowed the boat motor down. Had a relaxed day at sea with dinner at 6pm of chicken and sausage gumbo and a cashew salad. At 8pm, we experienced a wind shift from north on our nose to easterly and the velocity increased to 9-16k. Finally, all sails up and off we went in 5’ seas. Felt good to sail and shut off the motor. Good sailing through the night and morning shifts.</p> <p><b><u>Monday 1/24/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>As predicted, we arrived too early at the San Andres Island harbor entry spot so we did some loops to kill time. A Columbian Navy inflatable came by but only observed us. No guidance into port or conversation. Probably looking to see if we were a drug boat. They sped off after 15-20 minutes. We entered the harbor over a serious reef and set anchor at 9am in a protected bay on the north end of the island. The anchorage was in front of Nene’s Marina where we ultimately plan to berth. Paul hailed Rene of the Serrano Ships Agency for one stop customs/immigration check in service. Rene arranged a panga into shore for Paul and Jim to do the paperwork and check things out. Harry and I, sensing that we were dragging anchor, repositioned and re-anchored the boat. Success. From the boat, this island looks well developed with at least 5-7 high rise hotels and office buildings to our north and a large less fancy business district in the middle of the bay area. Nene’s Marina looked very small and difficult to med moor in but we will try to do so tomorrow morning. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="598"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4fVV8g6I/AAAAAAAABDU/Xy063NH8XUo/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20165%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 165" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="445" alt="Winter 2011 C 165" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4f_r_T7I/AAAAAAAABDY/Z35Qg-3uSuU/Winter%202011%20C%20165_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="591" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="598">Nene’s Marina</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4gaXqa_I/AAAAAAAABDc/4SS_FJIYflc/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20326%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 326" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="169" alt="Winter 2011 C 326" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4g5hJOdI/AAAAAAAABDg/ThSs5cLXBFA/Winter%202011%20C%20326_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="297" border="0" /></a>Above: Rene was our agent who handled the official choreography of checking into a foreign country. Right:  Allvarro with his son.</td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4hUykSNI/AAAAAAAABDk/QWquPKhjIyk/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20179%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 179" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="214" alt="Winter 2011 C 179" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4h-uHknI/AAAAAAAABDo/co8SaW4p_hs/Winter%202011%20C%20179_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>Paul and Jim returned and reported that we all had to come ashore to get personal entrance stamps on our passports for $24@, and Paul paid the $70 zarpe for the boat. During this process, we met and Paul hired a panga guy named Alvarro for $20 per day so we would have transportation and help throughout our stay with fuel, marina mooring and such. Got to call home. Great contact.</p> <p>In the pm, we all panga’d to the marina dock and took our laundry in, walked the old town (non-tourist) areas. We observed literally several hundred small motorcycles on the main malecon road, the standard transportation mode for the locals. Young, old, whole families, even nursing mothers riding on these motor bikes. Cars were almost an inconvenience. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4iSKj4NI/AAAAAAAABDs/jpyyGkwpwiQ/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20190%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 190" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Winter 2011 C 190" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4i6pdMhI/AAAAAAAABDw/3G85o5GgnKU/Winter%202011%20C%20190_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="286" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_VxwKMRug1bGlcdqmiMGlFEYe2CH8T5tloK-QcLdojZGCV2vb6GutfbsZqxcFDTdMstFWnovCIWtMpGLpVR5M0q_RtVUKJwcgV-wlXqpcxAbwbd34zXLsdNs68N6y4l2qrMwNAh-WwPAv/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20175%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 175" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="216" alt="Winter 2011 C 175" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4jghB9uI/AAAAAAAABD4/WMWvwxZabTc/Winter%202011%20C%20175_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="286" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>The business district was lined with small family businesses with all types of products available, like hardware, internet cafes, bakeries, appliances, phone shops. After our walk we returned to Nene’s Marina and had a beer with fellow cruisers. Barry from Santa Cruz CA on a Catalina 42, and Troy from Colorado on a Lagoon 36 Cat were very friendly and informative about local services. They had been buddy boating south toward the canal in no hurry for 3 years. Barry was alone, but Troy had his wife and 3 young daughters (13,9,and 7) aboard. Fun to meet them and hear about home schooling and incredible experiences the little girls were getting. Late afternoon, Alvarro took us back out to Virago for sunset cocktails and a robust hamburger dinner with all the trimmings by Harry. Deep sleep by 9:45pm.</p> <p><b><u>Tuesday 1/25/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 8am for coffee and pastry and to move Virago from the anchorage to the “berth” at Nene’s. With help from trusty Alvarro and his panga, Barry and Troy we backed into the marina and med tied in a very confined area. Good effort by all concerned. See pictures. To say that Nene’s was a dump would be charitable, but the staff was friendly and it gave us access to fresh water, ac power, fuel, town shopping and a single trough rainwater shower. What fun. Not the Ritz, but essentially the only place in this particular bay that would accommodate our keel depth.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4kJhgJuI/AAAAAAAABD8/skutOTZMdaE/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20329%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 329" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="165" alt="Winter 2011 C 329" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4khQ7aXI/AAAAAAAABEA/rwW5Y6Hbxrg/Winter%202011%20C%20329_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="291" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4lSJQlvI/AAAAAAAABEE/tWNFvfjPLhI/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20325%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 325" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="164" alt="Winter 2011 C 325" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8mrymP9mx-ZFrgHud8V5hTkhLFHjVZiAONoPtD4RoUCYsgj4Zpc-UPjl-u2wzfZ-gjh-dgf6EzVx0Gh9zu3wFcgzbDZEwVzg25Nr4URm8iHFh1GPExv7UiRTy-Rfo5sDgmSVRJcGoSvl8/?imgmax=800" width="288" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>Mid day we did little projects in the 90 degree temps and sunshine. Nice breeze over the area made it comfortable to work. Some projects included:</p> <ol> <li>New burgee halyard </li> <li>New radar reflector halyard </li> <li>Replacement steaming light and upper rig inspection by Paul in bosun’s chair. </li> <li>Complete wash down of sailing dinghy Toyot </li> <li>Removed and disposed of old rusty tie down binders for Toyot. Good riddance. </li> <li>Fueled 30 gallons with Alvarro’s help. Refilled the fuel jugs and lashed them down. </li> </ol> <p>Late afternoon, Jim, Alvarro and his son Alvarro, Jr. went snorkeling at a small islet called the Aquarium. Jim reported that the area was full of tourist boats. The fish sightings were not that great and the current was raging across the reef system. The current even tried to tear Jim’s sandals off. When Jim returned, we all had a beer with Alvarro; picked up our laundry ($7); took cold showers and had sundowners followed by dinner at a very non-tourist street café called El Parqueradoro. Meat, rice, salad and beer for $5 each. While eating there was a constant stream of motorcycles going by. Fortunately the town has mostly one way streets so the chaos was non life threatening. Back to Virago at 10pm for sleep.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4mNUVPPI/AAAAAAAABEM/X0KdSIAmOMo/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20191%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 191" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="440" alt="Winter 2011 C 191" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCHhg3oE_xE7oogtxUCZN-LuUmPWEdYV1j109U0FTef_yUQWgmMAI-70YxT2Gv3wfSwy0unx5HIqJlxTHl7OB1HxeilwHzPDZQcMGM9SRyj4hAv_CYSQxSU7ZVVKR1WQKUngST5BXU-wZL/?imgmax=800" width="585" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="600">In the Captain’s Humble Opinion: The best local food and best bargain food on the whole trip.</td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b><u>Wednesday 1/26/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 8:30am for coffee and projects before departure to Roatan. We reinstalled the sheared instrument pod grab bar that had broken en route to San Andres. Harry had found a good machine shop in town to reweld the anchor screw on one side of the loop. Good stainless welding for $14. Harry also did some final provisioning at the local supermarket. At 10am, the immigration lady “Daisey” came with our agent Rene and we all got our checkout papers completed. She was very attractive and dressed like she was going to her high school prom.</p> <p>Paul and I took a long city walk around the tourist end of town. See pictures. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4neG3_bI/AAAAAAAABEU/8l3ENccHqqA/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20051%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 051" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Winter 2011 D 051" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4ntv_Q6I/AAAAAAAABEY/kzojVDKRCIQ/Winter%202011%20D%20051_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4oIxty9I/AAAAAAAABEc/8LK7JAWtbGw/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20050%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 050" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Winter 2011 D 050" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4oRqoIhI/AAAAAAAABEg/zc0bwOnBxaU/Winter%202011%20D%20050_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>Very nice hotels and restaurants, modern designer shops, beautiful white beaches and clean streets. We saw Club Nautico de San Andres. Beautiful grounds with a pool, and shallow water docks for their motor boats. Too shallow for us. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4ozTcoUI/AAAAAAAABEk/eaxl6Q2_teQ/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20044%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 044" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="218" alt="Winter 2011 D 044" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhd32y5yjnnlEsQLf1JqNGXSSX3pHOwjukKmPMJuEYbGaBdGrR0FktBYnn4z8pCYTFDCRUc2OsZkqJRIhW15h5WU_87khXFIaIDSr9F7XdiJaUNoWRUS0tvUHnbAkiiSldKneDOPvLv-mfc/?imgmax=800" width="290" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4p3Lf8hI/AAAAAAAABEs/eyxlz1yh6BU/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20046%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 046" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="216" alt="Winter 2011 D 046" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4qQ7WBmI/AAAAAAAABEw/UuyPh0jKRfI/Winter%202011%20D%20046_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="286" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>Along the way, we met 1 of only 2 American born permanent residents of the island. He was so happy to talk to other English speakers that he toured us around and shared info. He shared that there are only 2 ways Americans can permanently reside in San Andres. 1. Marry a native islander which he did or 2. make a $200,000 or more government approved investment as in “payola”.</p> <p>After our tour and final prep and shopping, we departed Nene’s Marina and Columbia at 4:30pm for Roatan Honduras. Dock departure was tricky around obstructions and shallow areas. We traversed the narrow harbor barrier reef and into the open ocean by 5:30pm. We passed a grounded freighter (been there 2 years) that apparently missed the reef opening. </p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4qnWb8xI/AAAAAAAABE0/eIR5Ejzn06Q/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20330%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 330" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="336" alt="Winter 2011 C 330" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4rH6lD2I/AAAAAAAABE4/Uix45OYjn2Q/Winter%202011%20C%20330_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="595" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>Not a pretty picture. We also passed a picturesque little island off the main beach called Johnny Cay on our port side as we headed north. Looks like a postcard picture. By 6:00pm we were under full sail for the night in 13-21k easterly breeze, 4-10 ft. swells, boat speed of 6.8-8.5k, 85-93 degree temps, a half moon and lots of stars. How do you beat that? We reefed the main by ¼ early on and the rig seemed perfectly balanced, with 0-1 degree of rudder angle. It was a little tough to sleep between watches due to the boat roll on the swells and the interior cabin heat We had dinner of hot chile, sweet San Andreas rolls and pineapple upside down cake, all made from scratch by Harry while he was bouncing around in the galley in the heat. Our hero! Around 1am we got a couple of rain squalls but missed most of them. Good night on watch.</p> <p><b><u>Thursday 1/27/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>At 8am watch change we had bright sun, 90+ degrees and same sea state. We had covered 100 nautical miles overnight. At 11am we were 72 miles off the northern coast of Nicaragua in the Edinberry Channel. We will be in Honduran waters in 4 hours. We sailed all day in the 12-18k trades heading north around the NE tip of Honduras for the Gorda Banks. At 6pm we turned 35 degrees west for various vectors to Roatan Island. Perfect westerly sailing at 8-9k in 12-23k breeze. Dinner at 8pm of beef soup, green salad with parmesan cheese and egg with the works. Very tasty. Sailed all night. No traffic or sealife.</p> <p><b><u>Friday 1/28/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Sunrise at 6am found us along the Honduran coast between Gorda Bank and Punta Patucca, 131 miles out of Roatan Island in 18k NE breeze. Harry prepared sausage and eggs and his special fried corn meal mush sticks and juice. At 9:30am we looked at our fine boat speed of 7.2-9.2k in 23k breeze and determined like so many previous trip legs that we would arrive Roatan too early (3am tomorrow) Thus, reluctantly we reduced sail and speed to 5.5-6.0k for the balance of the trip. Beans and weenies at 6pm (captain’s note: we didn’t run out of propane) and we kept on trucking along. Breeze picked up to 25+k but the reef handled it with ease. Sunrise arrival expected.</p> <p><b><u>Saturday 1/29/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Great sailing overnight with a “Cheshire cat moon” as Jim called it. By 8am, we passed the coastline of Roatan’s sister island Guanapa Island and could see the south and east end of Roatan. As we traversed this long and narrow island (23miles by2 miles), we had pancakes and fruit and enjoyed the views. Nice to see land after 3 days and nights at sea. At 10am, we called the Barefoot Cay Marina announcing our arrival off their reef ridden harbor entrance. They sent a guide motor boat called “Chalupa” out to guide us through the 40’ reef opening. We came across into the calm bay/harbor where dock hands helped us secure at 10:22am. We connected power and checked into the marina/resort. We spent the afternoon sleeping, lunching, swimming in the beautiful Barefoot Cay pool and exploring the little resort island. (See pictures and brochures) This place is truly 5 Star. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">   The Pool at Night       <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4riJP4ZI/AAAAAAAABE8/_FDXewCBbDI/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20065%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 065" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="204" alt="Winter 2011 D 065" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4rjIjuFI/AAAAAAAABFA/8AtGBoYqKm8/Winter%202011%20D%20065_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="271" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4sXxqkVI/AAAAAAAABFE/H8KVzsHuUyc/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20240%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 240" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Winter 2011 240" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4ssIs9ZI/AAAAAAAABFI/g_ELRDpYaoI/Winter%202011%20240_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4tJCLc5I/AAAAAAAABJk/57LhD_CRrZ4/s1600-h/Winter2011C3402.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300">The Pool in the Day<a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4ti4gOFI/AAAAAAAABFQ/T7YpQFqfp3Q/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20341%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 341" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="169" alt="Winter 2011 C 341" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4t06E4oI/AAAAAAAABFU/liw78qnFVg8/Winter%202011%20C%20341_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="298" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4uu4CvTI/AAAAAAAABFY/KjbCEuT4Z-8/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20231%5B9%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 231" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: block; border-left-width: 0px; float: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; border-right-width: 0px" height="205" alt="Winter 2011 231" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4u59N62I/AAAAAAAABFc/hSn6ikMSUAo/Winter%202011%20231_thumb%5B7%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4sXxqkVI/AAAAAAAABFE/H8KVzsHuUyc/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20240%5B3%5D.jpg"></a></td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNUGaIoKGxrEVHPdSlelJ90S3SorqyKUpAFy7dTn6fCj8FslI4XU99Af7hQiK11VUkOSBtyNyYI7AKZb6mSERRW-TGicyUB52nafg6f-syD9Ogu1ubM6MTvhCUTCrlkRYJ8QDdmKQig6_0/s1600-h/Winter2011C3403.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 340" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="172" alt="Winter 2011 C 340" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4vgT1XdI/AAAAAAAABFk/7D0HoJp_Ubw/Winter%202011%20C%20340_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="302" border="0" /></a></td> <td valign="top" width="300">The Ferry to the Mainland (about 200 Feet)<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4wPiIuwI/AAAAAAAABFo/ELl9JEtBl7E/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20347%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 347" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="163" alt="Winter 2011 C 347" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4wd24qzI/AAAAAAAABFs/5Ayd-XX0Zg0/Winter%202011%20C%20347_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="286" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>We took our laundry in and it was delivered back to the boat in no time. Harry precooked some meat before it spoiled and did a major clean up of the refer boxes after our days at sea. The rest of us cleaned around the boat, organized our stuff and took showers in the modern and fully equipped shower rooms by the pool. All the help spoke English and took pride in the fact that their little island in the middle of French Harbor was once a dump site before a Canadian couple developed it into this little paradise. The water around the island was warm and crystal clear for diving and snorkeling. There are at least 120 dive spots around both sides of the island and it is a main source of revenue for the tourist island. The sand is pure white and soft. You’ve got to see this place to believe it. See <a href="http://www.barefootcay.com/">www.BarefootCay.com</a> for a treat. Quite a stark contrast to Nene’s Marina in San Andrews.</p> <p>At 5pm we took a 24/7 water launch across the 200’ channel separating the little resort island and their hotel area on the big island, walked up to the main highway for a cab ride into town for dinner. Jim served as our interpreter as the cabbies did not speak English. We went to the Miracle Mall where a local boater recommended a restaurant called Big Hamburger/Steak House. It was very Spartan with plastic chairs but good local dishes. We had a 4 person platter of beef, chicken, pork, beans, plantains, rice and various hot sauces. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyulQ3m-5DR7EOTgRVY_qroOjxkJECs64csOnhimI10-qhIrHcSLq4QmDQcO3-SXDDYKxvwNr-3edYIhb95dFc__LtIfdgeYBuZf-YZYxWRA_kVId4wFn5D7Vby2kUDomCUPWc9e0FtNyq/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20056%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 056" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="212" alt="Winter 2011 D 056" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4xPKsdkI/AAAAAAAABF0/62MS79jURVQ/Winter%202011%20D%20056_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQP4LWtull_Ti4vGkkYZIV2oVElaWqiNpegkttyq2fw6nfD8t3HNcetRrU2E4VBctpcGQs_3crd86JtpEVJelqz9bkSb3iZgyqww5L3gFkvksor71YV76cFK7eE0wT1gbN6_ebIssRTx3Q/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20059%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 059" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="216" alt="Winter 2011 D 059" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4x2AEelI/AAAAAAAABF8/Cz7FAh-K59w/Winter%202011%20D%20059_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="286" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>The manager/owner personally helped us. After dinner, we walked the small but very modern mall, had an ice cream cone and walked across the highway to see a soccer game under the lights. The games were played on a ½ sized soccer field, fully netted and on Astroturf. The teams were mid to late 20’s ages and the speed of play and high scoring made it very exciting to watch. After the game, the competitors loudly and cheerfully argued about out of bounds calls waving their arms and drinking beer on the sideline. Almost better than watching the game. </p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijrbh0i9BIWczewwB3Ifzpl2pcSOnmSgqyfDfLeSDXhwULD2jvChrfCy4E_WmAPd54U3dzN6hv1eSe7X5LXaF5mCzmMXHdms6SSHtTh7xOzqz1PYMr_Aax08VHK2RPjWpnJVgr5GLjD89r/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20060%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 060" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="211" alt="Winter 2011 D 060" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4y_bte1I/AAAAAAAABGE/POa_ALSpRKg/Winter%202011%20D%20060_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOU_dIdnKuLBG6XvhVbxhci8TpS7Kis7-b1Nxj-KJRzZbYN8cc_mvTQQ_JNTAPGjLAL0RQEnASCSuECq5rx_EJcO-34dLoGzzcAf9IN7d0yoW9oYkHJsjct51pCkJP3QFHkMec_-u2ccIs/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20062%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 062" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="210" alt="Winter 2011 D 062" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAYS3CkDvO1u1iigULl29DafuHcrNKVdzSZDgUftZj1U6JT6dc0tFFTkhfJBfYT3eBuKAqXaPNNlghD37RNiML3AzbxceiMMV3IxnbqrDI01g22q2RZ0Ab5IMC18V_Ji4XPbhCNnRQ1bmP/?imgmax=800" width="278" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>The park developer told us that he was planning 2 beach volleyball courts for his already busy recreation area. While we were in town we saw fireworks from a big resort offshore called Fantasy Island. We returned back to the boat by 10pm for a nightcap and bed.</p> <p><b><u>Sunday 1/30/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 8am for breakfast of corned beef hash and eggs then some more touring and provisioning in French Harbor. We hailed a cab with David the driver who was willing to drive us around and wait for us while we shopped. Jim again interpreted for us. We drove by the Roatan Yacht Club that was closed and no where near the water. Then into a beater neighborhood where the real people live. Very poor situation and the pets looked in bad shape as well. What a contrast between the beachfront and island resorts and these housing areas. En route back to the boat, we shopped at Eldon’s supermarket. Modern and clean but could not help but notice the armed guard out front with his rifle. See pics. We stopped again for bottled water then home. We fueled the boat with only 5 gallons of fuel used after over 400 miles of sea travel from San Andres.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP40XTDxYI/AAAAAAAABGQ/jJbRw46mKEw/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20234%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 234" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="220" alt="Winter 2011 234" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP40lStgzI/AAAAAAAABGU/DQhJJ8X7mrI/Winter%202011%20234_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="292" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP41PLgSRI/AAAAAAAABGY/siBLZWAK4Iw/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20340%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 340" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="220" alt="Winter 2011 340" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP41h6ur6I/AAAAAAAABGc/TBDshlcoWxU/Winter%202011%20340_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="293" border="0" /></a> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>We had cocktails aboard then cabbed to dinner at a hilltop restaurant called El Executivo Restaurante and Inn. Had a nice meal with friendly service. Little English spoken. Back to the boat by 10pm for rest.</p> <p><b><u>Monday 1/31/11</u></b><b><u>:</u></b></p> <p>Up at 8am. Harry and I went off the a local hardware store with driver David to get some plastic nuts and bolts to affix our forward toilet seat back on the toilet. Very complete store across the street from the Roatan Governors mansion. Looked like the White House in DC on beautifully manicured grounds. We then went back to the Miracle Mall and its “Hiper Mega” supermarket. Prices higher than Eldons, but it was the cleanest and most modern market I have ever seen.</p> <p>Items of interest at Barefoot Cay Resort:</p> <p>1. We met one legged Captain Ed , Dr. Dan and their nursing crew aboard a large sailboat/floating clinic. Their group was called Sailing Doctors and they were preparing for a mercy medical mission to Haiti. There are apparently a lot of doctors with this group, mostly from the US and Canada. They have a website as well.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP41wAPspI/AAAAAAAABGg/K8io5NfiXEg/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20C%20350%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 C 350" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="168" alt="Winter 2011 C 350" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCOmVxFw3Q6eBLmXlCZezMTx0xbYL501M0H0fbMs_AjJMaRpo7XBVWLFq_c0Bc1PaRMMFAhrSxyQP8etu7KihbCyQ4Mhax14zIbN89vngIrk_I8KNAiXJyVgYAbFB7OcZqDUFMEYweFpx7/?imgmax=800" width="296" border="0" /></a> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVAJRLF05ZAcOZOp4Po42SQAV8uaasuALvTzBGH1pW740-PSRXP6ivuESbaJA8lLTgAXXxP7Rb_yG2-LmZyiTYWmZcJDz9i1ZU3tQk7PTouvKbSDoitkIHEUq7GmbnaNtdsJZ60gVe7C7z/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20227%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 227" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="206" alt="Winter 2011 227" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP43GS-QXI/AAAAAAAABGs/3vYnNU7Zy7s/Winter%202011%20227_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="274" border="0" /></a></td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p>2. We met “Champagne Cher” of the 120’ deluxe motor yacht of the same name. See pics. They were berthed just in front of us at the Cay. She was very friendly and shared a tin of her birthday cake with us upon departure. Her yacht was crewed by a professional Captain and two crew. The yacht was very modern but a little gaudy. They are oil people from Houston Texas wandering the world.</p> <p>By 1pm, we had showered and relaxed before our departure at 2pm for Belize. We motored out through the narrow Brick Cay reef and under full sail by 2:30pm in bright sunshine. We sailed westerly around what they call “The West End” of the island. We observed many beautiful and large resorts, and several small towns that were obviously tourist spots. The main town Coxen’s Hole even had a cruise ship terminal. Once clear of the island, we set course for Belize in 17-22k ESE breeze, in 4-5’ swells on the starboard quarter and 80 degree temps. Had BBQ steak, Cos Cos, salad and Cher’s birthday cake for dinner. We rock and rolled all night due to the quartering sea state, but it was good sailing, no moon but lots of brilliant stars. We sailed 100% of the way to the Belize entrance channel in up to 25k breeze and boat speeds of 8.5k for the 137 mile crossing to the mainland.</p> <table cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" width="600" border="0"><tbody> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTfgjkWEbUV_z9TFq7kW-rPaOiYhpI5uuq9qdSrdX_EpvsKt2LGSDb_FnaBDi42XumaoFiyOnlgnIAmNTjc8H-tOta20qwb7W1DKbNwHADcUm-L0VsHzhyphenhyphen5dJh1PJu4TPvmdUkkdYSWcKC/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20055%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 055" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="370" alt="Winter 2011 D 055" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP4371i-oI/AAAAAAAABG0/yAzdY0e21Qg/Winter%202011%20D%20055_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="278" border="0" /></a>  </td> <td valign="top" width="300">Captain’s Note": Bill too modest to brag about the fish he caught. Believe it was as hard to see in real life as it is in this picture. It probably measured three inches. (I later caught the biggest fish of the trip—it was four inches long. <br /> <br /><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP44gySn_I/AAAAAAAABG4/hhVMOqW4joU/s1600-h/Winter%202011%20D%20069%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Winter 2011 D 069" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="221" alt="Winter 2011 D 069" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYP440kRInI/AAAAAAAABG8/LwmAJ9nc6l0/Winter%202011%20D%20069_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="293" border="0" /></a> <br />These turtles are only ones saw on the entire trip!</td> </tr> <tr> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> <td valign="top" width="300"> </td> </tr> </tbody></table> <p><b><u>To Be Continued</u></b></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-23042355177584819102011-03-16T10:28:00.001-07:002011-03-16T10:28:19.854-07:00Bocas del Toro Panama: Funky Town<p>As with many writing exercises I didn’t quite know how to sum up our stay in Bocas when I began. Since a picture is worth a thousand words, here is the best summary I can imagine. We loved it.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDyxQKONHI/AAAAAAAAA98/snNDZ7VIazE/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20357%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 357" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="399" alt="Virago Rescue 357" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDyxxLEgpI/AAAAAAAAA-A/BYCOOgS1ryE/Virago%20Rescue%20357_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="532" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>We arrived safely in Boca del Toro at the Boca del Toro Yacht Club and Marina without any remarkable incidents. Our only glitch was some occasional hiccups from or Raymarine Chartplotter. Just to show how seriously I took it, here is a picture of me reading the directions! Just as I thought! Port is left and starboard is right.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpL4JN1znVmdWcmcbCUDszcPnbQXx5UtWYYTGpKbEz5gNPJWJXAaCQ1wha2v1nrn-ql0ANxzDNnibIk1cSG_Jue6Ls9m_lY9oZtZ0yQ1n6I-3TfEAGYDTcJQfZDWq6EMAxRShsuKBZGv6w/s1600-h/ViragoRescue3244.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 324" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="397" alt="Virago Rescue 324" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDyzJLdcbI/AAAAAAAAA-I/q9yo-Dq9lC4/ViragoRescue324_thumb2.jpg?imgmax=800" width="529" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>Here is (or is it ‘are’) the crew:</p> <p> (L to R: Harry Reppert, Marj Goss, Paul Goss, and John Eichinger).</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPUmib5VjvxrAEsh9ct68mV9doG5Nb-8txcr3FyBgvURULgvh7kTfdtMkYuxO7wiCnO1aUQj_3Jfx9LXFoXB-hjzudK19QwbPqQX9Hze1IwKOch_ah1kb3ycqpqxaWR34tX98tF7y0A7sF/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20360%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 360" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="403" alt="Virago Rescue 360" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy0mQUWKI/AAAAAAAAA-Q/q-sYkrUi8OY/Virago%20Rescue%20360_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="536" border="0" /></a> </p> <h4></h4> <h3>Hardware Stores</h3> <p>Without any real stories to tell, I’ll show you a few photo galleries. We have all heard that cruising is “repairing your boat in exotic locations.” Usually that involves finding the local hardware stores. It’s probably a good thing that I enjoy this Easter Egg Hunt. I found four in Bocas. They are all local meaning there were no Ace Hardware or True Value stores amongs the lot.  In fact the only US chain that even showed a sign was Home Depot—it had a logo on a local buying club, but no actual physical presence (or nexus as accounts like to say). They were far better stocked than the ones in La Cruz, Mexico, but not very useful for marine hardware. There were a couple of small marine stores mostly oriented toward outboards.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy1DeQ3rI/AAAAAAAAA-U/ZaXtMkgomyU/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20254.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 254" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="211" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 254" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy1VzdinI/AAAAAAAAA-Y/ZySgpLd6DlI/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20254_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy15zLCNI/AAAAAAAAA-c/kgfRJuTJNcY/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20257%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 257" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="211" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 257" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmtOgWQe4C6_iT_Px4MwejPw6f02r-XGhVqr7dudvgkJvqY-pLCi7IhKDhYQnGK4x7sUrh1WiT6MrHzpmBY_GSA2phTd_FWuGrddOFz5rr9vrsqvDwRBcPSonhtEItKUVRIqrPONPu1Lsq/?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy2jnbYQI/AAAAAAAAA-k/uRhtziFVTLo/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20223.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 223" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 223" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy27pszvI/AAAAAAAAA-o/FbKDEJxZjjw/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20223_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy3d4oLQI/AAAAAAAAA-s/7_13dG_tRZo/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20227.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 227" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="210" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOCf_pu0J70P0jpg1-6tW3f7tSTZjp1DqyJW6BueBbKaXVLRSAHJmOw0IlaiYV_svWlXHy6nUYz1PTPPXLyMizo85tFYiFtu4LcnHAsX4Hn_atKkd5sdHy1IoRmGGuVM4CnwQgTaAaF-GG/?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a></p> <h3>Restaurants</h3> <p>Bocas is a tourist town. Unlike cruise ship ports where the tourists tend to be gray haired, Bocas caters to eco tourists especially surfers, kayakers, and divers. Restaurants are very casual as befits a party crowd.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy4KgyJDI/AAAAAAAAA-0/G28Yic1TE14/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20219%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 219" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="213" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 219" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy4sVsLwI/AAAAAAAAA-4/S2OmB76-Pno/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20219_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy4zUu39I/AAAAAAAAA-8/R17mJw7W9zE/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20359%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 359" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="213" alt="Virago Rescue 359" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5NQ8MEfp-F7Ue4KfBjg-o3AxGKiuyaXjOIFeHKOJhcF-Eth74LmHSl_ISNdu-9vHsdVWYN5Z6zrOLIdLnP81xEJo8JLBH2T1VAz8CSOc-I8NyH69Nq3Jev2U88jSckawDwgDqS3wi6Dzw/?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy5xksVGI/AAAAAAAAA_E/pj8h1izYRH0/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20363%5B2%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 363" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="184" alt="Virago Rescue 363" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy6F0yskI/AAAAAAAAA_I/SjH6DynKKm0/Virago%20Rescue%20363_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbIqIEtNoScTYWpZtUN6MF_4QiT_hynKy8LpgxswEz4-7EnBnLdyw_mVg68iSPj801ug4GUUd3txim1K2oQQAJs464nBkz0Tke9NtPWwhQBmoSYzD7w2gNcYyAHGO-psy38IF0Q9dswk_/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20408%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 408" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="182" alt="Virago Rescue 408" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy7DwylcI/AAAAAAAAA_Q/q4_5Non_Aqo/Virago%20Rescue%20408_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="321" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>I must say that by far the best meal of the trip was had at 9 Degree Restaurant so named because Bocas is at latitude 9 North. I had the seared Ahi and Marj had the grilled Salmon.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZ4sAoYnHISdC6rFWZAXIJJv0SAljtznQ7M640_c6Lphf2rpEvfs7Y8lsO76GN1t4K6XTHkCr65Nz9XhqY5h6mc53mbbnlbz3yffkhC9CrTV-0c7LJTabFR2_5Md6LFhlP50H0Hn51oi8z/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20252%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 252" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="213" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 252" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy7xthE6I/AAAAAAAAA_Y/zs2lhGDHeSI/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20252_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy8p6jHVI/AAAAAAAAA_c/Z7xPJnHttXs/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20251%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 251" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 251" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy8wsMgcI/AAAAAAAAA_g/0rItC9qXVuM/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20251_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a> </p> <h3>Streets</h3> <p>The streets of Bocas left no doubt that we weren’t in Kansas anymore. In fact we weren’t even in the Pacific. This is the Caribbean with its more vibrant colors influenced more by its African heritage.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy9RjyGMI/AAAAAAAAA_k/vMuYXjJzaK8/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20352%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 352" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="204" alt="Virago Rescue 352" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsCU3UGTFZUSjGi_5p2IAKLX_oGHyoXeI77IgB3s5pF2SuzjgAq-6uTp4gIBPU2dodaDWebgSxaWCOyhwaV0eoQ5N2fl0yzEaovtjpmNhG2tzUK-ItA4W0GPIMxb-nfOo3CiYEWTUamy_P/?imgmax=800" width="271" border="0" /></a>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy-acHEsI/AAAAAAAAA_s/9tFotSEtRh8/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20367%5B8%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 367" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="211" alt="Virago Rescue 367" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3-hqhmfDKa4F8qONUIdqvKVw_ddxYMj3pHekrkDFgutkdPNsT2NLvjliK_VdQlGJuPw5Pfe5eSwaH0nmOFWhqQY4rgeKdhJFU_KsedhBPsm0MCyoTBSNpFOtOowgvhQ54MHqZwUQK01YL/?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy_TTt0_I/AAAAAAAAA_0/_7t9urYb2_o/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20362%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 362" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="207" alt="Virago Rescue 362" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDy_4yfoaI/AAAAAAAAA_4/DesX4fGmF78/Virago%20Rescue%20362_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="274" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzATlLnRI/AAAAAAAAA_8/s_muEtMvZJ8/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20366%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 366" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="213" alt="Virago Rescue 366" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEilXK_C-p5O2sENZ7dH9knOKz-4v2UWdDSh9F9uvFfoVqvfJSeVaoHIQ8Kg_HV4ZQCGQWmg49PrpU1kEhzMJfchrzp6uPgygUJnkGUS1xRRtx62zIOtz967heG-qxh7hkr5yNao504LIPcD/?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a>      <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzBQW032I/AAAAAAAABAE/muZaCyQEHAE/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20267%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 267" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="422" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 267" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzB--VpPI/AAAAAAAABAI/xXI8ns_iUsw/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20267_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="562" border="0" /></a> </p> <h3>The Park</h3> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzCg6SL0I/AAAAAAAABAM/b0iYnPVsosc/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20256%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 256" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="430" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 256" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzDPkiZmI/AAAAAAAABAQ/X_ggbuUVHzE/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20256_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="572" border="0" /></a> </p> <h3>Dugout Canoes</h3> <p>We saw all sizes of dugouts being handled by crews of all ages. The largest were over twenty feet long and the smallest merely eight feet. Most were paddled, but we did see a few being sailed. It looked like a neat trick in a boat with no chines and no amu!</p> <p>  <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzDttq9ZI/AAAAAAAABAU/B9f4g2rRLDQ/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20266%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 266" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="210" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 266" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzD9bWg-I/AAAAAAAABAY/7y-HxMpjOsw/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20266_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="279" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzEaMAaQI/AAAAAAAABAc/8pY6UjPEvos/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20244%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 244" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 244" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzE6sNtZI/AAAAAAAABAg/iE-ohOytEPM/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20244_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhelPDunnGHZBH2EIM-S0nv3tRgMym3dh6ZgXbnuLNyg1QA2EqDrTFWjrce6ek8EaR9KOG7f1BWSIudbHlx88B_1Kuj7si7zs7Qxsd0GoUGQODpRgYmAD_P6XFeTwJ5FJQNRTN8ZwHtgJlr/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20245%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 245" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="215" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 245" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzFbceAYI/AAAAAAAABAo/ydWYASJk0Pk/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20245_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzF4J0wfI/AAAAAAAABAs/a8jrLygw55E/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20249%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 249" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 249" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzGA70RjI/AAAAAAAABAw/QBaG7F2wNYo/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20249_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSz4lDMXCzFx_yjNN8rkUJWVpTq04oH1Y1dKqrkWZId5_QDxcoXicEnWkAlqzG0OZAUn4w6x1uZeWw0sL9LOv4CKu9FYGSdpG6GwwFrRyTHQhcoldBT_47wbNznhF8Z26xv1RLTAuZ3srh/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20269%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 269" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 269" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzHC46oXI/AAAAAAAABA4/1pz-D60_9Ww/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20269_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzHtxy21I/AAAAAAAABA8/iqhnl2ubQ_E/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20270%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 270" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 270" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjp8WhvD0c0VBDiq_k1_w9FSkrwWXloAkpy8fNSoMrrf6O1VYKq4QW2QhWAhCMMCpn7Mi5uP-FBC_OxK2JmbwkX1dBBNLicuSkBZfzP_vmzM_HhXlyAnnahNsrWfOVXE9Gk26bo6Jx4juH3/?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a></p> <h3>The Waterfront</h3> <p>Given that the water in Bocas is warm and the tide less than three feet the town embraces the ocean in way foreign this Mainiac.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiL1dZ6FAHVyvCa2Usk_6HOeNERwLtOHrJU2uta6CKd2aCzwlmH_zgBaQLIXtSYbF-0rr9f3ERPh2QUsNcL5aeSnQNXY7vZFJ5dgiEYRS6unNoIHG0pef-86lCWsSpf4ShArbka2m5KAgv/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20250%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 250" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="183" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyGLiEyDZTxVnp6tTPDWEX1iYOmM4-UBTS8bFdwjn1Lj5ERuRDVrvnXM_RVFtlCjP7Y1toG7blHfT3EY3vZiJSubOYTmhiSz1TlPeDk-GCQvaPK4SPHjC3Ca9GeENqBQy4fVOGgwtTonjD/?imgmax=800" width="243" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzJcK4dMI/AAAAAAAABBM/ZkmoN0_-0T4/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20407%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 407" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="178" alt="Virago Rescue 407" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqDfyYOzIQqiAp62oBH30l_f8uU-Rgt8QiUluylEW_8Uz3ZM77qy7W3g5MkthaWMtgOp83TtJu1gsaXnlCNwZA7YWD_YvKz8O7UMGtaGz_gNCKsr7tU3B54R0fbQ_Q3c9GBtKqRgByifMP/?imgmax=800" width="313" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzKbghGoI/AAAAAAAABBU/FhQykAUhAmo/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20205%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 205" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="212" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 205" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitTIn5Mvk2-Nb1QjcEWVgzJlxsZZwu9nXQMha6K-AIXps_lqk3X5O9MATPZRj_Ga57veDly2Eqpqgi0V0LymqNWvTT_deEZo8TrLQbASuXMI-xYUWknjTLNQ9DLpAVzeD-vd8IJYSLZZ9V/?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPUd-xh-btd2ZxCRj3Z7fEmsAKMwOLt2jb2Zp3uFvtIjEiLkyAbzyhO6TBpMZpcZkI7fIjICIoI116pRu4SiZuPmupQuvxes_Y5PxqHzZPca_zu1BMHU3e0O4uctrxawfCRPCqTB32VCuG/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20206%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 206" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="209" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 206" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzLj7aVBI/AAAAAAAABBg/8tec762xo8o/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20206_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="277" border="0" /></a> </p> <h3>Friends</h3> <p>Part of the reason that we chose Bocas del Toro Yacht Club and Marina was because it was recommended by our friend and former commodore Paul Cahill. Image our surprise when he met us at the dock with the dock master and grabbed our dock lines. As you will learn in later posts, we kept Virago at BYCM for almost four months and were most pleased with the facility and staff. Thanks Paul for the fine recommendation.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzMC7NWMI/AAAAAAAABBk/zxYFVhTqIlU/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20371%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 371" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="321" alt="Virago Rescue 371" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TYDzMmZGMuI/AAAAAAAABBo/NqjgzCeGBkU/Virago%20Rescue%20371_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="567" border="0" /></a></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-72074273619676383602011-03-15T17:28:00.001-07:002011-03-15T17:28:13.836-07:00We Have a Microwave—Who Knew?<p>Somewhere between Shelter Island and Bocas del Toro our cook Harry Reppert set out to make beans and franks for dinner. He saw no problem with the fact that the hot dogs were frozen solid--until the gas burner refused to light. A little research found the culprit: an empty propane tank. “No problem”, said the captain. “All we need to do is switch to the backup propane tank. We better idle the engine since we will need to get someone down on the swim step to disconnect tank one, retrieve tank two, swap them, and connect tank two.” We coasted to stop and John and Harry bent to the task.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioC_3xyxt5p5hQyCDVZPZZ4l-v1BvpG5neVKYeNGE8MJoiJlMrlKUjRl3_6GnRQvANkgy-CUgggiUIacnBtBI8lthYlSL2UdQ1Pkqe5rTZ3YiRY5irUTGTsNpcAEI-FEXhH4xwcL76oA7F/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20196%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 196" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="412" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 196" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8w8iTJfJu-fe5YJMlhKsjX39yTzuwY_vSCTN6VKgByV-2qPXIGxZbgjbZp39JcSmeeJ3noCeudQSB4Cn8veNM2_ISbe8q9oSG3X_L0SC5fIGbIR8gOVbFcvGv1dXAYxdBAqXVPlnm4kcJ/?imgmax=800" width="548" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>There was only one remaining problem—the second tank was empty, too. So how many Boy Scouts does it take to cook frozen hot dogs on a cruising yacht? (BTW: There are no ex-Boy Scouts. Once a scout, always a scout.) Harry suggested that we might be able to cook the hot dogs on the engine block. I suggested that the hot water warmed by many hours of motoring was probably running about 180 degrees. I also thought maybe one of Virago’s two oil lamps could be pressed into use. I don’t know why no one suggested a camp fire. As we discussed this dilemma, the one non-scout on board entered the deliberations.</p> <p>Marj had been sound asleep, but awakened to the diminished sound of the engine in the aft cabin. She instantly leapt to the conclusion that must be a serious engine malfunction. She came out into the main cabin. Knowing better than to jump into a testosterone bathed discussion, she waited to hear the explanation. Upon hearing that the problem was how to cook frozen hot dogs, she thought, “There must be a problem with the inverter or they would just cook them in the microwave oven.” Carefully and with proper deference she asked why we didn’t just use the microwave. </p> <p>Duh! The three scouts gave her a sheepish grin, put the engine in gear, turned on the inverter, and cooked diner. A good laugh and fine dinner was had by all.</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-15691256918087294142011-03-09T09:41:00.001-08:002011-03-09T16:47:35.222-08:00Shelter Bay, Panama<p>Once past the canal, we motored to Shelter Bay on the West side of Limon Bay of  the Caribbean Sea. We past a reminder of that description of the ocean as a cruel mistress.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXe7oFbSB1I/AAAAAAAAA80/JxOsY_TMbTo/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20300%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 300" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="379" alt="Virago Rescue 300" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXe7o5kWP5I/AAAAAAAAA84/G0cjw5lxWjw/Virago%20Rescue%20300_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="505" border="0" /></a></p> <p>We found Shelter Bay to be disappointing, but it has one most important feature: location. It is not in Colon--a city with one of the worse reputations for street crime we have encountered. Shelter Bay is technically in Cristobal and felt safe enough. Its principle drawback is that it takes a long cab ride to get across the canal into Colon to provision. Fortunately for us we had provisioned at Balboa on the Pacific side of the canal. We met Tina McBride’s Caribbean side representative nick named Dracula and dropped off our line handlers there. </p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXe7pVuBHvI/AAAAAAAAA88/r__7_1xUOPc/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20301%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 301" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="392" alt="Virago Rescue 301" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXe7pzmYIXI/AAAAAAAAA9A/mk2d0DF5k3I/Virago%20Rescue%20301_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="521" border="0" /></a></p> <p>The marina itself is modern, clean, and well run. It has a small restaurant, a modest chandlery, and a travel lift. It would be a good place to keep a boat South of the Atlantic hurricane zone for the summer. Just don’t expect to find much of the cruising life. </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXgfoPLLxDI/AAAAAAAAA9k/7zHjCFDy1JQ/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20380%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 380" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="305" alt="Virago Rescue 380" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRlGzydDeRgqrdzAiaepnHe0a-h7uZsRW6x52KjSPynPgaBXHVCJseNKvpEvp1MKjU3_XntaggcR8VFeVQQ3UmK35akGY3svdz1v2Hd2wBrAfTaZHD2QtPaRUzgf29pDLIFhcyOPrB2bMR/?imgmax=800" width="539" border="0" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXe7qgBhfRI/AAAAAAAAA9E/_2Pd4_rOKLU/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20298%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 298" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="404" alt="Virago Rescue 298" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXe7sDZ__FI/AAAAAAAAA9I/2Zr4N3k2yac/Virago%20Rescue%20298_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="537" border="0" /></a></p> <p>As it turns out one of our crew John Eichinger had visited the site when it was Fort Sherman. He was a midshipman at the Naval Academy on his sophomore year summer cruise. When we met up with Paul Cahill later in Bocas we learned that he had taken his tropical warfare training at Fort Sherman as preparation for a tour with the Special Forces in Vietnam. Small world ain’t it? We stayed for two nights and left without regrets.</p> <p>  <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIsWc_cmoojLpOP1eecT8wUKrqFNwxThw-GecJoWa4lKNpmtocfFcjojhyQ1HecstZ_ssfzwHPbjSvRKYP0QkfCWfe6dQKAHxrfYSgGGk4M1ygrsfB_vBEVPyLielVveHsfW6ZLI9fovyN/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20404%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 404" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="309" alt="Virago Rescue 404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv43iTfs88hhfH0LO1xUA946XsRc1RSwEk-2hsIFJKcs70ArvUtBOEnzysoTsXIm4S2iaNI70iu0UVX_WCVMNY1VCSDIGhDtwRZo8dhv56vibv3U1FZ2Q-8Ir3MggcspBPano6BHg1a_E1/?imgmax=800" width="546" border="0" /></a></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-57339798229568560652011-03-08T18:00:00.001-08:002011-03-09T09:16:10.758-08:00Panama Canal Transit: How it Works<p>The Panama Canal was built by the American Government (not the Army Corps of Engineers) in the years 1903 through 1914. After much debate about the merits of a sea level canal versus a lock canal, it was decided by a close vote in the US Senate to build the canal with locks. </p> <p>Besides the ditch itself, there are seven major constructions: four dams and three sets of locks. The dams create lakes that supply the water and electricity for the canal. The central lake Gatun is about eighty feet higher than sea level. There are six pairs of locks: three (one at Miraflores, two at Pedro Miguel) on the Pacific Ocean side and three (at Gatun) on the Caribbean Sea side.  The locks do the heavy lifting using water from the lake and the lake surface itself is the canal for more than one half of the length of the canal.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXDnbMQpWqujGYPMucRxkELUBqrhKOLKEdyMQsbzWDalC1jZs7-io7UspEg6AFqsl981vuLsToQqN-pL3jFtPy_hTXEv4OdlVAojkUHX_Dq9L5uN3cY62nrULwLwbCKCpVKHhCzZk8FrD4/s1600-h/image%5B8%5D.png"><img title="image" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="625" alt="image" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2I8QtNkl8P2abl9QBm_mkRj8SflhCOkJOQnCDKKVbduzXYxJFef-9CilybOPsxOn5LzsdPkFsZ6fgnLbMAxH7vbxcl0rJnG-kie1V2a1r7l-ocYPlThKpYihc8rr_fLbZfH3BB9v_udh/?imgmax=800" width="574" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>The operation is simplicity itself. The boat passes at sea level into the first lock through a set of open gates. Once the vessel(s) is secured to the side walls, the gate closes behind and about twenty five feet of water are allowed into the lock. Once the boat has risen with the water, a gate ahead opens and the vessel motors (or in the case of  large ships is towed) ahead into the next lock. Once three locks have lifted the vessel to the level of Gatun Lake, it motors for about thirty two miles to the set of three locks that will lower it back to sea level. In these locks the water is drained out into the lower level lock or finally the ocean.</p> <p>The locks are built in pairs so the canal can support two way traffic at once. A very simple system is used to indicate to vessels which of the pair to enter or to wait. There is a semaphore, a large arrow that points to the left channel, the right channel, or straight down meaning wait.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbe8hZjLvI/AAAAAAAAA5c/kzLFc_jTVrI/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20176%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 176" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="426" alt="Virago Rescue 176" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZHzGtB13hN8R659Yv-9wHTqiQi0aF-3nNDx2QlkjK5k854Tw5C1wPimNDPmTdvw9asrIXkFWjUBGAhukttxLlw48w1xq8bWMhzrn37pwojeHG1HjCXLztjK3VXPJjomisRvfuf-tbDpRL/?imgmax=800" width="566" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>As we approached, we saw a ship ahead about twenty five feet above our level in the next lock. We also saw the USS Florikan, its tugs, a lone tug, and the sport fisher that would accompany us for our entire transit.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbe92n1ihI/AAAAAAAAA5k/6_plNDo4iH4/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20175%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 175" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="424" alt="Virago Rescue 175" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbe-W2v3PI/AAAAAAAAA5o/xzhNnfsWoHw/Virago%20Rescue%20175_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="566" border="0" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbe-zmf--I/AAAAAAAAA5s/VDjo3GJVVNQ/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20209%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 209" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="426" alt="Virago Rescue 209" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX1NvG0N8Ggmmv9roCEd72sJZB2EYDJKJNCXzX0OGLoq6cpBEODLdMM4ldCk1bz2ZsPcSZuocMfP9kfS6KhcuIwVjjtDUH5sHug9swLqkBFA45ujpm4LCqeILyNwaU9I0qMpprI27loj6t/?imgmax=800" width="566" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>We side tied to the sport fisher for each lift of lower in a lock and untied so we could all motor ahead separately.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbe_xMU7UI/AAAAAAAAA50/ULgECVPG6zM/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20025%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 025" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="319" alt="Virago Rescue 025" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfAJR_XTI/AAAAAAAAA54/ESF9EFtPOqc/Virago%20Rescue%20025_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="565" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>A we entered we passed gates folded back into the sides of the canal. Remember these gates are nearly one hundred years old.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfApY9qpI/AAAAAAAAA58/9lhh_qGjiWs/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20031%5B7%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 031" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="323" alt="Virago Rescue 031" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfBMX4uDI/AAAAAAAAA6A/XRvSmXryAbI/Virago%20Rescue%20031_thumb%5B5%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="569" border="0" /></a></p> <p>Once Panama took over the canal they made some upgrades including replacing the old bull gear and connecting rod mechanism for opening and closing the gates with a modern hydraulic piston.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfBkoiTwI/AAAAAAAAA6E/rQefuTl47B4/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20117%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 117" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="429" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 117" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfCLQhNeI/AAAAAAAAA6I/vLJmTJpsEus/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20117_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="570" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>As we entered the first lock we were behind the USS Florikan and its tug. We were side tied to a sport fisher that was tied to a tug that was tied to the side wall. The good news for us was that we didn’t even need to tie to the starboard wall at all. The motive power for the Florikan was mostly provided by the “mules” shown on the both walls. These small locomotives keep the vessel off the side walls as well as pulling it through.<a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfCrWs2MI/AAAAAAAAA6M/_-2Xa05xBXM/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20121%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 121" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="431" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 121" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7bs3omMO89XqgUP_0KQhLHYy10MYuGKiSw49F2FPRYw40S86k6Qq5yLezYf_UiruD9ReHCFK59DOIJjDNdj5z4MFB7QdvZXEttgyeSrvbO2eWfT9M5yEC_pv75felyUnWigi7qHmHoUPr/?imgmax=800" width="573" border="0" /></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfDo_lHII/AAAAAAAAA6U/D1FHKS280Pc/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20122%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 122" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="432" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 122" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfEHYIw7I/AAAAAAAAA6Y/KshPgyk8dxA/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20122_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="574" border="0" /></a>  How big a ship can the canal accommodate? There is a measure called Panamax meaning that a ship must fit into the 1,000 foot long 110 foot wide locks. How big is that? Here we see one passing us going the other way.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbg5zjVRlI/AAAAAAAAA8s/XR4BSyubufU/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20095%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 095" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="431" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 095" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbg6dswOvI/AAAAAAAAA8w/KAUJOzQTs4Q/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20095_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="573" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>After we were lifted we moved forward and the gates formally ahead of us now closed behind us and workers can cross using the gates as a bridge.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfFQJbZ0I/AAAAAAAAA6c/ICcbZwrddDk/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20189%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 189" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue 189" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfFp9TKGI/AAAAAAAAA6g/ATOqzNPR0Jg/Virago%20Rescue%20189_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="282" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfF84bS7I/AAAAAAAAA6k/DU29l6O5ju4/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20190%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 190" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Virago Rescue 190" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfGOZFRVI/AAAAAAAAA6o/8ie3QjLJVxM/Virago%20Rescue%20190_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfGrgU8DI/AAAAAAAAA6s/xV7WN8AKdRo/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20191%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 191" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="217" alt="Virago Rescue 191" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfGxqkb_I/AAAAAAAAA6w/aGpa5Ye0R64/Virago%20Rescue%20191_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="287" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfHvWUMII/AAAAAAAAA60/PLpPwX48Td0/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20192%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 192" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue 192" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfH9CNFHI/AAAAAAAAA64/ozwcwo71zx8/Virago%20Rescue%20192_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a>  </p> <p>There are always spectators, but I didn’t see any score cards.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij8eqFr6fwQLoVNDRQPcaQzKUDbsk6roISGQD7MuSD8oeLIpauu8-UN1pfiq7R2QONkHW__yw2zxie4pQWOGt925eq-T71m7b3t2o4SaNIoSXNWG27G7FfDmaB3pVEmhZrEF1ZYxVP40n2/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20266%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 266" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="215" alt="Virago Rescue 266" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfIpLdvhI/AAAAAAAAA7A/ZmLzCi3QpK0/Virago%20Rescue%20266_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfJB9pMeI/AAAAAAAAA7E/n6UR-Hqr0CE/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20186%5B7%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 186" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue 186" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfJeItmsI/AAAAAAAAA7I/apcgD_Qqcd8/Virago%20Rescue%20186_thumb%5B5%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a></p> <p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5Gcv0Zr6ZC3UUn13lHGQSe0nWLeYqhCc-Gtw9XeE3XyhZaVB0e8Vne4GAyUTuQm6G2U7RqB9c070l_9sY3vdHGQf5-i8DOCMaSJK8VWVjk-XRn3Vz85A9JBafq2dta9F5W8w3chc3Rs3s/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20035%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 035" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="324" alt="Virago Rescue 035" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfKUHjt7I/AAAAAAAAA7Q/kp__VihE0g8/Virago%20Rescue%20035_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="573" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>Once through the Miraflores and Pedro Miguel locks we motored out onto Gatun Lake for thirty two miles of smooth motoring. We passed under the Centennial Bridge and through Galliard Cut made famous as the bane of the French canal effort due to its frequent landslides. </p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSVSUj20FEc77smm9wK2xEMWk-edEYzrV_ndK2wv7mRaDMI6f8l3aASLUrux3uB_xLVG56yiYlzt3Kn9xS1ZgX2x3u41bndisdM1ZoFIo0wgLyWfzNAc2ItYkJuCyeI9Xdiu5wNewkFxf7/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20228%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 228" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="436" alt="Virago Rescue 228" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfLL3Lb_I/AAAAAAAAA7Y/gHU5ft7nyEA/Virago%20Rescue%20228_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="580" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>The former Calebra (Snake) hill now looks like a solid stepped pyramid.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfLoxvFaI/AAAAAAAAA7c/QY9PMq5nmLs/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20083%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 083" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="436" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 083" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfMPWUjzI/AAAAAAAAA7g/lJYm-ynWHr8/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20083_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="579" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>Panama is in the tropics and lake shore is heavily vegetated and dotted with small light houses and range markers.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfMj17m5I/AAAAAAAAA7k/oNGSmy8rQU0/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20239%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 239" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="430" alt="Virago Rescue 239" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfNOKrW9I/AAAAAAAAA7o/5iWAusY7Rio/Virago%20Rescue%20239_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="573" border="0" /></a></p> <p> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfNiYvIVI/AAAAAAAAA7s/6rn-BNzYVZ4/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20084%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 084" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 084" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNcbXmv1MmNc-dK3Ld8YiTSA_JthZq30JLefz2Ceg_Y65HXkHV8gRqvz4jtx62kWFzfRB7OwoUtt-on99PR-I7WuHF5tGy3T970J59329EFN5_unyClgOIBB4EvfT_GUkhPKwuyG_733R-/?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfORkXCUI/AAAAAAAAA70/8FGI19iiA0U/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20098%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 098" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 098" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjz9nj7tYQQWmxEj2WYpO9owNjXq6a_EPvOzcZoBwokYTX6iWiDexVtFcLn4tTrDEDP271eWWnBeUAaWGs3MJdu_gmhcTU8mUifvAZ2JRs5ZqYrk1vCSjZO20ivgytTYIQvKahDui3WwV_a/?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a></p> <p>One rubber necking hazard on the canal is the giant crane named Titan. It was a war reparation from Germany after World War II and spent many years at the port of Long Beach. It is currently used to remove gates for repair. It certainly is overly photogenic.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn6YVmN4S-9fCx-YglyvTb2lXOBn5IpUPHW8bmcxDz0VS-E-PQT1t2O9j-RpR7gtT78l5iYogDYOBNnkRf2dR7Koev2dF02ASAglqV_E4smcIg9ak95fyj5TaSCgReJ_nvFci4y-gCqMpb/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20091%5B8%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 091" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="431" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 091" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfPpLzA3I/AAAAAAAAA8A/FdyQW0nZgpA/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20091_thumb%5B6%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="572" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>We crossed Gatun Lake at the requested eight knots, but had to wait about an hour for the “dead tow” USS Florikan to catch up. As we went down through the Gatun locks we were up front with the USS Florikan behind us. Here you see the double gates installed to conserve the Gatun Lake water in case a run away ship should deform one of the gates.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfQYREEEI/AAAAAAAAA8E/2ue1SvuzMqs/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20260%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 260" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="212" alt="Virago Rescue 260" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfQ9Cl2YI/AAAAAAAAA8I/KwmAoFDC3Wg/Virago%20Rescue%20260_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfRWT-UwI/AAAAAAAAA8M/1VQ4wWuYJvw/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20256%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 256" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="215" alt="Virago Rescue 256" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfRzrdT-I/AAAAAAAAA8Q/CUzsP25mgq4/Virago%20Rescue%20256_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfSSp0rFI/AAAAAAAAA8U/wtts4xVQXYk/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20258%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 258" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="212" alt="Virago Rescue 258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifN528d_biWD4WDQbh7YOueVBuBmK_3Xe2FAfj51j1trKJkoSMtDeI2X6OX2S4wOgj9EV8FuaATj35YGnOgseXVras-1oLQ5ntD7zA554C-uuQX_8prvrHzzUtsvqIyp-_Vd5qpFVtr0Lx/?imgmax=800" width="281" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfTCincMI/AAAAAAAAA8c/m_RfhHNl3MI/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20259%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 259" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue 259" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfTsGvUjI/AAAAAAAAA8g/7AUMawWL_Z4/Virago%20Rescue%20259_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="284" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>Free at last! Free at last! We see loading cranes at Colon harbor at Caribbean sea level.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXbfUY1X7OI/AAAAAAAAA8k/YLndDYU9FNQ/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20288%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 288" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="430" alt="Virago Rescue 288" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl2ru5Hby4TW4NVAMt_Oh-nzo-8nONV-wZGwvW7Qt0wZKYa98WEBScYEv5S-6IkMTBBFjeqaaTByQpPduy10X6BerWCxzo0ZNQ0pOHJhd3k2OgPwUSxoEmTrEeakKWRcZVgyULT8S19FIc/?imgmax=800" width="572" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>For more about the canal and its history follow this link <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_the_Panama_Canal" target="_blank">Panama Canal</a>.</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-80664778131179087722011-03-08T15:14:00.001-08:002011-03-08T15:14:31.847-08:00Panama Canal Transit: USS Florikan<p>In our transit we had a large lockmate, the USS Florikan a decommissioned submarine rescue ship. Here is a brief description from the Alameda Sun newspaper.</p> <blockquote> <p>She was launched in June, 1942 by Moore Dry Dock Co., a shipyard once located in Oakland, across the estuary from Bay Ship & Yacht's present shipyard in Alameda. During World War II, the Florikan served at Pearl Harbor, Midway and Kiska, Alaska. </p> <p>She has a displacement of 1,780 long tons, a length of 251 feet, a beam of 42 feet, and a draft of 14 feet, 3 inches. </p> </blockquote> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXa4Rla6yLI/AAAAAAAAA40/_7AXIFw4a7E/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20049%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 049" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="314" alt="Virago Rescue 049" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXa4SGfFFpI/AAAAAAAAA44/dtBs45gr26g/Virago%20Rescue%20049_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="556" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>She had spent about twenty years in the Reserve Fleet at Suisin Bay up river from San Francisco. Several local organizations sued the federal government claiming that the seventy one ships there were a significant source of heavy metal pollution to San Francisco Bay. Under the settlement reached at trial the federal government has begun removing the least valuable of these. There being no authorized ship deconstruction facilities on the West Coast, the Florikan was sold for about $925,000 to a company from Brownsville, Texas. She was being towed over 5,000 miles at a cost to tax payers over $1,000,000 when we say her. In the canal she was called a “dead tow” meaning that she had no onboard power and had to be towed and pushed by from one to three tugs.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi37JiY2oSYlWxjY78ruegNuLRE_UcTnL9q06SiJnVarNLU9jepX6BLsAPMN_yfm5zTmMBQFFsgH3QG4AqX1TreJEY8jIYE36s7IGDPpX-S4faVVafXgLQnV3InLwSME2Z7LtOM-YeuirEI/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20050%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 050" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="325" alt="Virago Rescue 050" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXa4Tb1XafI/AAAAAAAAA5A/CxN5MeQq6H8/Virago%20Rescue%20050_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="574" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>She proceeded us through the up locks and followed us through the down locks.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXa4T5l6EgI/AAAAAAAAA5E/M8s1LPO9q1U/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20183%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 183" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="214" alt="Virago Rescue 183" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvXajtlYp6ekHPJsGKWom_ZpI0eAHED2iecSkNE0hbYC2lW1NFncDn3JXh2j9WmDhrhU7UgKuIxBcxSxuAVRox5E4Vp4cvUqMzfpWhi7P7BO8X8wAxi5OcUnBmKZAc5oRsqWBO61Q4Ahyf/?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXa4VmV6YJI/AAAAAAAAA5M/uPCY5Kqk_qg/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20113%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 113" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="215" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 113" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXa4V-hkTPI/AAAAAAAAA5Q/tQjo7fU5YUs/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20113_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="285" border="0" /></a></p> <p>For more information on the Florikan, follow these links:  <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USS_Florikan_%28ASR-9%29" target="_blank">USS Florikcan</a>,</p> <p><a title="http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid823619053?bctid=32664765001" href="http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid823619053?bctid=32664765001">http://link.brightcove.com/services/player/bcpid823619053?bctid=32664765001</a></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-76769091041700758202011-03-08T13:32:00.001-08:002011-03-08T13:32:59.206-08:00Panama Canal Transit: Crew<p>Virago’s trip from Puntarenas, through the Panama Canal, and on to Bocas del Toro, Panama was crewed by four: Paul Goss, Marjorie Goss, Harry Reppert, and John Eichinger. (Although not quite crew, Virago’s mascot Salty was also present as always.)</p> <h3>Paul, Marj, and Salty in a Lock of the Panama Canal</h3> <h3></h3> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXagVSo8Z9I/AAAAAAAAA4c/Uyn37_Rp6Kk/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20099%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 099" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="331" alt="Virago Rescue 099" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXagV090wyI/AAAAAAAAA4g/-08YBBv8u1g/Virago%20Rescue%20099_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="585" border="0" /></a> </p> <h3>Harry Reppert at Centennial Bridge Over the Panama Canal</h3> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4vgns1i_h712KrzHkMXM1tYp0Mhf4aouULR_rj7hWX-GadwF4AOgu6WJ_yNLCNcbQvhSeWfvoKY9-e2HGOkWtvKFUZRvtlYmrKwIh6Ak2oCW9-jTWtv2V4TM01m80IL5nfCmobpmS6rKR/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20053%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 053" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="334" alt="Virago Rescue 053" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXagWhIX4OI/AAAAAAAAA4o/5i58McouXGw/Virago%20Rescue%20053_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="590" border="0" /></a></p> <h3>John Eichinger at Centennial Bridge Over the Panama Canal</h3> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXagXH_CbdI/AAAAAAAAA4s/UiconZFS-lc/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20225%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 225" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="445" alt="Virago Rescue 225" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXagXmOuuLI/AAAAAAAAA4w/K_AvpLuMip8/Virago%20Rescue%20225_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="592" border="0" /></a></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-34939939790560411262011-03-08T13:02:00.001-08:002011-03-08T13:02:21.335-08:00Panama Canal Transit: What’s it Like? Brutal Elegance<p></p> <p>The second most asked question people have about Virago’s September 2010 transit of the Panama Canal is: “What’s it like?” (Philosophical types will of course be reminded of Ernest Nagel’s 1974 paper “What is it like to be a bat?” where he argued that consciousness always has an irreducible subjective component beyond objective description.) I intend in this post just to present some pictures that re-evoke my <strong>emotional </strong>responses to the passage. </p> <p>First, there was just the <strong>grandeur</strong> of the canal so well described in the book “The Path Between the Seas” by David McCullough that we had read to prepare for the transit. Here we approach the Peace Bridge built in 1927 to rejoined the country sundered by the Panama Canal in 1914.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiluD1errcuMH4Aic0rUcz7muNosqhTaZ6ByEr68sAq5kJDIrAvJP_rovwzQKQ8EtzuuuevEdQJWcv8Ly_aw6bMglYIxfAYye9CGnrDJCKgigdbcBeURbP5Ud-6D4U9mN-nXhzYv610lPdB/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20169%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 169" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="430" alt="Virago Rescue 169" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZSP5oCXI/AAAAAAAAA3w/sx_oL9Lkwm8/Virago%20Rescue%20169_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="572" border="0" /></a></p> <p>When we first saw the locks, the <strong>elegance </strong>of the canal became apparent when we saw a sea going ship just ahead of us floating twenty five feet above our water level.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZSlX47jI/AAAAAAAAA30/oPTsXgOKsKQ/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20023%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 023" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="321" alt="Virago Rescue 023" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZTKiPRWI/AAAAAAAAA34/r-bTp_JvoS8/Virago%20Rescue%20023_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="569" border="0" /></a></p> <p>As we entered the first locks, the <strong>busyness</strong> of the canal that has taken over 960,000 vessels from one sea to the other in its nearly one hundred history came home to us as we shared a lock with one ship, two tugs, and one sport fisher.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZTiFIYpI/AAAAAAAAA38/qA7rLIkd7qo/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20026%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 026" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="321" alt="Virago Rescue 026" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZUqOuQII/AAAAAAAAA4A/-7PwYhFRFng/Virago%20Rescue%20026_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="568" border="0" /></a> </p> <p></p> <p></p> <p>Our biggest <strong>worry</strong> was hitting the sides of the locks. The hundred year old concrete and steel gates designed to withstand far tougher vessels than our glass reinforced plastic sailboat are <strong>brutal</strong>.</p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj22V3nAwAfDAR11TWqRYFMskRxNjPSzXReVvhKNWmjGLklipKI546JeSpVqeB22bpAAG5VN6V6YdsN609a1H3wblEa8nSzu7BvEf_bNqYxuaSWgsQB5oTEKpgjVa8KGyLwEtWF09h_srdt/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20028%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 028" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="225" alt="Virago Rescue 028" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZVQuoIwI/AAAAAAAAA4I/_uTZYS06DLE/Virago%20Rescue%20028_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="397" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZVh6pxwI/AAAAAAAAA4M/9B7aYenZSWo/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20050%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 050" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="226" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 050" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZV5dFk1I/AAAAAAAAA4Q/jVEvXe-PPPg/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20050_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="170" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>We took <strong>satisfaction</strong> in the fact that Virago could easily maintain the required eight knot official speed for transit in one day and that her thruster improves her maneuverability in tight spots. Here we see her churning he brown water from Lake Gatun that floats all the boats through the canal.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZWhNjmnI/AAAAAAAAA4U/nICKazglyZE/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20094%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 094" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="436" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 094" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXaZXIjKOeI/AAAAAAAAA4Y/D0g-1hBrwE8/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20094_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="580" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>As I look back I am <strong>grateful </strong>for my crew, my advisor, my line handlers, the operators of the canal, and for those who bequeathed this wonder of the world to us today.</p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-28408822507965601392011-03-06T16:25:00.001-08:002011-03-09T16:20:29.294-08:00Panama Canal Transit: What Does it Cost?<p>Whenever I tell people that Virago transited the Panama Canal in early September of 2010 they have two basic questions. The first question is: “What does it cost?” As with so many questions, the answer is: “It depends.”  It depends upon the size of your boat and how many of the  formalities you choose to do yourself. The short answer for Virago is: “About $2,000.” Here’s how the formal part worked for us.</p> <p>In a typical visit to a foreign country there are five government agencies that must be dealt with: immigration, customs, health, agriculture, and ports. In a transit of the Panama Canal there are several more: fumigation, the Panama Canal Authority (ACP), and the measurer. This usually involves either visits to multiple far-flung offices or visits by multiple government officials. We chose to hire an agent named Tina McBride to manage the process for us. In the following pictures you see the ACP official with the captain and then Tina with the ACP official and with three of the other officials. </p> <p> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3KutuctEj9KU0Ju1en3KhDWM5PrGUApDkqs27HwAXgoqhRDkv-4HD-O6Qb1JaN0T7Euk-0bWacrC90gUT-_Vf6-SZYuJezXxyqZUR_SHi3yPVvud3zbLMh9I7J9FRgTztRTkgLtNL0XQR/s1600-h/We%20Check%20Into%20The%20Canal%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="We Check Into The Canal" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="325" alt="We Check Into The Canal" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQlye8j29I/AAAAAAAAA2o/MnS4iwB4mg4/We%20Check%20Into%20The%20Canal_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="576" border="0" /></a>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQlzBbLZlI/AAAAAAAAA2s/9WssG06553k/s1600-h/Our%20Agent%20Tina%20McBride%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Our Agent Tina McBride" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="167" alt="Our Agent Tina McBride" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOnGjMK3RouBp1MTM3A4vYmVFymftvJbjAYOAMV9Lp7iIpfQj9wIV5X5-oSzR5IgcqsdMyeD3Gm3AqR5q1hu0HZSVCT2RpmUFN6ZrCF01HGq3fFS3Y9xBWvSu3j2I0s_rxYxfQtmh8TbJd/?imgmax=800" width="293" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl0EmgdqI/AAAAAAAAA20/OAW8mbysGKs/s1600-h/Customs%2C%20Imigration%2C%20Health%20Checkin%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Customs, Imigration, Health Checkin" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="163" alt="Customs, Imigration, Health Checkin" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl0fAjnNI/AAAAAAAAA24/NLrd-CkDFWE/Customs%2C%20Imigration%2C%20Health%20Checkin_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="286" border="0" /></a></p> <h2></h2> <h2></h2> <h2>Costs: $2,000</h2> <ol> <li>Each boat that passes through the canal is required to have an official registration showing that it has been measured (cost $50). </li> <li>Since Virago measured in at under 50 feet, her actual transit cost just over $500. </li> <li>For the services that we selected, Tina McBride’s fee was just under $500. </li> <li>Panama charges $180 for a cruising permit good for one year. </li> <li>The other inspections plus the checkin to Balboa (Pacific side port) and the checkout from Colon (Caribbean side port) came to another $500. </li> <li>Since a boat needs four line handlers as well as the captain, we hired two line handlers who brought the required 110 foot lines and the tires to be used as fenders: cost nearly $200. </li> </ol> <h2>What You Get for Your Money</h2> <p>Besides handling the coming and going of the various officials, Tina got us scheduled to transit on Tuesday, September 2nd even though we had arrived at Flamenco Marina on Sunday, August 31st. We also were not required to post an $800 bond against our having to spend the night on the canal due to slow speed or mechanical difficulties. </p> <p>We picked up our two line handlers with the lines and fenders at the Flamenco Marina. Once again, be sure to notice the high pilings necessitated by the 14 foot tidal range on the Pacific side of the canal. All boats transiting the canal need to have either a pilot (on large ships) or an advisor (on smaller vessels). We picked up our advisor off a pilot boat near the entrance of the canal.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl05upmjI/AAAAAAAAA28/6RWGGyKdwp4/s1600-h/We%20Pick%20Line%20Handlers%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="We Pick Line Handlers" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="159" alt="We Pick Line Handlers" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl1cHGe4I/AAAAAAAAA3A/_1c2xj59eeo/We%20Pick%20Line%20Handlers_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="280" border="0" /></a>  <a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXgXvb36KmI/AAAAAAAAA9c/CQYGjImWs_k/s1600-h/WePickUpOurAdvisor3.jpg"><img title="We Pick Up Our Advisor" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="158" alt="We Pick Up Our Advisor" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl2LtRCtI/AAAAAAAAA3I/oDP1UXt9ssQ/We%20Pick%20Up%20Our%20Advisor_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="278" border="0" /></a></p> <p>Once on the boat, the advisor who is an employee of the ACP directs every movement of the boat and coordinates with any other traffic on the day’s schedule.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl2Zq3TxI/AAAAAAAAA3M/qZ9eAd1UAXY/s1600-h/Our%20Advisor%20Advising%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Our Advisor Advising" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="182" alt="Our Advisor Advising" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl22HyN2I/AAAAAAAAA3Q/xJ3eBk42ByU/Our%20Advisor%20Advising_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="321" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl3W1LewI/AAAAAAAAA3U/NLiQqlzqXI8/s1600-h/Our%20Advisor%20Checks%20Canal%20Traffic%5B2%5D.jpg"><img title="Our Advisor Checks Canal Traffic" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="184" alt="Our Advisor Checks Canal Traffic" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl3uh2tuI/AAAAAAAAA3Y/wddlx-Jhmfo/Our%20Advisor%20Checks%20Canal%20Traffic_thumb.jpg?imgmax=800" width="244" border="0" /></a></p> <p>Once the vessel is through the canal, the advisor is taken off by another pilot boat and the line handlers get off at Shelter Bay Marina on the Caribbean side of the canal.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl4L0Xy7I/AAAAAAAAA3c/JRLP5F9UyFQ/s1600-h/We%20Drop%20Off%20Our%20Advisor%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="We Drop Off Our Advisor" style="border-top-width: 0px; display: inline; border-left-width: 0px; border-bottom-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px" height="324" alt="We Drop Off Our Advisor" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXQl4ekW97I/AAAAAAAAA3g/XuuTo_ubh00/We%20Drop%20Off%20Our%20Advisor_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="574" border="0" /></a> </p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXgXvb36KmI/AAAAAAAAA9g/iig1w5p2_Rc/s1600-h/WePickUpOurAdvisor2.jpg"></a></p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXgXvb36KmI/AAAAAAAAA9g/iig1w5p2_Rc/s1600-h/WePickUpOurAdvisor2.jpg"> </a>Here’s Dracula. He works for Tina McBride and handled all the checkouts from Cristobal on the Caribbean side as well as providing transportation for the line handlers.</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TXgX_5dMqQI/AAAAAAAAA9U/6GYzKLJZCwY/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20379%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 379" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="327" alt="Virago Rescue 379" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf3vrDRQK6JHQ7kW4ecrc56A4G9l0Y9lUP7BnVXFOftegJKICAUu4UNM_mc-c_d5ShH_s6CnjJ_xVTorA8Vj1thJHvS1JKhKDR0UhtQ7b69LsVsnZc71RooUAE-0v_5tTEyPMd3CJVClX8/?imgmax=800" width="578" border="0" /></a></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5807787890350406315.post-73151603428242850732011-02-27T06:27:00.001-08:002011-02-27T06:27:35.585-08:00Escape from Costa Rica<h2>Arrival</h2> <p>In August of 2010 we headed back to the Costa Rica Yacht Club to rescue Virago. As I pointed out in a earlier post we had overstayed our welcome by exceeding the limits of our Costa Rica cruising permit. It was hardly the crime of the new century, but it seemed prudent to remove any threat of empounding our boat or charging us to import it to Costa Rica. Our local CR attorney suggested that we might have to pay a fine of $500, but we were not comfortable that would be the total bill if we left Virago at the CRYC for months more.</p> <p> </p> <p>Virago had been on the hard and was in fine condition with the exception of mildew as seen in the following pictures. Fortunately, it was confined to surfaces that had been wetted with either salt water or sweat. Thing kept dry including wash back from the laundry without having been worn were mildew free, even if they did smell a little musty boatish. </p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDeQWs5o3SUURTc4uUkrfJFmsDmcRSX1zNQPG2iC6tgdnDHUPF-OeauiwP3uxMIhy557pRw2P7tgsyMm-KP4WItdB14k1EtVPPqu1Fjt4xhuRF-LWUHrPrg3U79cg30Wf1jV9TBC_2Wklo/s1600-h/Mildew%20On%20Wall%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Mildew On Wall" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="366" alt="Mildew On Wall" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpaFLdin7I/AAAAAAAAA0k/RVFeSbSVA_0/Mildew%20On%20Wall_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="276" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpaFy5zhGI/AAAAAAAAA0s/9cuPbAqxq7M/s1600-h/Mildew%20on%20Floor%20Mat%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Mildew on Floor Mat" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="366" alt="Mildew on Floor Mat" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpaO1cz3nI/AAAAAAAAA0w/gdrNKiX86ww/Mildew%20on%20Floor%20Mat_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="276" border="0" /></a>  </p> <p>The crew consisted of Marjorie Goss, John Eichinger, Harry Reppert and I. We stayed a few days at the CRYC’s motel. We rated it a little lower than a Motel 6, but serviceable for crew’s quarters while cleaning a mildewed boat. Here are some final shots of the CRYC and crew.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpaWjQUdBI/AAAAAAAAA00/Fmm8GU8x5Jw/s1600-h/Costa%20Rica%20Yacht%20Club%20Gate%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Costa Rica Yacht Club Gate" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="199" alt="Costa Rica Yacht Club Gate" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpaX1tcyuI/AAAAAAAAA04/QQ9AeDWZU10/Costa%20Rica%20Yacht%20Club%20Gate_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="295" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpacfRtMLI/AAAAAAAAA08/K_rM8boqkoQ/s1600-h/Costa%20Rica%20Yacht%20Club%20Motel%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Costa Rica Yacht Club Motel" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="205" alt="Costa Rica Yacht Club Motel" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMV9Cig7Z5S9m-Ush5vRKdc2Uukwz28ZpUqMzLHedBJSAxbgZoDsYqn1PNUob-VAtKSFHNwE8wMdfuTfISmcXncwfYeCGxV9mF5YCd9PvysJSJczcBrFTyxqbHeZJ8tSLiGBZuHn3E0KrG/?imgmax=800" width="271" border="0" /></a>  </p> <p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7Rc0DHZtifJggD7oyiiNC0mlwukgTR4U3438daFgk0ZHbloQI7ycZW3Z-Q8tQ1Iyp9vXy-amlaZlUoj43cWxEX5I_pLScBh1IVhgNL1tDxDgtT8S91S1KmlLpgwAbQ_HSTJFqltUU4MH8/s1600-h/CRYC%20Captain%20&%20Crew%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="CRYC Captain & Crew" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="252" alt="CRYC Captain & Crew" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpak0uhxdI/AAAAAAAAA1I/lQf9PjCGtq0/CRYC%20Captain%20%26%20Crew_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="190" border="0" /></a> <a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpcDgO6FHI/AAAAAAAAA1M/fl7OAFMCFXs/s1600-h/Costa%20Rica%20Yacht%20Club%20from%20Water%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="Costa Rica Yacht Club from Water" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="251" alt="Costa Rica Yacht Club from Water" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpe--d--wI/AAAAAAAAA1Q/zoOSj_VH7A0/Costa%20Rica%20Yacht%20Club%20from%20Water_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="374" border="0" /></a> </p> <h2>Schedule</h2> <p>I often tell people that I do not have the “cruising gene”—that I am a passage maker at heart. The easiest way to tell the difference is that Virago always has a schedule and makes a reasonable effort to stick to it. I get antsy being in the same place for more than a few days. There seem to be two basic responses from cruisers upon hearing this:</p> <ol> <li>“You’re missing out on so much.” This is a matter of taste and after 4,500 miles on this trip there are very few things that I lament not having seen. My crew understands this and so far have been willing to undertake passages with limited lay overs.</li> <li>“It’s dangerous.” This always puzzles me, since it is boat, crew, and sea conditions that  most effect the degree of danger of a passage. To date I think my crew and I would agree that we have done nothing foolhardy just to make a schedule. I know this can be a great temptation and I count on my very experienced crew to help me guard against rash decisions.</li> </ol> <p>Those points having been made, here is the planning for the trip from the Costa Rica Yacht Club in Puntarenas, Costa Rica and Bocas del Toro, Panama. First the route:</p> <p><a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfANapdgI/AAAAAAAAA1U/Cv282e5JdQ8/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Route%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Route" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="295" alt="Virago Rescue Route" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfAzqPQjI/AAAAAAAAA1Y/muIkznolzIs/Virago%20Rescue%20Route_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="562" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>This route was planned far in advance even if the final date was pulled in due to our cruising permit running out. So as you see we only planned to stop at the Pacific end of the Panama Canal to await our transit, then at the Caribbean end just in case we needed any provisions or repairs, and finally at Bocas del Toro Yacht Club and Marina to wait for the right season to head up to Isla Mujeres. (This marina was recommended by our friends Paul and Tamar.) On the short scale we read the weather from BouyWeather.com and other sources as shown.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfCToTolI/AAAAAAAAA1c/6Jl16lpoIQk/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20002%5B3%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue 002" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="364" alt="Virago Rescue 002" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfEoIIm8I/AAAAAAAAA1g/h_Os2yIPtVs/Virago%20Rescue%20002_thumb%5B1%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="580" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>These charts show the wind at six hour intervals for up to seven days ahead. The body of the little arrows show the direction of the wind while the number of flecks indicates the wind speed in knots. We could see that there would be less than 10 knots of wind predicted for the entire trip and we expected to have to motor most of the six hundred miles. Not fun, but hardly foolhardy.</p> <h2>The Trip to the Canal</h2> <p>Having planned the trip, gathered the crew, launched the boat, provisioned, taken on fuel, and checked the weather we were ready to leave on our motor cruise on August 27th, 2010. (What Bill Eddy would call a Princess Cruise for its lack of wind and waves.)  Here you see the actual punta (point) of Puntarenas (sand point) and John beginning the arduous work of passage making.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfFUm3tVI/AAAAAAAAA1k/5n_bxSkCwBQ/s1600-h/The%20Punta%20of%20Puntarenas%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="The Punta of Puntarenas" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="241" alt="The Punta of Puntarenas" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfGWrJE6I/AAAAAAAAA1o/f0ycdV8GWXU/The%20Punta%20of%20Puntarenas_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="360" border="0" /></a><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfHZejZ0I/AAAAAAAAA1s/R3eQj1FblBE/s1600-h/John%20Asleep%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="John Asleep" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="241" alt="John Asleep" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfH3dO0tI/AAAAAAAAA1w/DJWmnnL2eUg/John%20Asleep_thumb%5B3%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="182" border="0" /></a> </p> <p> Every section of coast has its bad place such as Point Mendocino, Point Conception, Cabo Corrientes, Bahia Tehauntepec, Bahia Papagallo, or in Panama, Punta Mala (Bad Point). Our weather prediction turned out to be accurate and here we see Marj checking the course at the chartplotter.</p> <p> <a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfJ184fRI/AAAAAAAAA10/Bex3Zk-Ue5g/s1600-h/Punta%20Mala%20%26%20Marj%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Punta Mala & Marj" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="310" alt="Punta Mala & Marj" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfKoxRuoI/AAAAAAAAA14/dNgxFeikvVQ/Punta%20Mala%20%26%20Marj_thumb%5B4%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="548" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>In the closeup we see several AIS targets (the little isosceles triangles) and some rain storms (the fuzzy blobs) . Our ship position is shown by the little teardrop shape. The AIS targets as ships sending out their name, position, and course information—we want to avoid them. We want to avoid the rain storms also. We were lucky to travel through on of the great lightning centers of the world without really being caught out in any thunderstorms. All in all, a true Princess Cruise.<a href="http://lh4.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfLXvYKZI/AAAAAAAAA18/qmI48B-3_mg/s1600-h/Punta%20Mala%20on%20Chartplotter%5B6%5D.jpg"><img title="Punta Mala on Chartplotter" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="317" alt="Punta Mala on Chartplotter" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU_m_2OHZoweLBMHX9kirNhDQ4JoFpT-6m5k-KrQ4r4X1KSzwCPWhaG3S0-OHk8jVUui3oCOZFmPgs2B8ayVrj1giyu4WTSMjf6YlbbaEBEugYqnZUfqBLEp-MIRx5eVJ7CKfJX6nUG5vN/?imgmax=800" width="559" border="0" /></a></p> <p>We motored at about 6 knots to conserve fuel and to time our approach to the Panama Canal for dawn. We had decided to take a slip at the Flamenco Marina on the Eastern side of the canal to await our transit date. But first we had to thread our way through the ship traffic on the Pacific side of the canal. The following picture shows the number of AIS targets we could detect. Of course, smaller boats are not required to carry AIS, so we had to watch out for recreational boats and fishing boats as well as true ships.</p> <p><a href="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfNFpKNgI/AAAAAAAAA2E/Y43PGVf731A/s1600-h/Panama%20Canal%20Approach%20AIS%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Panama Canal Approach AIS" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="430" alt="Panama Canal Approach AIS" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq3DqVQe1wzCP3N9orfgwWxU1ZpgRGAZZE_sxqN9LnwjSpdgavb5R_NaIzvl5GmFVCheB0iTW1kt1SdZ4kIbBiwEX3i4z7q9Z8Te-6yFn6YyLRXTanLrYcD9Dny5cQ6fPVKkj8ZjxWAGt3/?imgmax=800" width="572" border="0" /></a> </p> <p>We did arrive safely at Flamenco Marina around dawn on August 31st, 2011 after having spent three nights at sea. One of the amazing things about Flamenco is the tidal range. You can see in the pictures that the dock pilings tower over the boats to allow the floating docks to go with a tidal flow of over 14 feet. This was a particular challenge to the builders of the Panama Canal since the Caribbean side has tides of less than 3 feet. That means that “Sea Level” is not level from one ocean to the other! One of our biggest surprises was the skyline of Panama City sceen behind Virago.</p> <p><a href="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfP949C4I/AAAAAAAAA2M/cNBxoebrsy0/s1600-h/Virago%20Rescue%20Paul%20029%5B5%5D.jpg"><img title="Virago Rescue Paul 029" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="429" alt="Virago Rescue Paul 029" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjif2p3LKhApB7PhpFUHJBcYnyfPZwZUBES76Hty6dNOlsiypwDOUiRuDKVIrnSsaThRYJ8o0tml2gm7AotwRDo2uo860GGWmfGlS429urkvJ4I7zJacMCB5iHTuFcaUVVydy3_gWuQBWD9/?imgmax=800" width="571" border="0" /></a> </p> <h2>Prep for the Next Leg</h2> <p>The usual preparations had to go on for the rest of the trip. Luckily, the trip having been so mild there was no significant damage to be repaired. About all we had to do was get fuel from the local Pemex station since the marina was out of fuel for two more days. John, being the newest crew member got the unpleasant duty of decanting the fuel from the jerry cans into the fuel tanks. He also took the obligatory trip down into the lazarette locker to retrieve and stow rarely needed items.</p> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfTdhunlI/AAAAAAAAA2U/7ye-xgs3aM8/s1600-h/John%20Refueling%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="John Refueling" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="190" alt="John Refueling" src="http://lh6.ggpht.com/_gJuP5BU1DrU/TWpfURqmLCI/AAAAAAAAA2Y/jDZ7gdhhJGo/John%20Refueling_thumb%5B2%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="283" border="0" /></a> <a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgO_BKXlRiJKO_YfGDrmts7Jb_MocNlgMC-dhTZc3Rb5iM-p04t4Am8qHaNRmLSE6xduQqFUJPNzVmI_JA5TqrsiubTXWFriVRv6egh5VepzVBR_49RhBXSJ323jfS23FLwIHuWz3lohyphenhyphenV4/s1600-h/John%20in%20the%20Box%5B4%5D.jpg"><img title="John in the Box" style="border-right: 0px; border-top: 0px; display: inline; border-left: 0px; border-bottom: 0px" height="187" alt="John in the Box" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhHFE9TZV8qRsEmBpUqhbEPsP8Vn22L0KwS2pd4Q7bRHskhyphenhyphenQOJcIG0UPviyMbtkbHHyD8TqS4zoR2P0O4YR7oJWNUBHojkuj0tDajBVfnD5ETt9oHQhYooEVkjtHIRt1_3kRYVb9pW1hW/?imgmax=800" width="278" border="0" /></a></p> Paul and Marj Gosshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01258469960153188818noreply@blogger.com0